Question about bad transmission/CV joints?
Hello, so long story short, I was working on my 97 Civic HX and it was on jacks. When I lowered it, the driver side on the ttansmission made a pop noise and transmission fluid started leaking. I changed the CV joint seal thinking I had cracked or pinched it. Once I finished, I took it for a drive and it drove well until I came to a stop. When I went forward, I heard a popping nose and then the car wouldn't go forward anymore. There was a grinding noise coming from the drivers side when the clutch was engaged. Even with the transmission in neutral it makes the noise. Took it home and thought the CV joint had broken. However, when I removed it, it seems ok. Further investigation led me to insert my fingers in the output splines where the CV joint goes in, when I spin the passenger side wheel, I can stop the splines on the driver side. This makes me think the differential is shot, but I'm not sure. I've never worked on the transmission, this is new to me. Anyone had something similar happen? Could you give me some ideas what might be wrong? I'm thinking it's either the differential or the input shaft, but I'm not sure. I want to be 100% sure before o start tearing it apart. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Update, so I drained the MTF and found no metal chunks at all. Though maybe it was a badly installed cv axle, so I refilled the transmission and was going to put it back together to try it again. However, when I was installing the cv axle on the driver side, I tried to rotate the cv axles to check for grinding and when I did, the passenger side would not rotate with the driver side. I rotated the passenger side and the driver side won't rotate. At this point I'm pretty sure it has to do with the transmission, just not sure what it would be. The driver side seems to be the side that is completely shot as when I rotate the passenger side by hand, the driver side feels as if it is grinding it it wants to get traction but it just won't. Any input and advise will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Fix what you have and then you KNOW what you got. Sourcing a used 30 year-old transmission is a gamble, so you may end up with another one with equal problems... or worse. It was cheaper, but it isn't necessarily better. Some times you get lucky... some times you don't. 

Update, so I drained the MTF and found no metal chunks at all. Though maybe it was a badly installed cv axle, so I refilled the transmission and was going to put it back together to try it again. However, when I was installing the cv axle on the driver side, I tried to rotate the cv axles to check for grinding and when I did, the passenger side would not rotate with the driver side. I rotated the passenger side and the driver side won't rotate. At this point I'm pretty sure it has to do with the transmission, just not sure what it would be. The driver side seems to be the side that is completely shot as when I rotate the passenger side by hand, the driver side feels as if it is grinding it it wants to get traction but it just won't. Any input and advise will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
When you rotate the driveshafts by hand to test, make sure the transmission is in gear (not neutral). It's easier for diff to spin gears in neutral than to spin the opposite driveshaft. Having the transmission in gear will let the engine hold the diff steady so only internals will spin.
I imagine you already tried this but thought I would throw it out there.
I imagine you already tried this but thought I would throw it out there.
When you rotate the driveshafts by hand to test, make sure the transmission is in gear (not neutral). It's easier for diff to spin gears in neutral than to spin the opposite driveshaft. Having the transmission in gear will let the engine hold the diff steady so only internals will spin.
I imagine you already tried this but thought I would throw it out there.
I imagine you already tried this but thought I would throw it out there.
Thanks for the input. I have not tried that, but I did start the car and place it in gear, neither wheel would turn, though I was getting an indication at the speedometer that the wheels were moving. I'm thinking it may have something to do with the input shaft. I'll give it a try and go down there. Thanks.
Yeesh. It sound like diff internals have been shattered or stripped. In order to get a speed reading like that, the diff housing has to be spinning.
Yes the axle splines could also be stripped, but that would be easy to detect by popping your axles and half shafts out of the diff.
Yes the axle splines could also be stripped, but that would be easy to detect by popping your axles and half shafts out of the diff.
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LX4CYL
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Nov 11, 2004 07:20 AM









