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I own a cheap 96 hatch (d16y7 non-vtec) and blew a hole in the block not too long ago. I have mechanical experience, but I've never swapped an engine before. I mostly understand what I'm doing and what I need but I'm just curious if the VTEC-E swap will require anything different than a regular vtec swap. I also toy with just b swapping, but I'm in college and a more economic car is important for the time being. Anyways, I just want to know if there is anything too specific I have to watch out for or should know.
Yes, the VTEC-E swap will require additional wiring for the wideband O2 sensor and VTEC components... and it will require an ECU that matches the engine.
Yes, the VTEC-E swap will require additional wiring for the wideband O2 sensor and VTEC components... and it will require an ECU that matches the engine.
I don't know the obd2 setups, do they have an EGR by default or none at all? I know on obd1 only the vtec-e had an egr so it made it even more unique.
I don't know the obd2 setups, do they have an EGR by default or none at all? I know on obd1 only the vtec-e had an egr so it made it even more unique.
You know, I honestly don't remember. It likely has one... so adding wiring for this would also be necessary. Remember TomCat39 that I am a Honda "Performance" guy... and there is NOTHING "Performance" about a D16Y5 !!! I understand that there are people out there that would consider this swap so that they can improve fuel economy, so for those, all of the wiring effort may be worth it to convert a chassis. However, for the guy that needs to replace an engine, and this is the one that they came up with... this is a BAD plan.
You know, I honestly don't remember. It likely has one... so adding wiring for this would also be necessary. Remember TomCat39 that I am a Honda "Performance" guy... and there is NOTHING "Performance" about a D16Y5 !!! I understand that there are people out there that would consider this swap so that they can improve fuel economy, so for those, all of the wiring effort may be worth it to convert a chassis. However, for the guy that needs to replace an engine, and this is the one that they came up with... this is a BAD plan.
I remember there was a Civic project car here several years ago that was built for the purpose of maximizing MPG - Had a freshly rebuilt VTEC-E engine, tall gear ratios, a bunch of aero mods, high PSI tires, etc. If I remember right I think he was getting like 60+ MPG combined.
Thinking about how the looms are routed, I think it's fairly likely that you can swap from a Y7 to a Y5 as long as you bring the Y5 loom over with the engine. My only real concern would be C131. Everything else should run through the engine loom, so it should be relatively plug & play.
Looking at the manual, you've got three pins to sort out on C131 - everything else is the same:
Translation: pins 2, 3, and 5 may be different. If your car is a manual trans, these are all non-issues or empty cavities.
Other good news - ALL Y5s are effectively OBD2A, but be aware that there is some funniness going on at this connector if you try and plug a 99-00 engine harness into a 96 chassis.
No matter what, you must use the correct Y5 ecu for your year car.