Honda has discontinued the factory hubs Has anyone used Durago hubs on track? I bought Durago front hubs for both eg and ef and the Durago wheel studs are not the same size anymore as the old honda. The Durago stud holes are bigger so the Honda 88-2000 Arp will not fit. Any idea what fits these bigger wheel stud holes?

 

You'll have to knock out a stud, measure the knurl diameter, and compare it to the published dimensions on ARP's website to find a suitable stud. For me a few years back, it was Subaru/Toyota stud that did the job for some aftermarket CR-V hubs.

 

Did you actually measure the knurl diameter of the DuraGo studs? If so, did it come out to be 0.565"? If that's so, the EVO VIII ARP studs (ARP part number 100-7717) are also M12 x 1.5 thread pitch and would work perfectly!

I'm in the same boat, looking to upgrade to ARP wheel studs with the DuraGo hubs that are currently on the car. Seemingly the DuraGo hubs are the only affordable aftermarket option out there.

I agree that the Karcepts hubs means not having to dig into all this, but the DuraGo option is MUCH cheaper. Only having to spend ~$40 on the DuraGo hubs is a heck of a lot cheaper than ~$360 for the Karcepts hubs, plus the B-series adapter kit ($30), plus the cost of RSX-S axles (~$100). For me, it would be entirely worth the effort to save $400+!

 

I can't promise you that YOUR durago hubs will even come with the same size studs from hub to hub. I have eg right here with driver side using honda arp in durago and pass side using Subaru 0.565 arp in durago. You need to buy 2 hubs measure them to be same 565 so just get the Mitsu for correct thread pitch. If you watch video you can see that some of the durago are undersized so you do not know until you have the hub in your hand.

Yes they are cheap and if they work great that is awesome. I don't know what car you have but you might remember ef hubs used to fail so OPM was cryo treating them, so nothing will crash you faster than cheap hubs a the track. At least you know the karcept is a treated chromoly hub

 

karcept have 32mm hubs https://karcepts.com/collections/kar...-wheel-bearing

 

both durago hubs. honda arp in left impreza arp in right u really need it in your hand and see what size stud it came with before buying any studs

 

Ugh, that would frustrate me. What about Timkens? I got a set of Integra rears last year and they were still boxing NTNs.

 

Thank you for sharing all the information! I appreciate it!

It sounds like their quality control leaves something to be lacking... I'm running a DC2. I'll do some digging into failed hubs before I spend any cash. Thank you again, sir!

 

My apologies, I saw your previous post, but didn't watch the video.

Good lord, that's frustrating- I didn't realize that DuraGo didn't standardize their knurl sizes... essentially making it impossible to know what size studs to use without having the hubs in your hand and measuring them yourself.

At this point, I'm with you, while more money, the Karcepts hubs are likely the way to go, especially when calculating for the reduced risk of failure on track.

 

I took a look at them and don't think I can use them, as I have a DC2 (bigger rotor/bearing size). Otherwise, I would order them in a heartbeat.

 

maybe it is this one https://karcepts.com/collections/kar...-wheel-bearing

 

Ok I was just looking at rock auto parts for 96 teg

I see they still have the rear Timken hub/bearing and when i zoom in on bearing picture I see "ntn"

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=1636&jsn=848

Also strangely in the rear hub listings they have a SKF front hub and bearing I bet that prob uses honda size studs but not sure....in their front hub listings they only have the cheap $20 durago in question

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=1636&jsn=851

 

A couple years ago I’d ordered SKF BR930588K for the front hubs on an Integra and it used standard Honda sized ARP studs. I don’t recall it having any NTN markings on it.

 

I figured I would update this thread. I ordered Karcepts 36mm hubs and cheap RockAuto (Trakmotive) 36mm axles and installed them yesterday. It's been a while and I had forgotten how much of a pain in the neck this is. Notes:-Karcepts sends you shims with the kit, saying in some rare occasions, the axle will hit the knuckle and seize. On the left side, yep, it seized when trying to tighten the axle nut (Karcepts recommends 220 ft-lbs of torque for the new 36mm axles). No big deal. Just remove it and put the shim on. Good to go. Onto the right side...

