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I'm starting to get back into working on my car again. We're putting in a B20Z2 (previous being a D16Y8). There are a few things that I'm not understanding completely. We converted it from automatic to manual, using a transmission from a 99 Acura gsr. I took the ecu (p72) and got a jumper cable for it as well. And I believe I'm using the gsr intake manifold and throttle body.
I need help with a few things if anyone has ideas please let me know, this has taken me 3 years and i refuse to give up
- a few codes left, one of them is a code for an ELD
- Reverse lights are stuck on
- it will crank but wont completely start and stay on
- cannot find an upper transmission mount (trying to talk my grandfather out of welding it in place)
These are just what I can think of off the top of my head. In the next few days ill be posting pictures, codes and what not. Please of anyone has any ideas or has had similar issues, let me know.
P0118 ECT sensor 1 high input
P1337 - CKP (CKF) no signal
P1298 - ELD voltage high
P1508 - IAC valve circuit failure
P0113 - IAT sensor voltage high
P1382 - CMP sensor no signal
P0122 - TP sensor voltage low
P0108 - MAP sensor voltage high
We had gone through and fixed some of these because I mixed a few if the wires up, and had to redo my timing because of the crank position sensor. So I will go back through and update thus list later.
Last edited by Dizzyzomby; Feb 22, 2023 at 12:04 AM.
I believe I'm using the gsr intake manifold and throttle body.
Not likely. You should be running a B18B/P75/LS manifold on this engine.
What year is the chassis? What year is the ecu? What engine loom are you using? Why are you trying to use a vtec ecu on a non-vtec engine? Your issue, off the cuff, sounds like an incorrect jumper harness, but it's suspicious that you are using one to swap an OBD2 engine and ecu into an OBD2 car.
The CKF sensor is not used for timing. It sounds like you are mixed up with the CKP sensor, which is in the distributor. You also have no cam sensor signal. The ecu cannot achieve sync without it.
I'm concerned that you have the MAP and TPS sensor connectors swapped as well. Double check that, they have the same connector shell. Same with the IAT and IACV. This can damage the ECU as one is a sensor and one is an actuator. Be careful!
You will not be able to get the car running without MAP and engine position. You will not be able to get it running decently without IAT.
What are you calling the upper transmission mount? Welding is almost never the correct answer, this is a fully bolt-in swap. You should be able to recycle the stock mounts and use the rear trans bracket for a 99-00 Si (or aftermarket equivalent)
Hasport does about the best job in the biz with mounts, Innovative are also good if you want to save a few $$$, they also have steel versions if you want to save a few more.
Not likely. You should be running a B18B/P75/LS manifold on this engine.
What year is the chassis? What year is the ecu? What engine loom are you using? Why are you trying to use a vtec ecu on a non-vtec engine? Your issue, off the cuff, sounds like an incorrect jumper harness, but it's suspicious that you are using one to swap an OBD2 engine and ecu into an OBD2 car.
The CKF sensor is not used for timing. It sounds like you are mixed up with the CKP sensor, which is in the distributor. You also have no cam sensor signal. The ecu cannot achieve sync without it.
I'm concerned that you have the MAP and TPS sensor connectors swapped as well. Double check that, they have the same connector shell. Same with the IAT and IACV. This can damage the ECU as one is a sensor and one is an actuator. Be careful!
You will not be able to get the car running without MAP and engine position. You will not be able to get it running decently without IAT.
What are you calling the upper transmission mount? Welding is almost never the correct answer, this is a fully bolt-in swap. You should be able to recycle the stock mounts and use the rear trans bracket for a 99-00 Si (or aftermarket equivalent)
Hasport does about the best job in the biz with mounts, Innovative are also good if you want to save a few $$$, they also have steel versions if you want to save a few more.
Have you read through and followed the auto to manual swap guides in the FAQ at the top of this subforum?
