When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a full build B20vtec. 13:1 in compression, Skunk 2 Pro 2 cams. Yes, you understand the point. It makes 240whp on pump gas (98 octane) My problem is it spits oil out of the oil catchcan. Think it creates too much pressure. I have insert AN10 plugs in the to places back on the block, and use the OEM from the camshaftcover.
I have a Nuke Oil catch can whit baffles. https://www.nukeperformance.com/prod...-can-075-liter
I need help and advice in finding the solution that will work best. I drive mostly on the road and trackday.
Do not want a solution where I have to move the battery. Hope there is someone who has a good solution
The valve cover line is an inlet to the crankcase. Leave it attached to the intake tube or put a filter on it.
Is it coming out of the can because the can is full, or all the time? Is the catch can higher than the block fittings? Is the engine healthy (compression/leakdown preformed recently?)?
The valve cover line is an inlet to the crankcase. Leave it attached to the intake tube or put a filter on it.
Is it coming out of the can because the can is full, or all the time? Is the catch can higher than the block fittings? Is the engine healthy (compression/leakdown preformed recently?)?
The compression and leakdown are as they should be.
The engine is newly built and in good shape.
I only have OEM breathing on the camcover, I have connected it to a y-block together with one of the two plugs with AN10 that goes out the back of the block. I suspect this setup is not entirely good. In addition, the filter size of the catch can is not that large. Here I think it would have been an advantage with a catch can as a larger pipe to the filter to prevent back pressure.
This is just an assumption
No. Then do you think I insert two An10 from the front of the valve cover? Shouldn't a B20V have ventilation from the block?
What if I only use one of the block port on the back of the block and one from the front of the valve cover?
That part is debated so much that I honestly don't have a good answer for the block vent. But I do recall posts from cars that are road raced having issues with venting from the back of the block only to have the issues go away by venting from the valve cover. Using two parts welded to the front of the valve cover stopped a lot of the issues I was having on my car. The baffle up front inside the valve cover seems to help prevent oil from being pushed out provided the motor is healthy.
The compression and leakdown are as they should be.
The engine is newly built and in good shape.
I only have OEM breathing on the camcover, I have connected it to a y-block together with one of the two plugs with AN10 that goes out the back of the block. I suspect this setup is not entirely good. In addition, the filter size of the catch can is not that large. Here I think it would have been an advantage with a catch can as a larger pipe to the filter to prevent back pressure.
This is just an assumption
At least part of the issue is that the vtec valve cover does not have any provisions for breathing - just an inlet. The B20B/Z forgo the 'black box' on the back on other B-series engines for a baffled cover that does the same job.
As posted above, you need some way to separate the vapors. A recirculating system would be ideal for a mixed-use setup like yours. Some use baffles, some use media, some use both. Some are really well designed, most are not. Direct vented cans aren't great for much more than a drag car, IMO, there are quite a few benefits to using a recirculating system on anything that sees circuit and/or street - especially NA. One -10 off the back of the block or from the valve cover with a PCV and -6 back to the valve cover is more than enough capacity for an NA b-series.
Mighty Mouse Solutions (https://www.mightymousesolutions.com/) makes a really nice setup that recirculates and can 'blow off' under wot conditions via a checked filter. Radium Engineering and Chase Bays have nice recirculating kits available too. wunfstgsr's Level 7 oil cap is another cool option for a plug and play solution. All of these have some method to separate the air from the vapors.
Definitely check out the site I linked above. He's the only guy that I've seen publishing his actual data. Plenty of catch can tech to nerd out on there.
At least part of the issue is that the vtec valve cover does not have any provisions for breathing - just an inlet. The B20B/Z forgo the 'black box' on the back on other B-series engines for a baffled cover that does the same job.
As posted above, you need some way to separate the vapors. A recirculating system would be ideal for a mixed-use setup like yours. Some use baffles, some use media, some use both. Some are really well designed, most are not. Direct vented cans aren't great for much more than a drag car, IMO, there are quite a few benefits to using a recirculating system on anything that sees circuit and/or street - especially NA. One -10 off the back of the block or from the valve cover with a PCV and -6 back to the valve cover is more than enough capacity for an NA b-series.
Mighty Mouse Solutions (https://www.mightymousesolutions.com/) makes a really nice setup that recirculates and can 'blow off' under wot conditions via a checked filter. Radium Engineering and Chase Bays have nice recirculating kits available too. wunfstgsr's Level 7 oil cap is another cool option for a plug and play solution. All of these have some method to separate the air from the vapors.
Definitely check out the site I linked above. He's the only guy that I've seen publishing his actual data. Plenty of catch can tech to nerd out on there.
Thanks for the complementary answer :D
My catch can has a recircular system. In addition, it has Atmospheric setup with baffle.
What I have to do is drive an AN10 from the back of the block. I will get QuikVent's setup for the top cover and drive an AN10 from this. In addition, I drain Catch can to oilpan.
How would you set up PCV from the camcover?
PCV should go from the can to the manifold, with a PCV valve. Radium sells -AN PCV valves and MMS has it integrated into the can. PCV should not go to the valve cover, but the fresh air line should go from the valve cover nipple to the intake tube.
Back of the block is the more efficient place for your outlets. If you have them on the valve cover, air will tend to flow in the inlet tube and straight out the outlets, without clearing the oil mist and combustion gasses from the crankcase. They are more useful on a turbo car that generates much more blow-by than an NA car.
PCV should go from the can to the manifold, with a PCV valve. Radium sells -AN PCV valves and MMS has it integrated into the can. PCV should not go to the valve cover, but the fresh air line should go from the valve cover nipple to the intake tube.
Back of the block is the more efficient place for your outlets. If you have them on the valve cover, air will tend to flow in the inlet tube and straight out the outlets, without clearing the oil mist and combustion gasses from the crankcase. They are more useful on a turbo car that generates much more blow-by than an NA car.
Can I put a hose from the OEM outlet on Valvecover with PCV into the intake manifold? My Nuke Catch Can does not have PCV integrated. Do I understand you right when you say that it is best to use two AN10 from the back of the block to Catch Can with Atmospheric setup with baffle, and not add AN10 from the valve cover? Or is it an advantage to take an AN10 from the back of the block and one from the top cover with QuikVent's setup?
No, don't connect the valve cover to the intake manifold. The valve cover allows fresh air into the crankcase. You can't pull vacuum on the crankcase without letting air into the crankcase.
Line from the back of the block, to an air-oil-separator, to a catch can, to the intake manifold (as a vacuum source). You can install a PCV valve after the oil-separator or after the catch can. Do not install it before the oil-separator, otherwise oil won't be able to drain back to the block freely (it'd be like holding water in a straw with your finger plugging one side).
Stop venting to atmosphere, you need vacuum on the crankcase to get rid of oil and gas vapors. Big cams hurt vacuum compared to stock cams. You need as much vacuum as you can get.
You said your current can is draining oil back to the block/pan, keep that there and just install a catch can after it, with a PCV valve.
B20Vtec Oil Catchcan setup
