93 Integra Ls/ stock B18A1/ (was) virgin PR4 ECU-



So I bought chip/socketing kit. I have exp with guitar wiring and my buddy is a comp sci major and tinkers with PCB’s etc. so we thought we were qualified enough for a weekend diy install.







we desoldered 28 pin joints pretty cleanly. Something came up so I had to go, but I told my buddy he was welcome to solder in the 28pin header and wait for me to tackle the rest. He installs the header and tells me there was swelling either from the header or solder material somehow collecting on the header so 2 pins side by side were making contact. I kinda freaked and we stopped there.



[img]blob:https://honda-tech.com/63e87c09-65ca-47eb-98a5-49fdaf98d981[/img]



I figured since that’s all we messed with and I never installed J1 resistor that the ecu should run as stock still and not use that part of the pcb correct ?



this was my understanding so I plugged up the ecu and behold CEL. Turned on the car and instantly sounded very weird and idle very weird so I turned it off.

Also paper clip trick showed solid CEL still which I’m sure is Code 0?





since J1 was never installed I don’t get how my cars now running weird and CEL light on so maybe someone can enlighten me.



Is this fixable? I can’t think of an easy way to remove the now soldered in 28pin header but beside that nothing else in the ECU has been tampered with or installed. Do I need a new ECU ??



Here is a pic of the back of the header if that helps:

[img]blob:https://honda-tech.com/6d55a90a-73b0-45dc-b6cf-6f5cfaf8b290[/img]



-any help is appreciated I miss my baby

[img]blob:https://honda-tech.com/72cfd860-202f-4e68-869d-ac3646663686[/img]

 

Links don't work but if J1 is still open, it SHOULD run as before - unless the positive and GND voltage pins on the socket have been shorted

 

i will try to fix the link but scroll down to related threads and it shows pics but damn I don’t understand how I could have shorted the board. Especially only messing with the 28pin and nothing else. I sent the board out to get “fixed” which I think the header is going to get removed and the caps will get replaced. I hope that this fixes my issue somehow and I didn’t just shell out more money on an ecu that can’t be fixed. Not an electrical guy but In my head “short” = Dead ecu :,(

 

okay I am better understanding what you’re saying. I attached pics of the header and there are pins touching each other so shorting could be absolutely a possibility. I hope after paying to get the header removed that all is well, thanks for your input 👍🏼

 

Yep - clear as water! Too much solder...