EG B-Series swap
Hey everyone, I currently have a 1995 Honda civic coupe. It has the d16z6 in it. I am looking to do a b18b1 swap into the car. I need a list of everything I need to do so. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
My friend had a job interview.
They asked him, "If you don't know something what do you do?"
He said, "I Google it".
They replied, "What if you can't find the answer?"
To which he responded "Google harder". He was hired.
They asked him, "If you don't know something what do you do?"
He said, "I Google it".
They replied, "What if you can't find the answer?"
To which he responded "Google harder". He was hired.
Since no one will help you, guess I will. But honestly, the information is out there already. Learn how to (properly) search AND read.
You will need, bare minimum;
a donor integra.
That's it.
That is the EASIEST way to do it. Start looking on craigslist and fb marketplace, and have $3000 ready to drop on a car.
Find a salvage title, beat up integra, with a running engine. Drive it home, and start taking everything off the integra.
Motor
Trans
Axles
Wiring harness
ECU (important)
Shift linkage
While you have the car, might as well take;
Seats
Front brakes
Rear brakes
Rear sway bar
Everything else is up to you;
Headers
Intake
Exhaust
Suspension
Tires
Oh, and the most important thing you need?
PATIENCE. This will take WAY longer than you think it will. My engine swap took me 3 months, I thought it would take 2 weeks. Be realistic with your skills and experience.
Godspeed, my child.
You will need, bare minimum;
a donor integra.
That's it.
That is the EASIEST way to do it. Start looking on craigslist and fb marketplace, and have $3000 ready to drop on a car.
Find a salvage title, beat up integra, with a running engine. Drive it home, and start taking everything off the integra.
Motor
Trans
Axles
Wiring harness
ECU (important)
Shift linkage
While you have the car, might as well take;
Seats
Front brakes
Rear brakes
Rear sway bar
Everything else is up to you;
Headers
Intake
Exhaust
Suspension
Tires
Oh, and the most important thing you need?
PATIENCE. This will take WAY longer than you think it will. My engine swap took me 3 months, I thought it would take 2 weeks. Be realistic with your skills and experience.
Godspeed, my child.
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OP, there are MANY ways to do what you have asked... and there are multiple PROPER ways to do it, so understand that the parts list can vary. Do you intend to keep A/C and P/S ? If so, this changes your parts list. The "Sticky" threads at the top of this page will answer most, if not all, of your questions. Come back to this thread once you have read them if you have more specific questions.
Cardinal Rule of Engine Swapping: DO NOT sell ANY old parts before your swap is done... this way you don't have to "Re-Buy" any parts that you HAD and now need. Once totally complete and driving... contact BeardedBaldy and make a sale.
Cardinal Rule of Engine Swapping: DO NOT sell ANY old parts before your swap is done... this way you don't have to "Re-Buy" any parts that you HAD and now need. Once totally complete and driving... contact BeardedBaldy and make a sale.

I sold my engine after the swap, but decided to sell the intake manifold separately. Glad I did because the intake manifold didn't sell, guy flaked. Ended up needing the other solenoid, AND the intake air temperature sensor. Whoops 😅 needed those to pass smog, and to clear a CEL.
DEFINITELY do NOT sell anything before your swap is complete. Complete, in this case, means running, driving, no CELs and everything is bolted in properly, and you've been driving it for over a week. You WILL forget some things, only to remember "oh **** I still need X part" halfway to work.
I SECOND THIS.
I sold my engine after the swap, but decided to sell the intake manifold separately. Glad I did because the intake manifold didn't sell, guy flaked. Ended up needing the other solenoid, AND the intake air temperature sensor. Whoops 😅 needed those to pass smog, and to clear a CEL.
DEFINITELY do NOT sell anything before your swap is complete. Complete, in this case, means running, driving, no CELs and everything is bolted in properly, and you've been driving it for over a week. You WILL forget some things, only to remember "oh **** I still need X part" halfway to work.
I sold my engine after the swap, but decided to sell the intake manifold separately. Glad I did because the intake manifold didn't sell, guy flaked. Ended up needing the other solenoid, AND the intake air temperature sensor. Whoops 😅 needed those to pass smog, and to clear a CEL.
DEFINITELY do NOT sell anything before your swap is complete. Complete, in this case, means running, driving, no CELs and everything is bolted in properly, and you've been driving it for over a week. You WILL forget some things, only to remember "oh **** I still need X part" halfway to work.
"Never sell anything ever, and also buy duplicates of anything important."
Get that hoarder mindset! lol...
On a related note I have a home media server currently sitting at ~15TB worth of movies, TV, books, etc - With a mirror backup. Because I'm paranoid like that lol.
Get that hoarder mindset! lol...
On a related note I have a home media server currently sitting at ~15TB worth of movies, TV, books, etc - With a mirror backup. Because I'm paranoid like that lol.
Since no one will help you, guess I will. But honestly, the information is out there already. Learn how to (properly) search AND read.
You will need, bare minimum;
a donor integra.
That's it.
That is the EASIEST way to do it. Start looking on craigslist and fb marketplace, and have $3000 ready to drop on a car.