I might have the wrong ecu part number up, because I bought 2 one was obd1 and the other obd2, tomorrow ill posy pictures of the manifold when I head out there. Either that or I need to go get a different ecu. The chassis is a 2000 honda civic EX. I believe we too the ecu out of the same car we got the manifold from which was a 99 Acura integra I think.
Tomorrow I'll check again if it's CKP, and the swapped sensors those ones I think we fixed just recently.
Will post pictures soon, thank you for the help, I'll get right on it!
The codes you posted up are all OBD2, so whatever ecu you have in there is as well.
A 99 Integra (OBD2A) ecu will physically plug into a 99-00 Civic (OBD2B) but will not work as the pinout is quite different between the sub-generations - especially with regards to the ecu-to-chassis connections that run through the green C131 connector. There are OBD2B to OBD2A adapter harnesses. You are better off finding an ecu of the correct generation though.
To run the B20Z2 in the Civic, the most correct ecu will be a 37820-PHK-A01 (99-01 manual CR-V). Most people downgrade to an OBD1 ecu because they are chippable and can be converted for tuning.
The codes you posted up are all OBD2, so whatever ecu you have in there is as well.
A 99 Integra (OBD2A) ecu will physically plug into a 99-00 Civic (OBD2B) but will not work as the pinout is quite different between the sub-generations - especially with regards to the ecu-to-chassis connections that run through the green C131 connector. There are OBD2B to OBD2A adapter harnesses. You are better off finding an ecu of the correct generation though.
To run the B20Z2 in the Civic, the most correct ecu will be a 37820-PHK-A01 (99-01 manual CR-V). Most people downgrade to an OBD1 ecu because they are chippable and can be converted for tuning.
I gotcha I'll take a look and see which ones I got, and if I gotta order the A01. For the green c131 what does that one look like? (Sorry I'm not a pro at this)
Absolutely. The ELD is in the underhood fuse panel. I'm not sure if you might have fried the ecu, but it's not out of the realm of possibilities, considering the crossed connections that may have been made.
Based on the error codes you posted, it seems like there are issues with various sensors and circuits in your engine. Here are a few things to consider:
For the ELD code (P1298), you may want to check the wiring harness and connections to make sure there are no issues there. If everything looks good, you may need to replace the ELD itself.
The reverse lights issue could be related to the wiring or switch for the backup light switch. You might want to check the connections and wiring for any damage or wear and replace the switch if necessary.
If the engine is cranking but not starting, there could be a few possible issues to look into. Check the fuel pump and fuel pressure to make sure they're working properly, and verify that the spark plugs are in good condition and properly gapped. You might also want to check the timing belt to make sure it's properly aligned and tensioned.
For the upper transmission mount, you may want to look for aftermarket options that are compatible with your vehicle, or even try fabricating one yourself if you have the skills and resources.
Hopefully, these suggestions can help you diagnose and resolve some of the issues you're experiencing. Good luck with your B20Z2 swap!
It's the green connector right next to all of the other ecu connectors.
Please excuse the mess it's my first car lol. I have 3 ecus here, p2p, p75, and one that has a jumper on it and I'm not sure what the part number is on that one
Not likely. You should be running a B18B/P75/LS manifold on this engine.
What year is the chassis? What year is the ecu? What engine loom are you using? Why are you trying to use a vtec ecu on a non-vtec engine? Your issue, off the cuff, sounds like an incorrect jumper harness, but it's suspicious that you are using one to swap an OBD2 engine and ecu into an OBD2 car.
The CKF sensor is not used for timing. It sounds like you are mixed up with the CKP sensor, which is in the distributor. You also have no cam sensor signal. The ecu cannot achieve sync without it.
I'm concerned that you have the MAP and TPS sensor connectors swapped as well. Double check that, they have the same connector shell. Same with the IAT and IACV. This can damage the ECU as one is a sensor and one is an actuator. Be careful!
You will not be able to get the car running without MAP and engine position. You will not be able to get it running decently without IAT.
