1998 CRV won't Start After Battery Replacement
1998 Honda CR-V LX Std 4WD
Vehicle became harder to start as climate turned colder, eventually becoming unable to start altogether. It slowed like the battery was getting weaker each time. I took the battery out of the car and recharged it inside where it was much warmer. Once the battery was back in the vehicle it has not started since. All that happens is a click sound one time each time the key is turned to start position.
Checked fuses - all good.
Replaced man relay. That's where the click is coming from. No change except I'm out $60+.
Used several load tested batteries with same result. Present battery is at 12.6 volts.
Ran diagnostic that showed no codes saved in ECU. Scan was run a couple of weeks ago that threw P1359, P0104, P0301, and P1399.
Vehicle does not turn over.
There is no apparent valve to check for fuel to engine. Gas lines are rubber.
Tested clutch safety switch seems to be working.
If fuel pump were not working, the engine would still turn over, just not start. Same if there is no spark. The vehicle is in a noisy place outdoors so I can't hear the fuel pump.
Have not tried to pull start or "joe" it off down a hill.
When key is first turned on there are several warning lights: SRS, oil, battery, brake, seat belt, and a small square that says maintenance required. The SRS light goes off and the check engine light comes on. It goes out after a couple of seconds. This light used to be on all the time. The brake light would come on some times and stay on until the engine was restarted.
The engine does not turn over but the headlights come on, horn blows, and lights dim very little when anything is turned on along with them.
Vehicle became harder to start as climate turned colder, eventually becoming unable to start altogether. It slowed like the battery was getting weaker each time. I took the battery out of the car and recharged it inside where it was much warmer. Once the battery was back in the vehicle it has not started since. All that happens is a click sound one time each time the key is turned to start position.
Checked fuses - all good.
Replaced man relay. That's where the click is coming from. No change except I'm out $60+.
Used several load tested batteries with same result. Present battery is at 12.6 volts.
Ran diagnostic that showed no codes saved in ECU. Scan was run a couple of weeks ago that threw P1359, P0104, P0301, and P1399.
Vehicle does not turn over.
There is no apparent valve to check for fuel to engine. Gas lines are rubber.
Tested clutch safety switch seems to be working.
If fuel pump were not working, the engine would still turn over, just not start. Same if there is no spark. The vehicle is in a noisy place outdoors so I can't hear the fuel pump.
Have not tried to pull start or "joe" it off down a hill.
When key is first turned on there are several warning lights: SRS, oil, battery, brake, seat belt, and a small square that says maintenance required. The SRS light goes off and the check engine light comes on. It goes out after a couple of seconds. This light used to be on all the time. The brake light would come on some times and stay on until the engine was restarted.
The engine does not turn over but the headlights come on, horn blows, and lights dim very little when anything is turned on along with them.
Last edited by StrikesRule; Feb 1, 2022 at 05:55 PM. Reason: Additions, corrections
Thank you.
I had done that too, ruled out the starter. Was going to take it off and take it to one of the parts stores for testing but the weather is rapidly changing for the worse. I can reach the terminals with my multi meter. That should tell me if there is current to it. I don't think there is.
The clutch safety switch hasn't been mentioned. When you let off the clutch the click from the main relay stops. I think this says that switch is working.
It's curious that all those dash lights stay on now and the ones that used to be on, check engine and brake, go off.
I had done that too, ruled out the starter. Was going to take it off and take it to one of the parts stores for testing but the weather is rapidly changing for the worse. I can reach the terminals with my multi meter. That should tell me if there is current to it. I don't think there is.
The clutch safety switch hasn't been mentioned. When you let off the clutch the click from the main relay stops. I think this says that switch is working.
It's curious that all those dash lights stay on now and the ones that used to be on, check engine and brake, go off.
Big question. I'll check for power and meter will tell me how much there is. I'm not expecting to find power at all.
Just messages local shop. Having them come get it. This place has a good Ol School mechanic. Small town. People I know.
Will post their result if that's ok.
Just messages local shop. Having them come get it. This place has a good Ol School mechanic. Small town. People I know.
Will post their result if that's ok.
Big question. I'll check for power and meter will tell me how much there is. I'm not expecting to find power at all.
Just messages local shop. Having them come get it. This place has a good Ol School mechanic. Small town. People I know.
Will post their result if that's ok.
Just messages local shop. Having them come get it. This place has a good Ol School mechanic. Small town. People I know.
Will post their result if that's ok.
Good luck with this. I test drove a 1998 CR-V EX 5 speed manual about 3 years ago, It was a tough choice between that and a '99 Accord EX, also manual which I ended up getting. The Accord was great, have a newer CR-V now but being that manual transmission CR-Vs are so rare, or any manual transmission SUV - I'd probably still have it. I'd say a '98 CR-V with a manual transmission is something worth repairing. That's good you've got a good local shop.
