I have a 91 accord and the power windows just stopped working all of a sudden. I checked the 4 fuses in the under hood fuse box. With key in ON position, none of them are getting power. I know the relay is good, so I tested the relay sockets.

T/R: No power
B/R: 12 volts
T/L : no power
B/L : Continuity to ground

From the forums I’ve been on, one thread talked about the same problem I had. The top left pin on the relay socket should be getting 12 volts, but it’s only getting .58 volts. I’m getting power from fuse no.5 in under dash fuse box.
The thread I seen said their is an open in the YEL/GRN wire going from fuse 5 to top left pin of relay socket. I’m just wondering, where does the wire from fuse no.5 make it’s way to the under hood fuse box? Is it the harness part that comes into engine bay from drivers side firewall or the harness going into passenger side firewall? I need to locate this wire.


This part of the harness goes through the pass. Side firewall.

This is the harness coming from the drivers side firewall

 

1. Under-dash Fuse No. 5 doesn't have anything to do with the power window circuit.



2. Power to the Yel/Grn wire comes from the Integrated Control Unit (attached to the under-dash fuse box). Power to that part of the ICU comes from Under-hood Fuse No. 22.






3. The wire routing is from the engine main wire harness into the passenger side firewall.

 

Ignition switch likely needs to be in the on position for power to be allowed through the Yel/Grn wire. So, test it with the ignition in the on position.

 

My readings aren’t adding up to what the schematics show for the relay socket wiring?

the two left are right on your schematic but the two right ones seem to be opposite. I don’t think that matters too much?

And the YEL/GRN wire comes from the icu to the top left relay pin from the passenger side harness?

 

This is what it should be reading

This is basically what mine is reading. Someone else’s was doing the same thing and they swapped the ICU but it didn’t fix anything.

 

1. You can test for continuity on the yellow/grn wire between Connector C403, terminal no. 15 to the power window relay pin.

2. If there is continuity on the wire, another option would be to just re-route power through that wire from another power source that get power when the ignition switch is in the run position.

 

The purpose of power from the ICU to the power window relay was just mainly to allow the power windows to still work for a limited amount of time after the ignition switch was no longer in the on position.

 

@tech8 I tested for continuity like you said from the YEL/GRN wire to the top left relay socket, and yes, it had perfect continuity. So this begs the question, is the icu not getting power from a wire for the power window part? Or is the icu messed up itself?
The only other issue I have with my car that I know of is the cooling fan problem but I’m going to buy another timer unit real soon and hopefully it fixes that issue.

 

I did have a wire wrapped around fuse leg no.5 from the side that’s not supplying power so if anything did go wrong the fuse would blow and nothing would melt. All the windows were working with wire around fuse 5 in under dash to top left relay socket, but i just wanted to really see what’s wrong with it and make sure their is no open wires etc.

 

Since the Yel/Grn wire has good continuity, there is either an issue with the ICU or something is causing the ICU to not provide power through that wire to the power window relay.

When ignition switch is no longer in the on position, it supposedly provides power for about 10 minutes unless the front driver or front passenger doors are opened. In that case the door switch will send a ground to the ICU, and the ICU stops sending power to the power window relay. If the ICU is not faulty, it could possibly be one of the front door switches is sending ground to the ICU and the ICU then cuts power to the relay. Or even a short to ground in the wire going to the ICU.

You can disconnect the front door switches to see if the same issue exist; or just test for continuity to ground on the wires going to the ICU from the door switches. Front driver's door switch wire goes to terminal no. 1 of Connector C502 (at the back of the under-dash fuse box). Front passenger door switch wire goes to terminal no. 5 of Connector C403 at the ICU.

 

Disconnect the wire wrapped around the power window relay first before checking the front door switches and ICU. If by some chance, the ICU then sends power through the Yel/Grn wire while you have the relay leg powered from a different source, you may damage wires and/or components.

 

I’ve been busy for the past couple days. I had to help my brother move but later today I will check it out for sure and let you know the results.

 

@tech8 So I checked out the BLU/GRN wire and it doesn’t have continuity, the multimeter read around 45.
The RED/GRN Wire from the ICU had continuity to ground so I unplugged the door switch and it didn’t read continuity anymore. The car started to make a beeping noise when I unplugged it which I assume is supposed to happen.
But the YEL/GRN wire still doesn’t have 12v.
I really want to find out what the issue is but if this is too much for you we can just figure out another way to wire it