Rear disc brake swap all wheels locking up
So I got my 88 civic swapped the drum brakes got the swing arm and assembly off a crx sir brand new calipers everything was brand new replaced all the bushing.replaced ebrake cables its not them cause it was rolling around before I started the car.got a 4040 prop valve changed the master and the booster and went braided lines and all new pads and rotors pretty much everything but the lines are new.i start it up after sitting and it's rolls once it sits for a minute and warms up they slowly start locking up.no vacuum leaks I went threw it all I did find one and have fixed that issue but this annoy issue with the brakes keeps happening.only thing I haven't tried is backing off that adjuster on the booster.ill admit setting the pin in the master cylinder was a bit over my head but a friend who is a master mechanic did do it.he is the only one who usually works on my cars but ya know life gets busy and you gotta respect the guys personal time so iam tackling it on my own
I did a disc brake swap on my 91 crx hf. Did all that you did less the 4040 proportioning valve. Bleed the brakes. Great pedal. Started the car - no pedal. Went through it again. No pedal on startup. So I bought a tool to measure depth of mc input shaft. Then tried to adjust the pbb to fill the gap between the mc and pbb input shaft. Out of the blue I saw an add from Willwood brakes that they include a metal rod with their mc kits to make up the difference between the pbb shaft and the input to the mc. This little tool looks like and H with a rod up the middle, functioning like a depth gauge. The id of the mc input was 1/2" so I bought a piece of 1/2" of steel. It fit so tight that if I measured wrong would never get it out. Settled for 7/16 rod, maybe 7/16" long (forget exactly). Put that piece into the mc then attached the mc to the pbb. Voila! I have brake pedal and no problems since.
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