Running 10 psi on T3/T4. Looking for recommendations on upgraded axles.

Hasport Performance tech claims Insane driveshafts 500 or 1000 hp rating is very obscure at not a good measurement of the axles strength. I mentioned that Insane shafts claims their axles are made up chromoly steel as oppsoed to regular steel of a stock axle I suppose. Hasport claimed factory axles were actually very strong.
What have you guys run and how would you compare Insane shafts to Hasport axles or whatever other axles are out there?

 

I'm using Driveshaft Level 0 axles im around 360 HP haven't had any issues since.

 

Daily driven or you track or frag the car too?

 

If you wheel hop youre going to break any axle. Unless you have a lot of experience launching and slipping your clutch use oem axles untill they start twisting past the 60ft marks

 

^^ this. There's really no need to waste money on axles at your power level OP. Unless you're clutch dumping on slicks without preloading you shouldn't have any issues. OEM or quality aftermarket ones are just fine for majority of applications.

 

The stock axels should be fine for your power level at 10psi of boost on a T3/T4 turbo. You should upgrade your engine mounts and maybe add a traction bar before needing upgraded axles. You should also install a limited slip differential before needing upgraded axels so that the power is going to both wheels.
If you do want to upgrade your axels, Drive Shaft Shop would probably be the strongest, followed by Insane Shafts, then HAsport ones.
If you’ve already broken an axel, be careful how you are launching, because if you upgrade the axels and keep launching that way, then you could break your transmission next. Then the next step would be to upgrade your gears and final drive.
What I would do for 10psi of boost on a T3/T4 turbo is buy Autozone axels with a lifetime warranty, and if you break them, go back to Autozone and get new ones for free.
Also, what is your set up-B series, D series, K series, stock engine mounts, no traction bar, no limited slip differential?

 

Running polyurethane 60A on the 3 main motor mounts(engine doesnt shake at all really which is good because otherwise my radiator fan shroud would be hitting the downpipe), JDM LSD out of a B18 ITR or Spec R or whatever the term is; this JDM LSD mounted to GSR ring gear, carbon sycros from synrcotech (other than that nothing else that would make tranny any stronger than stock just replaced all main bearings and upgraded syncros the gears are still all factory though),
T3/T4 T04E turbo on B18 engine. Do not have a traction bar though.
I am tired of the constant halfway disengagement of axles and constantly having to push them back in. These axles I removed were Oreilys remanned and I think they will eventually break again due to 332 whp.
Was looking for something that would last a little longer but I do understand your point when you say if axles are upgraded then eventually I could start breaking things in the tranny which do not really want to do.
guess it would be nice to have something between insane driveshaft and stock maybe driveshaft shop level 0 (wunfstgsr rec.) would be better than remanned Oreilys axles but still break instead of tranny if really got on it.

Side note I still think may be good to replace intermediate shaft since its got almost 200K miles on it though.

Since I have an LSD would you think tranny would be less likely to break if got upgraded performance axles?

What would be the most probable component to break if upgraded axles transmitted the force into the tranny?

Thanks

 

It would be a good idea to replace your intermediate shaft, it couldn’t hurt, but I’d add a traction bar first.
Since you have an LSD, I think the transmission would be less likely to break than if you didn’t have one.
Most probable component to break would be the final drive I think next.
332WHP is a lot from 10 psi of boost, I just assumed you were making less than 300.
So yeah, your axels might start to go out at that power level, especially remanufactured Oreiley’s, which are worse than stock. That might be the problem, but then I wouldn’t spend the money on a stock Honda axel if you are already at that power level. You could choose the insane shafts or the Drive Shaft Shop for if you ever increase the power. Your transmission should be fine at that power level.
I’d add a traction bar first at that power level, especially if your axle is popping out. The traction bar should keep things more still. Then, if you are still getting the pop out, try upgraded axels next.

 

In my experience every Autozone and Orileys axles popped out eventually. Some work some dont. Look into the Level 0 axles.


ACURA 1994-2001 (DC2/4) Integra Basic Axle Level 0 - Driveshaft Shop

Product Description

1994-2001 Acura Integra Basic Axle Level 0. These are the new Level 0 performance axles. Using a chromoly center bar, a real billet inner cv with a larger oversized tripod and a new heat treat on our 1117 billet outer. The outer cv is custom made with a single arc design; this is a time/wear advantage over the factory Honda dual arc design that tends to wear out prematurely. This is a superior axle for any stock replacement or swap. Axles come with removable ABS rings. These axles are designed as an alternative to cheap re-builts or inferior aftermarket axles on the market today. It is a quality axle and better than any Mount company’s “Swap” axle, it’s just not what we would consider a real racing axle (sorry no warranty against breakage). If you don’t see axles you need just email us, we can make anything. Price listed is for both left and right axles.