What are you calling the upper transmission mount? Welding is almost never the correct answer, this is a fully bolt-in swap. You should be able to recycle the stock mounts and use the rear trans bracket for a 99-00 Si (or aftermarket equivalent)
Hasport does about the best job in the biz with mounts, Innovative are also good if you want to save a few $$$, they also have steel versions if you want to save a few more.
Have you read through and followed the auto to manual swap guides in the FAQ at the top of this subforum?
The transmission is off no matter which t bracket we put in so we put in an aftermarket one. We tried lifting it up and seeing if the lower mounts were the problem but no luck. And we can think of anything else for it
And I'm pretty sure we took the intake from another car, which im pretty sure is the acura.
Based on the error codes you posted, it seems like there are issues with various sensors and circuits in your engine. Here are a few things to consider:
For the ELD code (P1298), you may want to check the wiring harness and connections to make sure there are no issues there. If everything looks good, you may need to replace the ELD itself.
The reverse lights issue could be related to the wiring or switch for the backup light switch. You might want to check the connections and wiring for any damage or wear and replace the switch if necessary.
If the engine is cranking but not starting, there could be a few possible issues to look into. Check the fuel pump and fuel pressure to make sure they're working properly, and verify that the spark plugs are in good condition and properly gapped. You might also want to check the timing belt to make sure it's properly aligned and tensioned.
For the upper transmission mount, you may want to look for aftermarket options that are compatible with your vehicle, or even try fabricating one yourself if you have the skills and resources.
Hopefully, these suggestions can help you diagnose and resolve some of the issues you're experiencing. Good luck with your B20Z2 swap!
The wiring harness is extremely old and worn, but as far as I know everything is getting an accurate reading. We went through and re connected all the sensors with the right plugs and right now were seeing just p0118, p1298, and p0122. BUT lemme look through and see if I see any torn wires or cuts.
ALSO i know im going to sound like an idiot, but where woukd the reverse light sensor be? Should be on top right? Everytime i look it up i get a video of a guy taking apart his transmission
This is the eld right? My grandfather rigged up a way so we can check it using a multimeter, and im not exactly see what he wants me to check so im gonna ask him real quick And for the ect sensor it says voltage high, but i dont see any other connectirs around using the same male, or im an idiot and the d16 has its sensor in a different spot
Okay. Stick the P2P ecu in a box somewhere. It won't be running your B20. It's an automatic ecu, and also I believe auto D16Y8's had a 3-wire IACV (Someone correct me if I'm wrong here).
Good news - the P75 is a manual ecu. Looks like you have the correct OBD2A-OBD2B adapter. I don't think that ecu has an immobilizer, so you should be able to get it running without a CEL.
You still have an ECTS, code. Make sure you haven't switched the ECT sensor connector with the one for the fan switch. I can't see in your pics, but the sensor is on the side of the head and the switch lives on the thermostat housing.
Make sure your TPS is properly set up. You're on an aftermarket and new looking throttle body, so likely it needs to be adjusted. There are how-to's all over the internet, so no point in retying one here.
Reverse light switch is down on the front of the trans, near the lower mount bracket and slave cylinder. They run through the engine loom to C131, then unbroken back to the reverse lights. I can see them in your pic (check my diagram below):
...but looks like you've got them going into one side of the connector but not out the other. Have you repurposed an auto harness?
Regarding your mount, what you have there is a trans mount from 92-95 Civic or 94-01 Integra. On the 96-00 Civic the mount is on the frame rail and the bracket is on the trans. You need #6 in the picture below, 50805-S04-000:
You should be able to go to the junkyard and pull one off of any 96-00 manual trans Civic. Reuse your original trans mount.
Also, you do have the correct P75 OBD2 manifold on there. Your evap valve is plumbed wrong. It needs to run down to the canister from the valve, not to your valve cover.
The nipple on the valve cover needs to be connected to the nipple on your intake tube when you get it on there, that is the fresh air inlet for your PCV system.
