I did a wire tuck put in the motor and I’m running the battery in the back but put it in the front to try to start it. I ran the fuse box wire to the bottom of the positive terminal and the power wire is ran to the starter. But it won’t even crank

I soldered and extended the wire that goes from the engine loom to the fuse box which is in the airbag spot in the dash.

is it my wiring or what? The starter gets 11.9 volts when I test the connection

Oh and when I turn the key to the second position the cel never turns off

 

Doing a tuck, sounds like you touched a lot of wires..... I don't think too many folks will be comfortable trying to advise not knowing what was touched and what was not.

 

It was a headlight harness tuck I only extended two wires relocated the battery and just re routed some wires it wasn’t anything crazy. My first time doing it but everything works besides this issue.

I think it has something to do with the battery relocation but idk I’m stumped. The starter doesn’t even click

Can a bad tranny ground make it not crank?

 

Yes it can. Also the negative terminal of the battery is normally connected to the the engine bay metal which is solidly welded to the frame rails etc. It could be a challenge getting the same grounding effect of the negative battery terminal in the trunk area.

 

9 times of 10 I forget to re attach the transmission ground, and that will prevent it from cranking I tell you what lol
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1 time out of 10 the solenoid relay wire gets bumped and disconnected.

 

So the battery is in the front right now cause I was testing the tps. Battery ground is good. Everything turns on as it should. Or could the battery ground not be strong enough to crank but can turn on accessories? When I put it in the front it didn’t get power but I moved ground to the stock location then I got power.

I don’t think its the solenoid wire it gets 11.9 volts power along with the starter ground and the engine wire I extended out to the fuse box.

Im stumped I’m gonna check clutch safety switch maybe jump it i just doubt it went bad in like 6 months but I’ll see, also I’m gonna try to jump the starter I just gotta find a jumper wire

 

And anybody know why the cel stays on solid since I hooked the power back up? The swap hasnt started in a few years. Its a b16 swap out of a fully running and driving car I parked about two years ago. I threw it in my car which hasn’t run in about 6 months

When I turn the key, the main relay clicks I can hear that. But the cel stays solid and of course no crank no start

 

ECU isn't getting power most likely. Tho it should still crank

 

Looks like I unplugged the clutch safety switch when I was wire tucking smh lol. Should crank now but i don’t think it’ll start cause I still get that solid cel

 

Got the car to start it was the clutch safety switch not being plugged in. Ran not good tho and apparently it’s leaking from the head gasket area.. I took off the vtec solenoid to clean it out and clear a code but I don’t think that’s what’s leaking I wiped off the residual oil and it’s leaking from there as pictured..

What’s going on? could it be cause the head bolts aren’t tightened enough? The motor never leaked in my other car

 

I would think it's more likely the distributor seal. A compression test will tell you if the head bolts are an issue.

 

Dizzy o ring huh. Or maybe the vtec solenoid gasket didn’t seat too well. Gonna try to find a vtec solenoid at the junkyard would a d16z6 one work? Or should I just replace the pressure switch.. Throws code 21

Idle is at 3k so I’m gonna hopefully finally properly calibrate tps, and readjust fitv I adjusted the plunger all the way down when cleaning the tb but when it was in the other car it never idled liked that so I’m gonna turn it back in where it was. Get some coolant, dizzy oring and maybe I’ll be in a happier place

From wire tucking to core support replacement to sound deadening removal to shaving the bay, engine, cabin, jams fully painted, 2 swaps, and only one man lol

 

I doubt a b series vtec solenoid matches a d series.

The FITV definitely controls idle when cold and if you screwed it all the way down, it's letting in more air than normal. IACV can only make up for so much.

I too know the one man team routine. Probably why I've mellowed out on doing car work. Doing a bit more again but not rushing anything.

 

 

Ok so idk what’s going on. It still leaks in that area and the underside of the dizzy and vtec solenoid are bone dry.

I got rid of the cel codes theres only code 41 which is o2 sensor could that be the problem?

Tps is fully calibrated

When I crank it, it barely wants to start, but it does and when I hold the throttle 1/4 inch open it makes a loping sound and doesn’t increase in rpm speed at all. It will rev to 4k but I don’t want to go any further. And with a sputtering idle from 1400-1800

Could my dizzy be 180 out? I did take it out

 

UPDATE: Turned the dizzy 180 degrees now the car won’t start and when it cranks it sounds different

 

compression test might give you some info

 

I feel like it has something to do with the ignition.. Like I got firing order wrong or the dizzy is on wrong but I tried putting it on 3 three different ways.

Bottom left wire is #1 the longest plug wire which the order goes 3 4 this is correct right?
1 2
I can do a compression test but the motor was fine in the other car all it did was sit. And it will start it just misfires and idle is sporadic

 

I know the d-series firing order is 1/3/4/2 and I have a feeling that sticks throughout Honda 4 bangers. Below is the dizzy setup for the D. I think it might be the same on the B for Dizzy orientation:

 

It jumped timing by 3 teeth

 

ouch