-The right side turned into a nightmare... popped the axle in, sure enough, it seized against the knuckle, just like the left side... ok, I'll throw a shim on (they only supply you with 2)... nope, still seized. I'm out of shims. I drove down to Ace Hardware, who luckily, had the exact shims Karcepts sent out. Hooray! 2 shims and it's no longer seized. Sweet. I'm having a problem getting the right axle to turn freely with the wheels off and suspension at full droop ... I can't see anything it's getting hung up on, but the angle of the axle looks pretty sharp... I turn the car on while on jack stands, thinking I'll row through a gear to see if anything sticks out... As I start to go into gear, the car (right side) has a massive vibration and loud noise... I instinctively go to press on the brakes out of habit- completely forgetting they're not connected. Sigh. I'm hoping I didn't damage the caliper(s) from touching the brakes with no pads to press down on...

I'm completely stumped. I put a jack underneath the right side lower control arm, out of morbid curiosity, to see what would happen if I made the axle level... when the axle becomes level, all noise and vibration goes away completely and the axle spins smoothly with ease... was it the angle?

I take a closer look at the inside of the right axle, where it connects to the transmission... for the life of me, I can't get the axle to fully seat in the transmission. It's about 5mm away from the large plate on the axle from touching the transmission like stock. However, Karcepts did send me a ~5mm spacer (they're like an extra $30 and needed for a B-series transmission) to put on the inner end of the axle, to avoid leaks... maybe it's not supposed to be flush with the transmission due to the spacer? I have no idea and Karcepts didn't send any instructions for that specifically (which is odd, as they're usually extremely thorough). The wheel is engaging/getting power. The axle is spinning without issue... but it's not flush. I'll write Karcepts to see if there's maybe something I'm missing.

-I now have a slow transmission fluid leak from the right/passenger side of the car. Not sure if I potentially damaged the seal during install, or if there's something internal from the axle. For the record, I installed brand new axle seals ~6 months ago when I put in the B16b transmission and they've never leaked a drop.


So, I go to drive the car... I notice at low speeds (~5mph or under) when braking the car is now making a clunking noise... FML. It sounds more or less like it's coming from the right side. I'm not sure if I damaged the caliper from pressing the brakes with nothing to squeeze... or if one of the pads isn't seated right (the calipers did fight me more than normal)... or if the springy brake hardware got bent up (at least one of them did seem loose)... or if I scuffed up the rotors/pads (no comment)... or if it has something to do with the axle... or if I somehow damaged one of the ball joints (they all seemed fine and came loose without much effort with a ball joint separator)... I have no idea. All I know is that between wrenching and making 2 trips to the store, I worked on this stupid project from 8am until 5pm yesterday and then called it a night.

Beyond the clunking when coming to a stop, the car seemingly drives fine. I'll probably get to troubleshooting when I'm no longer seeing red.

Needless to say: I wouldn't recommend this swap to anyone running a B-series engine. It seemed like a good idea at the time. In hindsight, I would had just found some OEM hubs for this and continued using my stock axles.

For what it's worth, the smaller 32mm axles are about 1.8 lbs lighter per side vs the 36mm axles.

Side note: when I removed the old hubs that were on the car (DuraGo), I knocked out the studs and measured them: they measured at 0.4810"... ARP says their Honda studs (110-7711) are 0.485"... I'm pretty confident that the ARP studs would have worked just fine in the cheap DuraGo hubs. For reference the hubs were marked as part number TA95067. I'm pretty sure on RockAuto's site they were listed as part number 29595067 for my DC2 Integra (I have a 1996 Integra GSR).

 

I ended up going back to a 32mm setup, using SKF hubs. For reference the SKF hubs fit the OEM Honda sized ARP studs just fine.