hey guys, looking for some ideas for places to start troubleshooting a non-starting issue on a '96 lude I swapped a long time ago, took it off the road cuz it was burning oil rebuilt the engine but it sat for like 5 years...

so I get it all together finally and fuel pump's not working pull it out clean the tank replace the pump check all the fuses it gets fuel then but it won't crank, Gage cluster lights up everything but it won't show a fuel level either might not be related. with the key in the on position, cranking the starter manually by jumping the solenoid wire it starts right up and runs. The ignition switch is being a little bit choppy though so I have a another one of these and I swap the ignition switch, the car still won't crank but it'll still start jumping the starter... so I kind of step back replace the master cylinder cuz it has a slow leak, clean the grounds and everything's back original as far as I can tell but now it won't get a fuel injector both signal. I'm guessing I should thoroughly test the main relay, But I was wondering if the relay comes in front of the ignition switch or not I was having trouble finding the diagram because the ignition switch gets 12 volts still on the starter wire when cranking, and all that seems to be behaving as it should.

​​​​​​if anyone has general info on what I should look to test after the ignition switch and where it's located that could be helpful. All the wires running the harnesses and rather than take apart the harness I'd rather just see if there's junctions I can test along the way and see where the signal stops

 

Have you checked the plastic clutch pad at the top of the clutch arm for the starter interrupt switch ? If you hear NOTHING when you try to start the car, this is likely your issue... and thus, why the car will start and run just fine with the key in the on position and you jump power to the starter solenoid spade.

 

this guy


i do hear clicking when i turn the key to the off position and the accessories turn off, i dont hear an additional click when pushing down the clutch though if you try cranking it before the clutch is down.... is the clutch safety switch bypassable by just bridging wires?

 

There are TWO switches on the clutch pedal arm... the one you have pictured above is for disengaging the cruise control when beginning to push in the clutch pedal. The one at the TOP of the pedal assembly, which closes when the pedal is depressed completely to the floor is the one that you need to inspect. Do you see any pieces of plastic that are the same color as the pad you have pictured on the floor or behind the carpet ? Especially the cone shaped base which would normally hold the pad in the hole of the clutch arm ?

 

well slightly embarrassing but that little pad eas the issue for it not cranking.... now im trying to figure out why i lost fuel injector signals, car fires up right away cranking with the key using starter fluid, has good fuel pressure, im thinking maybe make sure the injectors didnt get all clogged upand if any other ideas anyone has ill be glad to pursue them...
the clutch switch bypass worked beautifulllllyly

 

update, more embarrassment, the new fuel pump pick up doesnt quite hit the bottom of the gas tank, added gas, bypassed the clutch safety switch, now its starting right up.

now i found the thermostat housing to the coolant pipe behind the engine just won't seal, the new o rings arent like the old but it leaks worse with the old, i think i need to find the spot where the pipe isnt pressing too unevenly on the housing, seems that the bracket got bent at some point and having trouble finding that sweet spot.

if anyones replaced the o rings and know the size they used thatd be great, right now im kinda of doing trial and error with it, hondabond didnt seem to do the trick lol 🤐
last kit i had i used no hondabond at all but its outta stock everywhere and those o rings are in my other h22 going in my 95

 

Get a new genuine O-ring from Honda. The part number is: 91314-PR7-A00.