 

The good thing about Autozone axles is lifetime warranty. They will swap them without question. You buy them once and basically get axles for life. The first set I bought from there years ago popped out because of the retainer clip tolerance. Exchanged them, no issues since. Been running them for almost 10 years and no issues, even now at over 500hp(and tons of torque) on sticky track tires.

 

Adrain I agree autozone and Oreilys axles are rather hit or miss, either they last awhile or not at all. As long as I been boosted though I do know I've had issues with the axles partially popping out instead of being flush with the trans seal or intermediate shaft.

Highschooler, have you know others that that order of parts addition has worked for? In other words where are you getting that order of replacement just wondering. Still have stock GSR 10:1 internals so I think thats why it made so much, my intercooler is actually rather small. The T04E, 57 trim i think is big. doesnt make full boost in 3rd til about 5K.
Actaully just took intermediate shaft off and it has play like if you hold end of shaft and try bend it while holding the part that attaches to the car with bolts. Its definately got play like not as bad as a ball joint but in the same way, which has to mean the bearing is not good anymore. Im wondering if this play in intermediate shaft what made axle pop out ?

wunfstgsr

If Oreilys ones pop out again after replacing intermediate shaft with an new insane intermediate shaft I will probably look into Drivershaft shop level 0 axles as they seem best compromise between still having axles as weak point but having axles that wont break all the time like remanned Oreily/AutoZone etc.
I thought about getting insane shafts but I am concerned this will put more stress on the differential and/or clutch. Even though it is an LSD I certainly would rather be replacing axle than pulling tranny again and rebuilding that.

FYI: BTW if anyone is looking for insane shafts StreetRays seems to have best price have come across.

 

As far as others having success with adding a traction bar, I’m not sure about other people since this issue is kind of unique, and I haven’t talked to many people about this problem at the racetrack.
For myself, I used to have a ‘94 Civic with an H22 engine. The axels for that swap tend to have problems. Every 6 months or so I would have to get the axels rebuilt because of clicking. I also had very bad wheel hop, so bad it was almost impossible to launch the car, even with HAsport engine mounts. So I added a traction bar, I forget the brand, but it was from a sponsor here on Honda-tech.com and the wheel hop/vibration almost completely went away. It was reduced to just slight vibration. I was able to launch much more smoothly. I didn’t have it long enough to know if it solved the axel clicking issue, but didn’t have axel clicking in the time I had it.
The traction bar bolts to where the tow hooks go, and the lower control arms, and the handling of the car was much better, at least. In general, it solved what problems were there without the traction bar. I wasn’t having axel pop out issues though. Although, I think it could help with that since it keeps the lower control arm from moving so much. But it wasn’t perfectly smooth or anything, I still had some slight vibration when launching.
For other people, I haven’t seen enough of this exact problem with a solution, but it’s what helped me with axel issues.
For the order of replacement, I suggest a traction bar first because it might keep your suspension more still, and you might not need a new axel of yours are in good condition currently. I’m not sure if yours are broken currently or just popping out. Just to my knowledge it could help with the pop out issue. Although you mentioned the intermediate shaft has play in it. Just from what you described, that could be part of the problem or the whole problem. If it seems like it has play in it, then I’d replace that first, see if you still get the pop out issue. I also suggested a traction bar before upgrading the axels because they are a few hundred cheaper than good axels, so to be cost effective, you could try the traction bar before spending more money on axels. The traction bar should help your acceleration times, which is good also. It even helps with braking and cornering too. For the reasons that it helps the suspension be more rigid, which lowers the strain in the axels, and cost is why I’d do the traction bar first.
If your axels are already broken, then I’d go ahead and I’d prefer the Drive Shaft Shop entry level axels, unless you plan to upgrade your power level, then I’d go with an axel appropriate for that desired future power level.
I wouldn’t worry about breaking a B-series transmission at 334whp unless you are getting tons of wheel hop when launching. So the traction bar is just an intermediate modification to upgrading your axels. If you have the money, do both I guess.

 

It is interesting that you swapped a H22 into your Civic but the swap axles always ended up breaking were you boosted?
If not seems like the swap axles were not designed correctly isn't the whole point of swap axle that it works with the swap ??
A buddy has a 90 prelude I told him if ever change engines just swap an H22 in there as it seems to look like the B20 that is in his car but shares none of the characteristics of other B-series. Wonder if H22 swaps in these would have the same axle durability problem you described on your Civic.

