I have a 2000 Accord LX 4cyl manual trans with 330+ thousand miles on it. Over the last few months the clutch has started chattering and slipping, which had gotten worse since I replaced the engine mounts, so I'm going to have to roll up my sleeves and do the clutch job.

What I'm wondering is if I should go ahead and change out the flywheel while I'm at it... I don't know how likely it is that the flywheel will still be good. But I do know I'd like to order everything I'm going to need so I don't have to stop and wait on parts, that'll sap my motivation everytime. I'd appreciate any input.

 

If you can afford a new flywheel, get one. It will make better contact with the clutch disk.

It's not too challenging of a job. I recommend ac delco manual transmission fluid with friction modifier. Its like Hondas older mtf.

That many miles, might find bad bushings, ball joints, axels, seals.

 

I second the decision to change the flywheel. No need to go for some fancy flywheel or super ultra lightweight racing one, just a basic flywheel is fine if you not heavily modded.

You definitely will also want to change your release/throwout bearing and pilot bearing if it doesnt come with the clutch. Most kits usually come with clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, release bearing. I am 100% for using exedy clutches if you can afford it. EXEDY HCK1000

rockauto.com should have good prices on any parts you need

Also be sure to grease and seal up everything well while down there and use that clutch alignment tool, it is your friend lol

 

Thanks for the input, that's just the kind of advice and tips I was hoping to recieve.

 

Oh! final point. Change the rear main seal (rear crankshaft seal) since you will already have access to it, and it is the only time you will get there.

OEM honda is great, I have also had luck with fel-pro seals. You won't regret that.

Also, be sure to grease up the axles before putting them back

 

Oh dude buy a little tranny jack smallest one to the ground at like harbor freight.
I did mine the fist time and I couldn't get the tranny back on the engine for a long time... you know mabe like 5 or 6 hours or something
man I got that tranny jack it went in like 10 minutes or mabe 20
I tried using 2 low pro jacks (1to hold the car up) but no luck kept slipping getting stuck places

another thing dont let that tranny fluid leak out after you drop it..

that tranny jack will help with the ball joints to, jack that thing up slide it right out

 

another place I got stuck is when I put the axles back in one of them was to long.. you need to spin it and hit it with a hammer, because something inside doesn't line up. Jack it up to make it easier

 

I actually just waited on the fly wheel untill o could inspect it, then I bought one at autozone

 

This is something I've been thinking about quite a bit- it being possible to get the transmission out (and back in) through the bottom by just jacking the car up. I imagine it's going to require plenty of space under the car to do it.

Btw, thanks for all of the advice, especially things like the trans lift and axle trouble, etc.

 

x2 on the trans jack. Bench pressing it is no fun. It sure does make it 1000x easier to wriggle it back on.

 

So everything was going smoothly until I couldn't find the torque specs for the main seal bracket plate bolts, i guessed 10-15 lbs, starting with 10. Before I got there the head snapped off the bolt in the bottom left corner. This is after I cleaned and resealed the bracket and tighten all bolts to snug. The last thing I want to do is take this plate off, re-clean all of the rtv and fight with a broken bolt. This jobs already taken too long and I'm considering just leaving it. Anyone else ever go without one of these bolts? If so was it ok or did it developed a leak?

 

You should replace the bolt.. last thing you want is a leak inside there.. might be ok but why risk it. Buy some honda bond, it's better than basic rtv sealant. Removing the housing plate cover with the new seal in it will be a breeze and it's on a few little bolts..should be able to spin the broken stud out no prob aswell once the cover is off.
10lbs was too much, should've done 6lbs. Would've been cheaper just to get the flywheel resurfaced but you got a new one so..
Ps: You can use the axle like a slide hammer itself when popping them back it the tranny, get it started in the hole as far as you can then just pull the axle out a little then give it a good shove, it will click right in. Don't use a hammer!

