Hey guys, I have a 95’ accord coupe 5-speed and Idk what’s up with it. I replaced the distributor, plugs and wires a few months back and it ran great. Last night I pulled into my driveway to park it and before I could even turn it off, it shut off by itself. Now it won’t crank up at all. I did a spark test and it’s got nothing. So I figured it had to be the ignition coil because it’s the only part of the ignition system I haven’t replaced. Well I replaced it today after work, and still no spark…..I’m pretty lost at this point lol so any ideas as to why it won’t start?? It will spin over and all the lights come on but no spark. Send helpppp

 

Grounds! Clean your grounds or add more grounding to the engine,

What you can try doing is take a jumper cable, connect it to the negative side of the battery and the other side to the engine block clamp (on top of the block) and then start to start with it connected like that. See if it gives spark. If it does, then you have a grounding issue

 

Thanks for the info! I bought new grounds for the battery and I’m going to add an extra one just to be sure. Hopefully this works, but I’ll keep ya posted! I also replaced all my fuses and relays and the ignition coil connector too. STILL no spark. But maybe this will do it because if not, I may be looking at a new ECM 💀💀

 

It isnt just the battery ground, its usually the engine to frame ground. You want to clean it up well or replace it

 

So I replaced all grounds going to the battery (frame mounted and engine mounted) got new battery terminals, cleaned all the spots the grounds bolt into, and even added an extra ground for good measure…….Still no spark coming from the coil 🤦‍♂️ so either the crankshaft sensor (sometimes listed as TDC sensor) inside the distributor is bad and I need ANOTHER new distributor, or my ECM took a s**t. Either way, this sucks. If my car was a 96’ with obd2, it would probably be fixed already, but noooo it just had to be a 95’ :/

 

Like I say, start with the easiest thing. You are missing one of the grounds, the engine to frame one. Did you clean it up? That has caused a no spark situation for me before

 

Where would this frame to engine ground be located? Driver side? Passenger side? Front or back? Top or bottom? Because I replaced all the grounds I could see, cleaned all the connecting points, and added an extra ground just to be sure. If you can elaborate on where this mysterious other ground wire is, that would be extremely helpful lol.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...ntake-3321750/

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...plugged-31546/

etc

 

Okay I see what you’re talking about now. I don’t think my car has one of those to be completely honest. Mine is non-vtec and it’s also a 95’ model with no obd2 either. I’m at work rn but I’ll double check when I get home today to be sure. If this is the problem I definitely owe ya one! Thanks again for all the help and here’s the exact specs for my car too.

1995 Honda Accord LX 2.2L non-vtec manual coupe.

 

Mine is OBD1 and non-vtec and definitely has a ground there. Its free to check anyway.

Can also use a modified version of my jumper cable suggestion. Can put one end of a cable on to the engine block, other end on to the body somewhere (like the strut bolts at the strut tower) and try to start, see if you have spark that way

 

Okay so I definitely didn’t see a ground back behind the intake. But I did do as you suggested and bought a brand new ground that I ran from the block to the frame. Still won’t crank up. It just sits there and turns over but won’t crank. I’m pretty lost at this point, so I’m gonna step away from it for awhile before I decide to bust out the 12 gauge and give it a reason not to run lol. My options now are all risky and expensive and may not fix the problem at all, but it’s either the distributor crapped out on me, (even tho it’s only a year old) my ECU crapped out on me, or my ignition switch crapped out on me. All of these parts are over $200 so I’m taking a break before I snap and decide to set it on fire lol. Thanks for the advice tho man.

(Get a Honda they said. They’re good fun little cars they said….I should’ve stuck with my Toyotas 🤦‍♂️)

 

I diagnosed my ECU being faulty by putting it in the freezer for about 30 minutes and then plugging it back in and it fired right up, but slowly stopped working as it reached ambient temp. Might be worth checking out or visually inspecting the inside. Free n easy. I guess could do the same for main fuel relay also.

 

So I’ve done all my grounds, new coil, new plugs, new wires, new fuses, new ignition coil connector, new battery terminals, and a 2nd new distributor because as you can see in the picture, mine was broken (don’t buy a distributor from oreillys lol) and after all that, I still have no spark coming from the coil. The timing belt isn’t broken because the cams still move when I spin it over. Any ideas guys? I’ve done everything I know to do so (besides the ECU) and I’m pretty lost at this point 😅

 

Would this distributor having a broken tooth mess with the timing in a way to prevent spark? Im just shooting ideas out here because I honestly don’t know where to go from here lol

 

Nobody is on this forum anymore apparently so I’ll just grab my test light and figure it out myself. Hondas suck and so does this forum. Toyotas are more reliable and the Toyota forum is actually helpful and active. This was a huge waste of time, much like this raggedy *** Honda lol. Won’t be hearing from me again tho ✌️

 

A broken tooth on your distributor is kinda critical. Good luck getting it to spin

Don't get your panties in a bunch about people taking a few days to reply.

You are talking about a 25+ year old vehicle here, how many people do you think are actively on the forums?
As a toyota and honda owner, maybe toyotas might be more reliable, but of the equivalent age they are also boring AF to drive, so have fun there