Early January I noticed my trunk lid was open and the battery was dead. I charged the battery and it died within a week, replaced it, which also died within a week and have been trying to diagnose the problem since. The only culprit I've identified is 2.6 mv across the Driver Power Window fuse (#28 in the interior fuse box) with the car asleep. I measure anywhere from a 2+ amp draw down to 1.035 amp draw between the negative battery post and disconnected cable, with fuse 28 installed and 0.042 amp to 0.010 amp with fuse 28 removed. Other than the draw on the battery, everything works fine with the fuse in and only the driver power window doesn't work with it out. With the fuse in, I checked to see if the ability to operate the windows for ten minutes after the car has been turned off functions properly and it does; after the ten minutes the windows can't be operated.

I'm wondering if any of you have experienced a battery drain coming from the Driver Power Window circuit?

I was able to remove the door panel and disconnect the driver's window switch and with that switch disconnected and fuse 28 installed, the draw eventually dropped to 0.010 amps. With both the window switch connected and fuse installed, the draw was about 0.9 amps, even as I disconnected the key cylinder switch, trunk lid release switch, power mirrors switch and passenger windows switch. This would obviously lead to thinking that the driver's power window master switch needs to be replaced but I've read on other forums that didn't solve the problem. As I mentioned, other than the draw on the battery, the driver's window master switch operates everything as it should. What I haven't mentioned is the passenger's window switch button will move the window up and down in the auto mode but not in the one touch manual mode.

 

Have you tested the alternator?
You stated that you charged the battery and it died within one week. Was the car driven, and how many trips, start/stop, etc? There are factors that come into play here.
If you are charging the battery, then allowing it to sit for one week and then it is completely dead, then it appears you have a draw somewhere.
Automatically, you assumed that you have a draw somewhere. If the battery is fully charged, and you start the car, drive it daily for 20-30 minutes and it starts fine daily for a week or so, then you are fine.

Pleas provide more detailed information on the driving and starting habits as this is very important.

 

Thank you for replying. I struggled to get a confident reading from the alternator with an amp clamp/meter and it seemed difficult to separate and isolate the wires leading from the alternator to the positive battery terminal to read the draw on them individually. So, since the amperage draw would drop to 0.01 amps with either the driver's power window switch disconnected or its fuse removed, I, rightly or wrongly, ruled out the alternator or anything else not on the driver's power window circuit. I didn't drive the car much and it sat for maybe five days at a time without being started. However, with the driver's power window switch disconnected or its fuse removed the car would start and operate fine, other than not being able to operate the driver's power window. So lack of driving didn't appear to be the issue in this case.

I think it's incorrect for you to say I automatically assumed I had a draw somewhere. I stated in my post that I measured anywhere from a 2+ amp draw down to 1.035 amp draw between the negative battery post and disconnected cable, with fuse 28 installed and 0.042 amp to 0.010 amp with fuse 28 removed.

Last week I replaced the driver's power window switch with a second hand one I ordered on eBay and it seems to have resolved the issue. The draw would settle at 0.010 amps with everything connected and fuse 28 installed. I let the car sit for five days and Tuesday it started and operated fine. So I still don't know if there is any connection between the trunk lid being open, the battery dying and the driver's power window switch causing a parasitic draw but I guess I can consider the draw eliminated now and this case closed.

 

The reason stated, and assuming the draw on the system, as there was not enough information or a detailed timeline of the events or what led to all of this. I am curious how you decided to test the driver's side power window switch. After rereading your thread, I am guessing you started testing out all the areas that could draw off the car, it led you to that area. At least the problem has been fixed. Thanks for the information as this will be helpful to others in the future.