 

Thanks for the advice, I'm forced to take my chances with the broken bolt, i don't have the time or tools to deal with it right now. Maybe I'l get lucky and never hear from it again.

I have run into a seriously puzzling issue tho. Idk what the tolerances are between the flywheel and inside of the bell housing right next to the axle port, but there teeth on this new flywheel appear as tho they're invading that area. (See pic). I measured the radius of the old flywheel and its the same as the new (6 inches to center), so idk what's going on. Could I have cranked the crank shaft crooked taking off the transmission? I took it straight off with a trans jack, it was never hanging on the center shaft best i could tell. Idk.

 

Measure the outside diameter of flywheels and compare. Measuring to the center is a bit hard when there's just a hole in the middle. That looks too close. Is it full seated on the crank with the bolts in all the way?
You could try just pulling your spark plugs and rotate the motor to see if it hits. They do come close from factory but that looks off.

 

Bolts are fully installed and torqued (76 ft lbs as stated on torque sheet, torqued to 25, then 50, then 76), no problems there, went very smooth.
Both flywheels have a diameter of 12 inches, minus a vary slight bit of the old ones teeth tips do to wear (that's what it looks like anyway). It appears to be the correct flywheel comparing and measuring them side by side, I'll double check the part number this evening.

With the test your suggesting are you thinking it might make contact while turning? It does clear everything right now, it was spinning on me a little when torquing the bolts. Im more worried about it hitting or rubbing the bell housing when reinstalling the trans... unless i misunderstood your test suggestion.


Edit: The flywheel sticks out away from the engine block enough to clear everything, if it's going to make contact it'll be when the trans is back on. This may be obvious but I realized the angle of the picture makes it look like it's already touching the inside wall.

 

Bolt it up and rock'nroll.. should be good to go. Yes the pic angle does make it look like it's hitting nearly!

 

Something I found that put my mind at ease, if you enlarge that pic you can see the line of where the bell housing mates with the engine and it clears. It's close, but it'll clear.

 

The never ending clutch job. Having aggravation spasms trying to get the passenger side axle in.place...It seems to lock in, but not all the way. There's like a 1/4 of an inch gap between the axle and trans. I tried the slide hammer idea (carefully as I've already had to take the joint apart and reseat the bearings from pulling it out too far while removing it) , that hasn't worked, even while spinning, taking it out and trying again, etc.

I guess I'm not really hoping for any new great ideas, just venting a little, and maybe a little superstitious- hoping by posting this it'll come together right afterwards like my last problem. Between these surprise problems, my limited schedule, and the rain (doing this in my driveway) this may be the longest clutch job ever.

Oh, an interesting side note, while troubleshooting I took off the retainer ring at the end of the spline to see if that's what was getting hung up and tried inserting it without the ring and it still won't seat all the way. Is it possible that something inside that area of the transmission came out of place and is blocking the path? Or is that unlikely?




Here are pics of the axle socket, it appears that this pin (idk what else to call it) is in the path. I've referred to other pictures of Honda transmissions online where you can see this same pin, but if you look at this one you can actually see the grease print the end of my axle left when it made contact. So is this pin out of place, or is it supposed to move out of the way on its own, or..?

 

Job complete!

 

Glad to hear man. How's she running

 

Glad to hear man. How's she running

Take it easy on the clutch for a bit, break it in gently ( no high rpm shifting, no launches, no excess slipping).
Use your parking brake if stopping in traffic on a grade etc for a while, at least 300 miles minimum. It'll last you a lot longer if you do that

 

i'm getting ready to tackle this job. what ever happened with this pin? was it out of place?

 

No, the pin wasn't out of place, I was under the belief that the axle would go all the way in until that little gap closed, but after looking at the axle and the trans socket I discovered that it'll only go in as far as I had it. There's a ledge around the spline at the base and no corresponding recessed area on the transmission for the ledge to rest in. The entire issue started after watching a YT video where a "mechanic" said if there's any gap it's not seated all the way. Watching that created a problem where there wasn't one.