Okay. Stick the P2P ecu in a box somewhere. It won't be running your B20. It's an automatic ecu, and also I believe auto D16Y8's had a 3-wire IACV (Someone correct me if I'm wrong here).
Good news - the P75 is a manual ecu. Looks like you have the correct OBD2A-OBD2B adapter. I don't think that ecu has an immobilizer, so you should be able to get it running without a CEL.
You still have an ECTS, code. Make sure you haven't switched the ECT sensor connector with the one for the fan switch. I can't see in your pics, but the sensor is on the side of the head and the switch lives on the thermostat housing.
Make sure your TPS is properly set up. You're on an aftermarket and new looking throttle body, so likely it needs to be adjusted. There are how-to's all over the internet, so no point in retying one here.
Reverse light switch is down on the front of the trans, near the lower mount bracket and slave cylinder. They run through the engine loom to C131, then unbroken back to the reverse lights. I can see them in your pic (check my diagram below):
...but looks like you've got them going into one side of the connector but not out the other. Have you repurposed an auto harness?
Regarding your mount, what you have there is a trans mount from 92-95 Civic or 94-01 Integra. On the 96-00 Civic the mount is on the frame rail and the bracket is on the trans. You need #6 in the picture below, 50805-S04-000:
You should be able to go to the junkyard and pull one off of any 96-00 manual trans Civic. Reuse your original trans mount.
Also, you do have the correct P75 OBD2 manifold on there. Your evap valve is plumbed wrong. It needs to run down to the canister from the valve, not to your valve cover.
The nipple on the valve cover needs to be connected to the nipple on your intake tube when you get it on there, that is the fresh air inlet for your PCV system.
sweet! Lemme check out rq, also i did have to re wire and do somethong to the automatic shifter wiring harness, ill post a picture of that just in case as well
Okay. Stick the P2P ecu in a box somewhere. It won't be running your B20. It's an automatic ecu, and also I believe auto D16Y8's had a 3-wire IACV (Someone correct me if I'm wrong here).
Good news - the P75 is a manual ecu. Looks like you have the correct OBD2A-OBD2B adapter. I don't think that ecu has an immobilizer, so you should be able to get it running without a CEL.
You still have an ECTS, code. Make sure you haven't switched the ECT sensor connector with the one for the fan switch. I can't see in your pics, but the sensor is on the side of the head and the switch lives on the thermostat housing.
Make sure your TPS is properly set up. You're on an aftermarket and new looking throttle body, so likely it needs to be adjusted. There are how-to's all over the internet, so no point in retying one here.
Reverse light switch is down on the front of the trans, near the lower mount bracket and slave cylinder. They run through the engine loom to C131, then unbroken back to the reverse lights. I can see them in your pic (check my diagram below):
...but looks like you've got them going into one side of the connector but not out the other. Have you repurposed an auto harness?
Regarding your mount, what you have there is a trans mount from 92-95 Civic or 94-01 Integra. On the 96-00 Civic the mount is on the frame rail and the bracket is on the trans. You need #6 in the picture below, 50805-S04-000:
You should be able to go to the junkyard and pull one off of any 96-00 manual trans Civic. Reuse your original trans mount.
Also, you do have the correct P75 OBD2 manifold on there. Your evap valve is plumbed wrong. It needs to run down to the canister from the valve, not to your valve cover.
The nipple on the valve cover needs to be connected to the nipple on your intake tube when you get it on there, that is the fresh air inlet for your PCV system.
sweet! Lemme check out rq, also i did have to re wire and do somethong to the automatic shifter wiring harness, ill post a picture of that just in case as well
Yeah, the reverse lights are switched at the shifter assembly on the auto cars. You will have to run a pair of wires through the firewall to that green connector.
sweet! Lemme check out rq, also i did have to re wire and do somethong to the automatic shifter wiring harness, ill post a picture of that just in case as well
So the tube on the left goes to the canister, then the pcv nipples connects to the manifold?
