2000 Accord LX
154k miles

The front passenger caliper on this car won't retract. I'm stumped what might be the cause.

We've relegated this Accord to "seldom-used" status, so every month or so I drive it around the neighborhood for a mile run. During my most recent circuit, I noticed after ~10mins the car struggling to maintain 20mph, and it coasted to an immediate stop (in both drive and neutral). I suspected a seized caliper. I got it home and confirmed my suspicion. While the brakes cooled I bought an aftermarket caliper seal kit. I had the entire job completed inside an hour. The piston, piston seal, and bore—all twenty-three years young—were pristine. For prudence sake, I also replaced the years-old amber old brake fluid throughout the entire system. I took it for a drive and within ten minutes the same thing happened.

Maybe the non-OEM piston seal I installed isn't retracting the piston? Otherwise I'm stumped. Anyone familiar with this sort of gremlin?

Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

Brake lines can fail internally and cause this, basically acting like a check valve.

 

Good point. The OP should check the rubber lines as well as the metal lines. I can also see a pinch in the lines doing this.

 

How did you confirm the caliper was seized?

 

Reasonable question.
Smoke was coming from the wheel. I jacked up the front of the Accord, put the car in neutral, and confirmed the wheel wouldn't spin.

 

"Check valve behavior" is exactly how I describe this phenomenon to other wrenchers, each just as stymied as I am. That would explain why I was able to fully bleed the lines at this corner, but the caliper still won't retract. I'll replace the brake hose and evaluate.

 

I see no mention about the condition of the caliper slide pins.

Are the slide pins lubed and do they slide easily in and out?

 

Yes. Caliper pins are in excellent condition. Caliper assemblies, after cleanup, slide freely.

After the brakes cooled completely, I performed a complete front brakes overhaul, short of resurfacing the rotors, to eliminate these smallish items.

• Removed/disassembled/cleaned calipers, replaced seals—piston, piston seal, and bore were pristine, like-new condition
• Removed/cleaned/lubed pins, replaced the boots (Permatex 24125)
• Removed/replaced/lubed glides (Permatex 24125)
• Removed/replaced pads
• Replaced banjo fitting crush washers
• Replaced DOT3

Brake systems are insanely simple. There just aren't that many parts.

 

I found a video that shows the EXACT problem!


The brakes I'm working on are in much better condition.

 

Jack up the front wheels and try to spin the other side. Then jack up the rear and try to spin the rear.

 

Opposite wheel spins fine/rear wheels spin fine. I don't think the problem is in the master cylinder or the differential..

I'll replace the brake hose and evaluate.

 

Neither do I.

Whats a few more parts, eh?

Best of luck