Hi all,

Decided to take a job for a 2012 Honda Civic LX 1.8L. Simple oil change turned into so much more...

Bolt did not go back in, wondering if it was over torqued last time or someone tried a heli-coil. Not sure...decided to try a oversize piggyback (car is 200k+ miles, didn't want to spend a whole bunch of work/time on it) and it did not tighten enough to seal.

Considered drilling and tapping along with a couple flushes of cheap oil, but decided to buy a new pan.

Now been working all day on this (WHY do you have to take off the alternator, AC compressor, and motor Mount to just change the oil pan???)

Now, I've spent all day removing that stuff, tried to install new oil pan...doesn't want to line up properly, seems like the oil filter tube?

Does this require a bit of extra force to get in? Torque specs for oil pan bolts is 13 ft lb. I feel like I've applied more force trying to get it to get somewhat flush. I do not want to strip anything or damage the tubes. (I did check, nothing is damaged)

Any ideas?

 

Update: Worked on it the past 2 days.

Day 1: Cleaned & prepped block and oil pan, Grey permatex on oil pan (much easier than applying to block) and got in right position. Used the bolts and tightened down in a cross pattern (didn't follow the book but make sure to do opposites and tighten evenly). Tightened to spec after 1 hour drying. Oil filter tube finally fit into place.

Day 2: Removed oil filter threaded tube and installed in new pan. Installed oil filter, filled and no leaks.

All in all, much bigger job than I was expecting. Never would have expected to have to remove alternator, AC compressor, motor mount to replace oil pan.

 

Man that sucks, after a trip to lube stop 8 years ago on my friends civic so. I used my lisle thread seater kit for Ford spark plug threads. Loaded the cutter tap with bearing grease and did a quick flush with oil. Scwedged the thread in then bought a 14x1.25 oil plug has been perfect for 8 years.