I have warranty on these axles which are not completely gone but make a popping noise alot when letting the clutch out and starting to roll or not. These Oreily remanned axles have play in them length wise you can hear the shaft hitting the cup or something. I have an original axle and it does not do this, have to assume that is the noise been hearing for several thousand miles. On top of that it has been partially popping out but not so much that the splines are being worn away.
So planning on just putting more remanned axles in there but installing a insane shaft intermediate shaft and if that helps or keeps the axles from failing again.
Never thought about a traction bar much but it makes sense that eliminating wheel hop would help the axles.
Did not think a traction bar would help handling but if it acts as a upper or lower sway bar in effect stiffening the chassis then that would explain it.

Have to explore traction bars more one thing have not tried yet.
Thanks for the detailed description and if you have any traction bar suggestions that would be great.

 

The H22 Civic I had axel problems with was turbocharged at 300whp, so that put a lot of the strain on the axels, which weren’t upgraded aftermarket ones, they were “stock” replacement ones. I should have gone with upgraded axels, but that’s one thing I just never got around to upgrading. I forget which axels they were out of/from but they were a combination of axels from other Hondas. This was about 12 years ago so I forgot which combination of Hondas the axels were out of. I do remember that the H22 Civic puts the axels at a strange angle which is what stresses them. After having an H22 Civic, I probably wouldn’t do it again. It was powerful but I liked the B18B turbo Civic I had better. The H22 Civic was somewhat front heavy, and I couldn’t use all that down low torque.
The swap axel for the H22 Civic did work and fit fine, but I think it’s something to do with the angle that it sat at. The more straight an axel is, the less stress it has on it, but the more it changes direction, the more strain it puts on it.
If your buddy does the H22 in his ‘90 prelude it would probably sit differently than the 92-95 Civic so he might not have issues, but it would be a good idea just to go with better-than-stock axels. I wouldn’t mess with another H22 swaps any more having done it, although if your enthusiastic about it, it can work. I did run in the 13 seconds in the quarter mile on street tires, but it was too much down low power, too much weight, and lacked the top end that an engine such as the GS-R would have, being able to rev to 8000 or more. If your buddy has the ‘90 prelude, I would stay B series, but that’s just me…My current build is a D-series so that everything fits like stock, I’ll have more space under the hood, and it weighs less than the B, H, or K.
The Insane intermediate shaft should help you. Once you have the money, an upgraded axel should help also.
The only thing bad about a traction bar is it can reduce your ground clearance for approaching upward curved streets. You might end up scraping the traction bar if there is a steep slope such as an entrance to a parking lot. Other than that, it’s a real good modification.
Let us know how that insane intermediate shaft works for you once you install it.

 

Do some put B18B or B18C in 90 preludes too or you mean just stay with the B20A5? ( i think is the original engine for the 2.0 L Si)

So low end power did not help you get off the line on the quarter?? Or just difficult to make it stick on street tires?

 

I’m not sure about the older prelude, you could probably swap in the B18A , B18B, or a B18C, but I don’t have much knowledge on that chassis. It depends what he’s going for with the car, but I think there is potential with the original engine if there are internal engine parts available. With that old of an engine, it would probably be good to do an engine rebuild if he stays with the stock B20.
On street tires, the H22 had more than enough power to get it off the line, but with stock axels, a traction bar, stiff suspension, and HAsport engine mounts I was still getting some wheel vibration, almost like wheel hop, much worse than my B18B Civic. The 1.8 liter had plenty of power for leaving the line. The H22 Civic was fast from like 40-120 miles per hour though. I got a 1/4 mile trap speed of 118mph which is pretty fast. I should have tried drag radials or slicks as tires, but it was my daily driver for a few years, and I didn’t get serious about drag racing it. I should have now that I think about it, but I ended up buying a 2006 Civic SI (K20), and didn’t mod it much, just daily drove that a few years. Then I started another project with the 92-95 Civic. I might do a K series project, but I wouldn’t do another H22 project. I don’t see many H22 civics any more or H series swaps these days. Most people that would do the H series swaps back then have just moved to doing K series swaps. I’m not sure if swapping a K series is an option on a ‘90 prelude, but that would be cool if there was an engine mount kit for that.

 

I breifly looked into doing a H22 swap on Integra but some places read that it made Integra handle not very well and the swap was heavy and possibly changing the center of gravity since the engine sits higher or tilted or whatever it does. Some of the things your saying about H22 swapped into Civic sound similar. I would have thought H22 swap in a Civic would be more popular especially with the power you were able to use.
It makes sense that most these days would just swap a K series instead of an H22 but it is odd that seems like even before K series swaps got popular that H22 swap was not that popular when it was just basically either swap B series or H series mostly. At least this is my perception now, correct me if theres something off.
Thanks for sharing you drag experience sounds often.

Quote F&F
"I owe you a 10 second car."

 

Were you able to replace the intermediate shaft yet- and did that fix the axel pop out issue?