Hello,

Just picked up this a few weeks ago as a beater so I wouldn't have to drive my F250 daily with the way fuel prices in California are currently. Plus I'm currently in the process of replacing the engine in that SMDH. Anyways, figured this would be a great beater and possibly my entrance back into Hondas. Car ran great for about a weeks worth of driving. I noticed a slight misfire so I changed the plugs with NGK Iridiums. The very next day in the morning the car wouldn't start. I jumped the diagnostic plug and got a code 15 for ignition output signal. So I replaced the distributor cap and rotor. Car fired right up. Code was still present tho. I drove the car around that day to a friends house about 10 minutes away chilled there a few hours then drove home later that night. Next morning I go to start the car and won't start. Since code 15 was still present I decided to go to the junkyard and pull a distributor. I did so and the car ran. Drove it around for 20 minutes went to go put some tires on the car. Leaving the tire shop the car did have a lack of power due to misfiring but cleared up a few seconds later then drove fine. Went back home then went to a birthday party for a few hours. Car ran well there and back home. Next morning wake up to head to my window tint appt and same thing car would not start. I checked the continuity of the wiring from the small plug on the dizzy and took the voltage it read as it should. At this point I still had the code 15 so I bit the bullet and went to auto zone and bought a durlast distributor. Code 15 was gone now but car still didn't start with the new dizzy. So back to the junkyard to get a ecu. Get the ecu in the car and it runs. Took it for a drive around and it died after it got to operating temp. I decided to solder the connections that looked bad on the main relay. Took it for a drive, still dies once warm. I walked home, got on my motorcycle and went to auto zone to buy a main relay. I get back to the car and start it with the current relay still in place. Drive it to my house and park it. Walk back down to get my motorcycle. Once I get back to the car I try to start it and it won't start. Which is what I hoped for. So I pop the new relay in place expecting it to be the fix and the car to start and it still doesn't start. So at this point I'm done fooling with it for a few days and planned to tow it to a buddies house. Already took the valve cover off and made sure timing was lined up properly and it is spot on. Used a timing light and confirmed that to be a fact. Today I just got it to run until it died and verified my engine coolant temp sensor was reading .5-.7vdc and it was in that range.I probed plus A26 brw/blk (logic ground) and D13 red/wht (ECT). So I ruled out wasting money on a new coolant temp sensor. This is where I am now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. At this point I'm close to just saying screw it and ordering everything to put a K24A2 in the car and going to the junkyard and pulling a 5 speed swap out of another Accord.

Just to add a few things even before swapping the relay I could hear it click under the dash as it is intended and felt a vibration under my feet as if the fun pump was priming and sending fuel to the fuel rail. I have yet to have an extra set of hands present to check for spark once the car gets to where it doesn't start. So along with any other suggestions I get I will check for spark during the no start condition when I get a hand.

 

Try testing the temperature sensor..

 

I tested it at the ecu. I got .6-.7v both times I tested it today.

 

Sorry I meant to say try swapping out the temp sensor. Could rob one or a couple from the wreckers if your close by one.. You had already mentioned testing but just curious if you tested it when the engine was cold and when hot.
I usually stock up on random sensors when I hit up the wreckers.. get them for dirt cheap or free.
Also kinda dumb thing but check over your battery grounds and all other grounds aswell. They can tend to cause mysterious problems..

 

I tested it while the engine was still warm and in a no start condition. I can go grab a few from the junkyard tomorrow.

 

Edited my post.. you were too quick lol

 

Lol. Yea, I'm pretty motivated to get the daily back on the road. So I was watching the thread like a hawk.

 

Check out your igniter module inside your distributor, when mine was bad it did exactly this. Wouldn't be able to start back the car either until it cooled down.

Rockauto might have cheap replacements if you need to, but can probably test yours first. I'm no mechanic but I was able to get my distributor off and the igniter swapped in about 20 mins or so

Just be sure to mark your timing

 

I replaced the distributor all together a few weeks ago. Problem still persists.

 

Your situation is a bit of a head scratcher.. I am wondering if your IACV is sticking??? You could try cleaning it. You've gone through dizzy to dizzy so pretty sure you have spark, main relay is checked off and most honda fuel pumps tend to last forever so you most likely have fuel..

 

I have yet to pull the IACV off and check it. I started to one day but, just didn't feel like fooling with it anymore. I'll get back there and bang my hands up pulling it off tomorrow lol.

 

Good evening all. Got the car back from a friend of a friend because. I was extremely busy with working on motorcycles. Anyways he didn't do much of anything. As I had already did everything he could think of to fix the issue at hand. While he did do a timing kit while he had it. He did some troubleshooting and just like I told him, the car was loosing spark after it got to operating temp. Then that issue was corrected by going to exchange the dizzy. Once that was replaced it stopped holding idle. The idle screw on the throttle body was damaged and siliconed so, I went to the junkyard and pulled off a throttle body and IACV. Neither one fixed the issue. Once the car is warm it WILL NOT hold idle. It will stall out. It will typically start back up but coming to a stop you must put it in neutral and press the gas to keep it from dying. Once it starts doing that it is sometimes fairly difficult to start back up. Taking off from a stop low rpms it feels like it runs extremely rough kinda jerky, I'm assuming it still has a spark issue in that area. once you are going above say 10mph or so it seems fine. I'm stumped on what the cause is now.

The guy that I allowed to work on it was dead set on just throwing parts at it without actually doing any diagnostics. He wanted to just replace the fuel pump. But, I kept refusing without him actually testing the fuel pressure. Does anyone think that could be a cause of my continuing symptoms or should I start looking at something else. Or perhaps getting yet another dizzy?