Yeah, the reverse lights are switched at the shifter assembly on the auto cars. You will have to run a pair of wires through the firewall to that green connector.
so there won't be a connector that plugs right in? I found one with the right connector and I'm trying it out, or do I have to physically rewire it
You will need to add the wires and run them through the firewall. Maybe you can find some unused wires in the auto harness and repurpose but that is very much 'choose your own adventure'. Worth pointing out here - I'm far from an expert on auto-to-manual swaps. Have you read through any of the links in the FAQ? It is very well documented already.
1) Crankcase fresh air inlet. Run this to the nipple on your intake tube, once it's on there.
2) Evap vent valve line. Run this down to the canister on the firewall, near your ABS unit.
3) PCV line. This is correct, not a bad idea to get a new PCV valve.
4) Fuel pressure regulator vacuum reference, this is correct. Inspect for cracks/dry rot. The nopple on the AEM regulators is kind of hard on the old rubber.
5) Cruise control vacuum reference. Runs around the bay to the cruise unit in front of the left shock tower. Cap off if you don't have cruise installed.
You will need to add the wires and run them through the firewall. Maybe you can find some unused wires in the auto harness and repurpose but that is very much 'choose your own adventure'. Worth pointing out here - I'm far from an expert on auto-to-manual swaps. Have you read through any of the links in the FAQ? It is very well documented already.
1) Crankcase fresh air inlet. Run this to the nipple on your intake tube, once it's on there.
2) Evap vent valve line. Run this down to the canister on the firewall, near your ABS unit.
3) PCV line. This is correct, not a bad idea to get a new PCV valve.
4) Fuel pressure regulator vacuum reference, this is correct. Inspect for cracks/dry rot. The nopple on the AEM regulators is kind of hard on the old rubber.
5) Cruise control vacuum reference. Runs around the bay to the cruise unit in front of the left shock tower. Cap off if you don't have cruise installed.
BET, thank you, I couldn't get a picture of it before I left, but you guys have helped me so much, we got it to crank over for a bit will try again after the rain. We figured out there is another vacuum nipple on the top of the throttle body. And I'm working on running through your list, and changing the vacuum.
Another question have you seen anything about a vacuum nipple on top of the throttle body, we figured out that if we close it up, itll start up but when you open it, it dies immediately.
for the manual swap, I'm gonna have to go through the faq. I haven't looked in a bit.
today we checked the spark plugs, new sp wires, changed the distributor (got a code for the camshaft sensor), fixed the loose throttle cable, fixed the tps sensor. Emptied the gas tank, new gas and put injector cleaner though it
Next time we're working on vacuum, if you got anymore tips and tricks I'll try them out as well. Again you guys have been loads of help!
This is a pain in the ***, just got a new code p1508, and we still have p1382, we changed the distributor, and I just plugged in the iac, anyone else have any ideas?
and a p0135 for the o2 sensor.
Last edited by Dizzyzomby; Mar 8, 2023 at 08:21 AM.
Bump, still working on this swap, only a few things left before I can get it inspected and registered and what not. I still have a code for the ELD (I have to scan and grab the specific code), issues with reverse lights after doing a auto to manual swap, and im still having issues finding a upper motor mount. We've tried many different mounts and nothing lines up correctly so it's just relying on the bottom mount. After all that is done it should be ready to roll.
For your mount situation, just pick up the phone, call Hasport, and tell them what chassis and what engine you have, and they'll get you sorted.
I auto-to-manual swapped an EF in the past, but not an EG, so my recommendations should point you in a general direction, but won't be specific. The reverse light circuit is extremely basic. It's one switch, power, ground, and the two bulbs. The automatic shifter is where the switch was originally located in your car. You'll need to find the wires that when jumped, make the lights come on. Since you've removed the auto shifter, the switch is now on your manual transmission. You'll need to extend wires from the original location (at the shifter) to the switch on the transmission.
Please I need help! B swap 1992 - 2000 civic
