I'm planning on replacing the original cat on my '92 Civic VX HB because it's partially clogged. The replacement cat will be the Walker Part # 15026.

I would like to reuse the oxygen sensor but was told to replace it. What's wrong with reusing the O2 sensor if it still works?

Also what issues might I expect when replacing the cat? I don't want to start doing it only to find out halfway through that I really can't do it for whatever reason.

Thanks everyone!

 

You'll be fine re-using the sensor, unless it's bad.

You're likely to encounter rusty nuts and studs. Sometimes you can get them apart and reuse them, sometimes they are damaged and need to be replaced.

Do you know if your VX is a 49-state version or the California version? I don't know much about the CA version, but the 49-state version has a special catalytic converter that is basically the lower half of the exhaust manifold. The Walker 15026 is a universal replacement, and likely won't fit on the VX in the stock location.

 

Thanks for the info DaX!

<<You're likely to encounter rusty nuts and studs. Sometimes you can get them apart and reuse them, sometimes they are damaged and need to be replaced.>>

This is what I'm afraid of. I don't have the tools or expertise to remove a broken stud. I'm now leaning towards having a shop install it for me.

<<The Walker 15026 is a universal replacement, and likely won't fit on the VX in the stock location.>>

My VX is a 49-state version. When I was on the Walker website it said Part # 15026 is an "exact fit" for the VX. Is this not the case?

Thanks!

 

Nope - look again. 15026 is the universal cat. It looks like 14648 is the direct fit version, but honestly the pictures I can find don't look like it is a direct bolt-in.

This looks more like what you'll need.

 

With rusted or seized bolts, the biggest piece of advice I can ever give someone is to GO SLOW. Soak it in as much penetrating fluid as possible, use whatever wrench or socket you're able to get the best "seat" on (what you're able to get all the way over the nut so it turns on the whole nut and not just the top or one side), and something you're able to get a good amount of torque over, IE a socket/wrench with a sleeve or extension over it for extra leverage. This is helpful because you can slowly add more pressure to the wrench and gradually apply torque to see if the nut starts to spin. Use a 6 point socket, not 12 point.

Watch the nut when turning, if you only go by feel it's easy to start stripping the nut while thinking you're actually loosening it. You can visually see a lot of times on softer nuts when the edges start to round out, if you notice it starting to happen stop and try with a different tool or more lubricating fluid.

Worst case scenario you can also use something like a dremel or small cutting tool to cut the nut open/off of the stud.

Just some loose/random advice in case you don't take it to a shop or anyone else reading.

 

The 14648 costs more but if it's the right one then that's what I'll get.

Thanks DaX!

 

Hey Chance EG, thanks for the advice!

If a worse case scenario happens, like I break a stud, I'm screwed aren't I? (No pun intended!)

 

Not really. "There's always a way to fix it", just a question of how much of a PITA it can be if something goes wrong.

Worst case scenario something like vice grips can be used on stripped nuts, heat can be applied, or if all else fails bolts and studs can be drilled out.

With rusted bolts if you're able to fit in an impact gun those are actually the best way to go, that "hammering" impact and vibration they have can really help knock rusted nuts and bolts loose without stripping them.