no power to starter signal wire causing No crank/no start
I have a 1999 civic dx I’ve been fighting with for a few days now. I unplugged the battery to do general maintenance and when I went to plug it back&start, it was a no crank no start. There’s power to the battery and starter, and I can jump the starter to the signal wire and it runs like a champ. The fuse to the starter signal wire and the wire itself is showing no power, I’ve replaced the two starter relays under the dash, tested the ignition switch, and I have had the clutch safety switch wired into itself for a while now so that shouldn’t be the problem.
sorry if that was a lot, and if anything is unclear I can try to clarify better! Just curious if anyone has had an issue similar to this or have any ideas of things to check because I’m out of ideas at this point.
sorry if that was a lot, and if anything is unclear I can try to clarify better! Just curious if anyone has had an issue similar to this or have any ideas of things to check because I’m out of ideas at this point.
I checked signal wire with a multimeter and got no reading
and I am attaching the diagram I am using
Im gonna make a big assumption and say a DX probably didn't have a factory alarm. On the off chance it did, the dotted line on your wiring diagram represents the antitheft relay.
On the start signal wire, there should be ground(B-) or possibly nothing until the key is in the run/start position.
Power(B+) will only be present as long as the key is held in the run position.
Make sure you have power to the ignition switch on pin 3(wht) at all times, There is only 1 starter relay. If you have 2 then you do have anit-theft. You need to verify this because you said you replaced both starter relays.
The following tests should be performed with the key held in the run/start position and all connectors plugged in:
Check for power(B+) on pin 1 (blk/wht) of the ignition switch.
Check for power(B+) on pin 5 and pin 1(both blk/wht) of the starter relay.
Check for power(B+) on pin 2 (blk/red)
Check for ground(B-) on pin 3(blu/blk) of the starter relay
On the start signal wire, there should be ground(B-) or possibly nothing until the key is in the run/start position.
Power(B+) will only be present as long as the key is held in the run position.
Make sure you have power to the ignition switch on pin 3(wht) at all times, There is only 1 starter relay. If you have 2 then you do have anit-theft. You need to verify this because you said you replaced both starter relays.
The following tests should be performed with the key held in the run/start position and all connectors plugged in:
Check for power(B+) on pin 1 (blk/wht) of the ignition switch.
Check for power(B+) on pin 5 and pin 1(both blk/wht) of the starter relay.
Check for power(B+) on pin 2 (blk/red)
Check for ground(B-) on pin 3(blu/blk) of the starter relay
sorry for the generalization, I tested the starter signals switch with the key held in the run position and got nothing.
Will look into where the relays are wired more to see if the one is to the ignition or somewhere else as anti theft, as for the ignition, i tested the plugs in the accessory, on, and held in run, and seemed to have gotten the correct readings, as per the ignition switch test on the F.A.Q page.
going to try to test the pins of the relay for power next time I get a chance to run to my garage I didn’t even think to do that, thank you!
Will look into where the relays are wired more to see if the one is to the ignition or somewhere else as anti theft, as for the ignition, i tested the plugs in the accessory, on, and held in run, and seemed to have gotten the correct readings, as per the ignition switch test on the F.A.Q page.
going to try to test the pins of the relay for power next time I get a chance to run to my garage I didn’t even think to do that, thank you!
Last edited by Billit23; Mar 8, 2023 at 04:54 PM.
Im gonna make a big assumption and say a DX probably didn't have a factory alarm. On the off chance it did, the dotted line on your wiring diagram represents the antitheft relay.
On the start signal wire, there should be ground(B-) or possibly nothing until the key is in the run/start position.
Power(B+) will only be present as long as the key is held in the run position.
Make sure you have power to the ignition switch on pin 3(wht) at all times, There is only 1 starter relay. If you have 2 then you do have anit-theft. You need to verify this because you said you replaced both starter relays.
The following tests should be performed with the key held in the run/start position and all connectors plugged in:
Check for power(B+) on pin 1 (blk/wht) of the ignition switch.
Check for power(B+) on pin 5 and pin 1(both blk/wht) of the starter relay.
Check for power(B+) on pin 2 (blk/red)
Check for ground(B-) on pin 3(blu/blk) of the starter relay
On the start signal wire, there should be ground(B-) or possibly nothing until the key is in the run/start position.
