Hi everyone. Im having an electrical issue.

This started with a crankshaft position sensor.
An intermittent shut down was happening during hot weather. Finally it went and died on me. Problem wasn't the crank sensor it was the pigtail. It was clogged with oil and road grime. I changed the crank sensor, pigtail, gaskets and the plastic housing since it was cracked.

Now the new code is:

p0336
crankshaft position sensor
A circuit range/performance

The car drives now, its hard to start and rough idle. Im sure i need to time it. I might have lost position...

I believe there is a ground issue.

Can someone post all engine bay grounds for the 2001-2002 honda civic ex manual 7th gen

This image is poor but its all i could find.
i believe the issue is coming from the lower part of this image. The ground on the right side. I will change and fix every single one if i have to. Yet i cannot find anything with all the locations of grounds.

My battery is on the front left side of the vehicles engine bay. Like the image below


Most images i have found have the battery in the rear left side

Any suggestion or help will be much appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

 

This is why i think its a ground problem.
What is crankshaft position sensor A circuit range performance?
Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0336 stands for “Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Range/Performance.” This engine code is set when the PCM receives a signal from the crankshaft position sensor that deviates from specification.Feb 6, 2022

If its not a ground I'm going to have to learn to use a meter...
What is the resistance range for crank speed sensor?
If the internal resistance value is 200 to 1,000 ohms (depending on the reference value), the sensor is OK. If the value is 0 ohms, there is a short circuit, and in the case of M Ohm there is an interruption.

What should the voltage be on a crank sensor?
Your meter should read between 5 and 13 volts. Consult your vehicle repair manual for the reference voltage value for your particular model. If your reference voltage is lower than expected or zero, check the wire and connector for damage, or a loose terminal.Dec 22, 2022

What repairs can fix the P0336 code?

1. a damaged reluctor wheel. "Mine Looks fine"
2. Repairing or replacing a damaged crankshaft position sensor wiring or circuitry.
3. Repairing or replacing damage or corrosion of the crankshaft position sensor connector. "Replaced mine"
4. Repairing or replacing the crankshaft position sensor wiring harness.

 

Are you using an OEM CKP Sensor? These cars need OEM sensors.

 

Just wondering , when you replaced the CPS pigtail , did you splice it into the engine harnness using some sort of crimp on connectors , or did you properly solder each of the pigtail wires properly and cleanly? As well as follow up by completely protecting each wires splice with quality shrink wrap, rewrap it in the original wire loom , tape it back up and make sure before snapping the connector on to the sensor did you make sure the harness was routed and secured properly ? Sounds like to someone experienced as stupid questions possibly in some people's eyes , but I can't even recall how many wiring harness splices done at some point in countless cars lives that were done improperly by whoever did the work , that I had to completely redo the proper way and ended up succefully fixed what ever driveability issues the vehicle was brought in by the customer to have fixed. If you used butt or other crimp connectors by any chance , id honestly cut them out and redo the splice job of the CPS pigtail soldering the wires this time around properly as butt connector harness splice jobs done with crimp on connectors are not the proper way to ever splice wires together , especially in an engine harness where most of the connectors plug into some sort of an engine management sensor of some type or another.

About the ground locations , man , my mom had a 2001 Ex brand new that I exclusively did every single repair on for it's entire long life that she only just got rid of finally about 4 years ago , and man I have that engine bay burned into my memory for ever I was on it so many times , but my brain is not being very effective right now in specifically remembering all tje exact drivetrain grounding locations perfectly at this moment , but if I'm not mistaken , which I very well may be and I'm sorry truly if thats the case but I want to say that there i know was a ground on the top of the transmission that was closer towards the rear most general area of the top of the transmission , and I think that ground led Into the primary engine harness wire loom that runs across that exact area , travels inside the loom coming back out of the loom somewhere on the side of the passenger strut tower area close to the fuse box. Another one was bolted to the engine over near the power steering pump general area , can't remember if that particular D series motor had that ground bolt to the valve cover of the cylinder head , but it shouldmt be hard to find what so ever as there is a ground in that general area of the engine on almost every single D and B series motor , and every one I remember seeing was right there out in the open basicslly , ya really cant miss it. Those are the general locations of both of the primary engine and transmission grounds , how ever if I'm not mistaken I want to say I recall there also being a smaller ground that comes out of the part of the engine harness that routes near the intake manifold and has a small ground coming out that fastens to the top side of the intake manifold on the top of one of the runners and is fastened with a 6mmx1.0 short bolt with a standard hex 10mm head on it. There also is of course the primary thick ground that connects from the negative battery terminal down to some where on the side of the passenger side apron and also is very easy to locate , it's bolted to the apron close to the area of the P/S resorvoir and transmission mount local area , just peak around in there with a good rechargeable work light and It should be easy to find , all the grounds that I can recall that bolt to the transmission and the engine are accessable easily from the top of the engine bay as i dont recall it ever having one that Id had to access from underneath the car if my memory serves me correct.
now just one thing I wanna mention quick , if you really can't find any of the grounds or a ground that you are looking for and believe has gone bad , or you do see where it is but it's kind of a b*tch to get to and given your working on pretty old car that is your own and not a customers and ya want to make the job as easy as possible to repair an unknown bad ground , as long as your fine with a very slight modification at the time that will not ever damage any thing or cause any problems of any type , as you just want the dang car to be driveabke and thats all ya really care about, then you technically do not have to get at a specific ground that is bad and maybe ya don't wanna bother with having to potentially remove some parts to properly access the ground and really just want the dang car to work then .... As long as the ground needing replacement is one of the 2 or 3 really thick grounds the only literally bolt to the engine or trans and directly from there to some where on the actual structure of the vehicle in the engine bay and of the ground is a strap style ground and not one that's part of the harness then you can absolutely make your own grounds very very easily from like a section of battery cable and proper sized large thick ring terminals that you can get at autozone or a similar place , takes a few minutes only to make a solid reliable ground of this type. Then simply find a location on the engine and or transmission that js bare metal and has a small 6mmx1.0 or 8mmx1.25 threaded hole just chillin there unused , as long as rhere is another unused thread similar sized smaller hole on some part of the metal unibody structure that is close enough to the other hole you found , you can honestly just put your own ground in there and as long as your connection points are bare and clean it will literally do the exact same thing that the failed original ground did , and your new homemade ground if done right will last forever with. And if you are willing to do just a hair more work maybe cause you can't find any unused pre threaded holes to use anywhere , you literally can simply drill and tap your own small holes to bolt your own custom ground in , and boom your all done and that repair will work just as good as the original did and ya saved saved yourself the hastle and time it woulda been needed if ya chose to dig out that broken ground, so yeah if you really just want your damn car to run and drive it's not a 5 year old vehicle with only 34k miles or some sh*t then just make up a couple of your own grounds quick , find a legit safe place to bolt them in properly then I'd just go that route honestly , I've done this very thing a good few times on my families old high mileage vehicles where they simply didnt care and just wanted them to be driveable , function over fashion sometime is the best or most sensible way to go .
I wish you good luck .