Last edited by Stelcom66; Feb 6, 2022 at 11:46 AM. Reason: Updated signature
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True story...
When I worked for Acura, we had a TL towed in to the shop. The owner went to start the vehicle and found it to be dead. They went to the store and bought a new battery for the vehicle, got it home and completed the replacement, then turned the key to no positive result. Baffled, they called for a tow. Must be something more complicated, right? The vehicle winds up at our shop and one of the techs goes out to the parking lot with the jump box to drive the vehicle into the shop. He throws open the hood, goes to connect the jump box to the battery, and finds the owner had secured the negative battery cable to the battery post WITHING HAVING TAKEN OFF THE LITTLE PLASTIC CAP THAT SHIPS ON THE BATTERY!
If they were all that easy, I'd probably still be wrenching...
When I worked for Acura, we had a TL towed in to the shop. The owner went to start the vehicle and found it to be dead. They went to the store and bought a new battery for the vehicle, got it home and completed the replacement, then turned the key to no positive result. Baffled, they called for a tow. Must be something more complicated, right? The vehicle winds up at our shop and one of the techs goes out to the parking lot with the jump box to drive the vehicle into the shop. He throws open the hood, goes to connect the jump box to the battery, and finds the owner had secured the negative battery cable to the battery post WITHING HAVING TAKEN OFF THE LITTLE PLASTIC CAP THAT SHIPS ON THE BATTERY!
If they were all that easy, I'd probably still be wrenching...
1998 Honda CR-V LX Std 4WD
Vehicle became harder to start as climate turned colder, eventually becoming unable to start altogether. It slowed like the battery was getting weaker each time. I took the battery out of the car and recharged it inside where it was much warmer. Once the battery was back in the vehicle it has not started since. All that happens is a click sound one time each time the key is turned to start position.
Checked fuses - all good.
Replaced man relay. That's where the click is coming from. No change except I'm out $60+.
Used several load tested batteries with same result. Present battery is at 12.6 volts.
Ran diagnostic that showed no codes saved in ECU. Scan was run a couple of weeks ago that threw P1359, P0104, P0301, and P1399.
Vehicle does not turn over.
There is no apparent valve to check for fuel to engine. Gas lines are rubber.
Tested clutch safety switch seems to be working.
If fuel pump were not working, the engine would still turn over, just not start. Same if there is no spark. The vehicle is in a noisy place outdoors so I can't hear the fuel pump.
Have not tried to pull start or "joe" it off down a hill.
When key is first turned on there are several warning lights: SRS, oil, battery, brake, seat belt, and a small square that says maintenance required. The SRS light goes off and the check engine light comes on. It goes out after a couple of seconds. This light used to be on all the time. The brake light would come on some times and stay on until the engine was restarted.
The engine does not turn over but the headlights come on, horn blows, and lights dim very little when anything is turned on along with them.
Vehicle became harder to start as climate turned colder, eventually becoming unable to start altogether. It slowed like the battery was getting weaker each time. I took the battery out of the car and recharged it inside where it was much warmer. Once the battery was back in the vehicle it has not started since. All that happens is a click sound one time each time the key is turned to start position.
Checked fuses - all good.
Replaced man relay. That's where the click is coming from. No change except I'm out $60+.
Used several load tested batteries with same result. Present battery is at 12.6 volts.
Ran diagnostic that showed no codes saved in ECU. Scan was run a couple of weeks ago that threw P1359, P0104, P0301, and P1399.
Vehicle does not turn over.
There is no apparent valve to check for fuel to engine. Gas lines are rubber.
Tested clutch safety switch seems to be working.
If fuel pump were not working, the engine would still turn over, just not start. Same if there is no spark. The vehicle is in a noisy place outdoors so I can't hear the fuel pump.
Have not tried to pull start or "joe" it off down a hill.
When key is first turned on there are several warning lights: SRS, oil, battery, brake, seat belt, and a small square that says maintenance required. The SRS light goes off and the check engine light comes on. It goes out after a couple of seconds. This light used to be on all the time. The brake light would come on some times and stay on until the engine was restarted.
The engine does not turn over but the headlights come on, horn blows, and lights dim very little when anything is turned on along with them.
What was the issue? Mine is having the same and I believe it has to do with the security system. I thought it was a ground wire. Mine began when I unplugged the battery and got my thermostat replaced. Now my 98 crv cranks, but wont start. Honda customer service is a joke. They offer no help but had the audacity to send me an email stating they hope I got it resolved as if they offered any help aside from requesting I take it to them so they can make a profit. In the process of dealing with money hungry businesses I got hustled by auto zone, they claimed my battery was no good so I spent money there on a new one. These commerical businesses are disgusting because that battery only went dead from trying to resolve Hondas mistakes. Had I taken it elsewhere it would have gotten charged. I'm never spending money on Honda or Auto Zone again.