Power(B+) will only be present as long as the key is held in the run position.
Make sure you have power to the ignition switch on pin 3(wht) at all times, There is only 1 starter relay. If you have 2 then you do have anit-theft. You need to verify this because you said you replaced both starter relays.
The following tests should be performed with the key held in the run/start position and all connectors plugged in:
Check for power(B+) on pin 1 (blk/wht) of the ignition switch.
Check for power(B+) on pin 5 and pin 1(both blk/wht) of the starter relay.
Check for power(B+) on pin 2 (blk/red)
Check for ground(B-) on pin 3(blu/blk) of the starter relay
So the clutch safety switch is getting power, and the connector to the relay is getting power, but the starter signal fuse and starter signal wire itself don’t seem to be getting any power, and now that I’m thinking about it I didn’t hear those relays clicking when trying to turn it over. re did testing the starter signal wire and didn’t get anything when flipping the car to run, is there a chance I could just somehow wire in a new starter signal wire from somewhere in the dash? Honestly lost on what this could be
Have you checked for an aftermarket relay installed on the starter circuit connected to an alarm system? Often if there is an alarm when you disconnect the battery it will disable the starter until deactivating the alarm. Second, double check your clutch bypass and use a test light when checking for power, not just a meter. The light puts a small load on the circuit to help find poor connections. Also, check the battery terminals for a poor connection or wire that pulled loose.
Trending Topics
Just checked, and Ignition seems to be reading good, as well as the connector for the starter relay. only thing I had trouble doing was testing for ground, would you put it in continuity?
So the clutch safety switch is getting power, and the connector to the relay is getting power, but the starter signal fuse and starter signal wire itself don’t seem to be getting any power, and now that I’m thinking about it I didn’t hear those relays clicking when trying to turn it over. re did testing the starter signal wire and didn’t get anything when flipping the car to run, is there a chance I could just somehow wire in a new starter signal wire from somewhere in the dash? Honestly lost on what this could be
So the clutch safety switch is getting power, and the connector to the relay is getting power, but the starter signal fuse and starter signal wire itself don’t seem to be getting any power, and now that I’m thinking about it I didn’t hear those relays clicking when trying to turn it over. re did testing the starter signal wire and didn’t get anything when flipping the car to run, is there a chance I could just somehow wire in a new starter signal wire from somewhere in the dash? Honestly lost on what this could be
Do you have 12v+ on the black and red wire (pin 2) of the starter relay when in the start/run position?
(dont tell me you have power, tell me what the voltage reading is)
Just checked, and Ignition seems to be reading good, as well as the connector for the starter relay. only thing I had trouble doing was testing for ground, would you put it in continuity?
So the clutch safety switch is getting power, and the connector to the relay is getting power, but the starter signal fuse and starter signal wire itself don’t seem to be getting any power, and now that I’m thinking about it I didn’t hear those relays clicking when trying to turn it over. re did testing the starter signal wire and didn’t get anything when flipping the car to run, is there a chance I could just somehow wire in a new starter signal wire from somewhere in the dash? Honestly lost on what this could be
So the clutch safety switch is getting power, and the connector to the relay is getting power, but the starter signal fuse and starter signal wire itself don’t seem to be getting any power, and now that I’m thinking about it I didn’t hear those relays clicking when trying to turn it over. re did testing the starter signal wire and didn’t get anything when flipping the car to run, is there a chance I could just somehow wire in a new starter signal wire from somewhere in the dash? Honestly lost on what this could be
Ended up going to garage to check power to relay plug, when testing for it I got no power, ended up figuring that it had to have been before that in the circuit. So I started looking at my clutch safety switch, well I recently swapped the jumper on the switch cable from a wire to solder, and figured I’d try to switch back to wire, when I did, and plugged in new relays, it started right up and ran! Ended up being that i wasn’t thorough enough in my diagnosis and didn’t even think to look at the jumper wire itself for power. With that being said does solder have some type of flux on/in in that stops it from being conductive before actually being heated? Thanks to everyone for the help troubleshooting though I appreciate it a lot!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Tippyman
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
15
Nov 13, 2007 08:55 PM







