Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

G23R

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Old Dec 15, 2022 | 02:09 PM
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Post G23R

Howdy, I'm currently making a G23 build. Since prices for H heads are getting UP THERE. I've decided to weld on the block and add material to use a H22 headgasket instead of welding up the head to fit on the block. I know I know, hold your pitchforks and torches. With the prices of H parts getting spendier and F23's are basically one of the most common motors in the junk yard these days in my opinion it makes more sense to weld the cheaper part. I'll mostly be posting my way through this process and saving it for the future honda kids out there. So, lets get started. The first step in all this is gonna be sourcing a good block. Go to your local Crusher pit and look for late 90's-Early 00's accord with BODY DAMAGE. A clean car in the yard means there's a mechanical issue. For me, I found a 01 accord with an F23 in it, T-Boned- 120k miles. I also work at the local honda dealership so I have access to service records so that is helpful. Tear down and clean the ever living hell out of your engine block. Degrease, parts washer, power washer, whatever. Next is gonna be cleaning your welding. (Will include pictures in talking order starting with the welding locations.) Next is to weld your valleys on the side of the block. I'm currently in process of this step but visual aid will be included. The side that has been welded, the mirror opposite side will also need welded. You will also need to add material to support the welds on the top just so it has enough support on the side of the block.

Face of block

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Old Dec 16, 2022 | 04:34 AM
  #2  
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Default Re: G23R

Keep us posted, I like the ambitious nature of this project
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Old Jan 6, 2023 | 12:39 AM
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Default Re: G23R

Originally Posted by HondaSloot
Howdy, I'm currently making a G23 build. Since prices for H heads are getting UP THERE. I've decided to weld on the block and add material to use a H22 headgasket instead of welding up the head to fit on the block. I know I know, hold your pitchforks and torches. With the prices of H parts getting spendier and F23's are basically one of the most common motors in the junk yard these days in my opinion it makes more sense to weld the cheaper part. I'll mostly be posting my way through this process and saving it for the future honda kids out there. So, lets get started. The first step in all this is gonna be sourcing a good block. Go to your local Crusher pit and look for late 90's-Early 00's accord with BODY DAMAGE. A clean car in the yard means there's a mechanical issue. For me, I found a 01 accord with an F23 in it, T-Boned- 120k miles. I also work at the local honda dealership so I have access to service records so that is helpful. Tear down and clean the ever living hell out of your engine block. Degrease, parts washer, power washer, whatever. Next is gonna be cleaning your welding. (Will include pictures in talking order starting with the welding locations.) Next is to weld your valleys on the side of the block. I'm currently in process of this step but visual aid will be included. The side that has been welded, the mirror opposite side will also need welded. You will also need to add material to support the welds on the top just so it has enough support on the side of the block.

Face of block

Side profile
My f23 block was bored out to 87mm and darton sleeved but under boost, the block still managed to crack and upon disassembly we noticed the pistons were chipped and rings were blown to pieces. Building a Frankenstein motor N/A is one thing but adding a t4 turbo into the mix is a whole different project. I’ll never give up on mine but for anybody else, I would recommend spending that little bit extra at the beginning and going with a full H swap to avoid complications.
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Old Jan 6, 2023 | 12:51 AM
  #4  
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Default Re: G23R


I would not recommend these custom spec’d “turbo f23a pistons” to anybody. https://www.raceeng.com/p-31057-cp-p...515p865xr.aspx

RINGS https://www.raceeng.com/p-31057-cp-p...515p865xr.aspx


CP K20 9:1CR pistons with Molnar H rods


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