What was the issue? Mine is having the same and I believe it has to do with the security system. I thought it was a ground wire. Mine began when I unplugged the battery and got my thermostat replaced. Now my 98 crv cranks, but wont start. Honda customer service is a joke. They offer no help but had the audacity to send me an email stating they hope I got it resolved as if they offered any help aside from requesting I take it to them so they can make a profit. In the process of dealing with money hungry businesses I got hustled by auto zone, they claimed my battery was no good so I spent money there on a new one. These commerical businesses are disgusting because that battery only went dead from trying to resolve Hondas mistakes. Had I taken it elsewhere it would have gotten charged. I'm never spending money on Honda or Auto Zone again.
Edit: The guy was a sketchy alcoholic so there is a chance he purposely messed with things to make it this way. Whenever my car wouldnt start in the past it was normally a security system issue that I'd resolve with a car remote. My car remote went missing about a month and a half ago.
The original problem was that the coolant was boiling over in the resoviour. I replaced the resoviour and it was still boiling over. I thought it was my water pump or the relay but both seem to have been working. The relay makes the sound when I turn the key. After cranking for awhile I smell a bit of fuel. I'm not sure if it's that wire, the security system, or something else. I'm pretty sure I caught two guys trying to break in it, before that my alarm mysteriously stopped working. After the guy worked on my thermostat and the car would no longer start, I ended up getting cameras and never talking to him again because he went ghost on me for days after claiming he'd stop by the next day. I went off on him through text and he called me twice a week later after midnight and he let it ring like 3 times. I paid him $42 total. I should have done it myself, but I dont want him touching my crv again.
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Last edited by _tbhidkidc; Sep 4, 2022 at 03:58 PM.
1998 Honda CR-V LX Std 4WD
Vehicle became harder to start as climate turned colder, eventually becoming unable to start altogether. It slowed like the battery was getting weaker each time. I took the battery out of the car and recharged it inside where it was much warmer. Once the battery was back in the vehicle it has not started since. All that happens is a click sound one time each time the key is turned to start position.
Checked fuses - all good.
Replaced man relay. That's where the click is coming from. No change except I'm out $60+.
Used several load tested batteries with same result. Present battery is at 12.6 volts.
Ran diagnostic that showed no codes saved in ECU. Scan was run a couple of weeks ago that threw P1359, P0104, P0301, and P1399.
Vehicle does not turn over.
There is no apparent valve to check for fuel to engine. Gas lines are rubber.
Tested clutch safety switch seems to be working.
If fuel pump were not working, the engine would still turn over, just not start. Same if there is no spark. The vehicle is in a noisy place outdoors so I can't hear the fuel pump.
Have not tried to pull start or "joe" it off down a hill.
When key is first turned on there are several warning lights: SRS, oil, battery, brake, seat belt, and a small square that says maintenance required. The SRS light goes off and the check engine light comes on. It goes out after a couple of seconds. This light used to be on all the time. The brake light would come on some times and stay on until the engine was restarted.
The engine does not turn over but the headlights come on, horn blows, and lights dim very little when anything is turned on along with them.
Vehicle became harder to start as climate turned colder, eventually becoming unable to start altogether. It slowed like the battery was getting weaker each time. I took the battery out of the car and recharged it inside where it was much warmer. Once the battery was back in the vehicle it has not started since. All that happens is a click sound one time each time the key is turned to start position.
Checked fuses - all good.
Replaced man relay. That's where the click is coming from. No change except I'm out $60+.
Used several load tested batteries with same result. Present battery is at 12.6 volts.
Ran diagnostic that showed no codes saved in ECU. Scan was run a couple of weeks ago that threw P1359, P0104, P0301, and P1399.
Vehicle does not turn over.
There is no apparent valve to check for fuel to engine. Gas lines are rubber.
Tested clutch safety switch seems to be working.
If fuel pump were not working, the engine would still turn over, just not start. Same if there is no spark. The vehicle is in a noisy place outdoors so I can't hear the fuel pump.
Have not tried to pull start or "joe" it off down a hill.
When key is first turned on there are several warning lights: SRS, oil, battery, brake, seat belt, and a small square that says maintenance required. The SRS light goes off and the check engine light comes on. It goes out after a couple of seconds. This light used to be on all the time. The brake light would come on some times and stay on until the engine was restarted.
The engine does not turn over but the headlights come on, horn blows, and lights dim very little when anything is turned on along with them.
Wow! My car battery is brand new and it's been really cold. I have to jump-start the car every single morning. I think it has to do with the cold weather. I was told starter but it starts after I jump the battery. I think you should call to see if the manufacturer as had this issue. I think I'm gonna call because in the summer the car started every single day. I also might get a better Honda! The old ones seem to have so many issues. They can be fixed but you need your own shop to fix them and restore them!
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