Find a salvage title, beat up integra, with a running engine. Drive it home, and start taking everything off the integra.
Motor
Trans
Axles
Wiring harness
ECU (important)
Shift linkage
While you have the car, might as well take;
Seats
Front brakes
Rear brakes
Rear sway bar
Everything else is up to you;
Headers
Intake
Exhaust
Suspension
Tires
Oh, and the most important thing you need?
PATIENCE. This will take WAY longer than you think it will. My engine swap took me 3 months, I thought it would take 2 weeks. Be realistic with your skills and experience.
Godspeed, my child.
You will need, bare minimum;
a donor integra.
That's it.
That is the EASIEST way to do it. Start looking on craigslist and fb marketplace, and have $3000 ready to drop on a car.
Find a salvage title, beat up integra, with a running engine. Drive it home, and start taking everything off the integra.
Motor
Trans
Axles
Wiring harness
ECU (important)
Shift linkage
While you have the car, might as well take;
Seats
Front brakes
Rear brakes
Rear sway bar
Everything else is up to you;
Headers
Intake
Exhaust
Suspension
Tires
Oh, and the most important thing you need?
PATIENCE. This will take WAY longer than you think it will. My engine swap took me 3 months, I thought it would take 2 weeks. Be realistic with your skills and experience.
Godspeed, my child.
"Never sell anything ever, and also buy duplicates of anything important."
Get that hoarder mindset! lol...
On a related note I have a home media server currently sitting at ~15TB worth of movies, TV, books, etc - With a mirror backup. Because I'm paranoid like that lol.
Get that hoarder mindset! lol...
On a related note I have a home media server currently sitting at ~15TB worth of movies, TV, books, etc - With a mirror backup. Because I'm paranoid like that lol.

Some other little details...
b-series has bigger radiator hoses than d-series requiring Integra radiator (full width) & hoses, del-sol or EK B16 radiator, or aftermarket radiator with bigger inlet/outlet is available (civic size, thicker core)
integra frt calipers have bigger slave cylinders req. Bigger Integra brake master-cylinder, matching booster & proportioning valve... calipers noticeably heavier than civics.. but it's the knuckles mounting them that allows for bigger discs; I noticed my eg civic frt brake pads were shared with early Honda Odessey so the calipers are also fine for bigger discs if you have an appropriate knuckle... pad size difference to dc2/dc4 negligible, though there's always the even heavier 'type-R' CRV fit calipers...for even bigger disc rotors.
Integra axles may also have a different spline pattern into the hub in the knuckle? No issue for those also swaping to the Integra frt knuckes..
b-series has bigger radiator hoses than d-series requiring Integra radiator (full width) & hoses, del-sol or EK B16 radiator, or aftermarket radiator with bigger inlet/outlet is available (civic size, thicker core)
integra frt calipers have bigger slave cylinders req. Bigger Integra brake master-cylinder, matching booster & proportioning valve... calipers noticeably heavier than civics.. but it's the knuckles mounting them that allows for bigger discs; I noticed my eg civic frt brake pads were shared with early Honda Odessey so the calipers are also fine for bigger discs if you have an appropriate knuckle... pad size difference to dc2/dc4 negligible, though there's always the even heavier 'type-R' CRV fit calipers...for even bigger disc rotors.
Integra axles may also have a different spline pattern into the hub in the knuckle? No issue for those also swaping to the Integra frt knuckes..
Some other little details...
b-series has bigger radiator hoses than d-series requiring Integra radiator (full width) & hoses, del-sol or EK B16 radiator, or aftermarket radiator with bigger inlet/outlet is available (civic size, thicker core)
integra frt calipers have bigger slave cylinders req. Bigger Integra brake master-cylinder, matching booster & proportioning valve... calipers noticeably heavier than civics.. but it's the knuckles mounting them that allows for bigger discs; I noticed my eg civic frt brake pads were shared with early Honda Odessey so the calipers are also fine for bigger discs if you have an appropriate knuckle... pad size difference to dc2/dc4 negligible, though there's always the even heavier 'type-R' CRV fit calipers...for even bigger disc rotors.
Integra axles may also have a different spline pattern into the hub in the knuckle? No issue for those also swaping to the Integra frt knuckes..
b-series has bigger radiator hoses than d-series requiring Integra radiator (full width) & hoses, del-sol or EK B16 radiator, or aftermarket radiator with bigger inlet/outlet is available (civic size, thicker core)
integra frt calipers have bigger slave cylinders req. Bigger Integra brake master-cylinder, matching booster & proportioning valve... calipers noticeably heavier than civics.. but it's the knuckles mounting them that allows for bigger discs; I noticed my eg civic frt brake pads were shared with early Honda Odessey so the calipers are also fine for bigger discs if you have an appropriate knuckle... pad size difference to dc2/dc4 negligible, though there's always the even heavier 'type-R' CRV fit calipers...for even bigger disc rotors.
Integra axles may also have a different spline pattern into the hub in the knuckle? No issue for those also swaping to the Integra frt knuckes..
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