nixstix01 , 12-27-2021 08:50 PM
Honda-Tech Member
Hey guys been wanting to put this together for a little while learned a lot from this forum and would love to give back a little. I wanted to do all the work myself but live in a city in a building. Don t have the space to do work on my own. So a local shop is building for me. And they have been good thus far
So here pics of my setup.it’s not finished yet I have acouple more things to do but the engine is together
I know I could have done it cheaper. But I wanted the bay to look cleaned up. And I’m a little ocd about my cars lol. Also want to go awd soon but need to save more money for that. And that’s also why I’m not fully building this transmission.

I’m gonna be doing a lot of highway driving 40 rolls. I rally want to find some half mile events or roll racing events near me.














High hp css b18b block bored decked honed jet washed o-ringed and micro polished Balanced rotating assembly

All threads chased



Wiseco pistons upgraded wrist pins for going over 600 hp

Speedfactory rods

Standard acl race rod and main bearings

4 piston oil pump

Gates racing gsr water pump

Fel pro oil pan gasket

Fel pro rear main seal

Comp twin disc

Speed factory catch can

Hasport Motor mounts

Truehart solid billet tourque mounts



HEAD B16

B16 head resurfaced hot tanked cleaned new valve guides

Gsc 91lb dual valve springs and retainers

Ferrea 6000 valves and valve locks

Kelford 176 t camshafts

Gsc cam bolts with titanium washer

Golden eagle cam gears

Golden eagle oem head gasket

Golden eagle lsvtec kit

ARP 2000 head studs

Speedfactory thermal intake mani gasket

Gates racing timing belt

Edelbrock victor x intake mani

Speedfactory 70 mm throttle body



SUSPENSION/BRAKES/WHEELS/TIRES

Rear disc brake swap

Scare bird rear disc conversion bracket

Moog trailing arm bushings

Energy suspension control arm bushings

Front upper and lower and rear lower

Oem ac Delco remanufactured rear calipers

Powerstop pads

Drilled slotted rotors front and back

True hart toe arms

True hart upper control arms with upper bal joint and rear upper control arm

Progress cs2 coilovers 450/350

Timken wheel bearings front

Moog inner and outer tie rods

Moog lower ball joints

Beck and arnley e break cables

Russels ss caliper brake lines

Stash auto brake line tuck kit

Type r master cylinder and brake booster

Vms revolver 15x8 wheels

Tri state motor sport traction bar



Fuel/E85

Jb tuned 8 an feed 6 an return kit

Jb tuned oem hanger mod kit

Walboro 535 hellcat pump

I’d 2000 cc injectors

E85 freaks fuel filter

Speed factory fuel rail

8 an feed 6 an return



Turbo/cooling

Speed trap consulting predator turbo with high temp ceramic coated turbine and compressor covers

Tri state Motorsport ramhorn

Turbo smart kompact dual port 34 mm bov

Turbo smart gen v 45 mm hyper gate

Speed factory 850 hp dual back door intercooler

All fittings oil and water lines from b and r fittings

Vibrant polished aluminum 3 inch intercooler piping

Skunk 2 dual core half radiator
spal fan

Turbosmart 4 port boost solenoid

Speed factory 4 bar map sensor



Ignition ECU
p28

Hondata s300 v3

Pwm kit for boost by gear

Honda rules coil on plug kit

Oem k20 coils

speed factory cop plate

Speed factory block off plate for distributor



TRANSMISSION
Gsr

M factory lsd

Carbon synchros

New bearings and seals

Drive shaft shop 5.9 axles

Competition clutch twin disc

Speed factory detent springs

 

Man that’s a heck of a build you have going! I’m headed to bed now but will be chiming in to see how things go. What level power are you going for anyway?

 

I am shooting for anywhere between 550 and 650 I spoke with someone who was pushing 680 with this turbo granted he had a 2.0 liter b series.

 

The car looks good. I have a black coupe in the same body.
The parts list looks good also. The thing that stands out to me is Wiseco pistons. I was told by Wiseco that their D series pistons are rated to 600WHP. I’m not sure if that’s the point the break or that’s the point they can reliably make. However the B series ones might have a higher capacity since they are larger. Did you go with Wiseco’s upgraded wrist pins? Hopefully you did. Do you know if the Wiseco pistons you have are rated to handle the horsepower you want to achieve?

 

hey man sorry forgot to mention that I do have the upgraded wrist pins. I did read about the wrist pin failures above 600 after I bought them. Lol

 

Not a bad way how to spend about thirty thousand dollars. As stated, everything looks good. Hopefully you have a shop that is skilled enough to match that quality parts list. And yes i would upgrade, or atleast start entertaining the ideal of upgraded wrist pins 500whp.

 

I know I could have done it cheaper but I never do anything nice for myself. I could have bought a brand new car literally but the heart wants what it wants. And the shop seems good so far we’ll see when I get the car back. Fingers crossed I should have the car in the next month if everything goes smoothly.

 

At thins point I think the speedfactory rods will be the weak point, I figure they are rated 700-800hp range?

 

their websites says rated 900 hp I don’t know if they will handle that much though

 

they are like the rest of the H beam rods like skunk2 or Manley. I’ve seen 900 on them, I just would not stand to close. Lol

 

Keep it 600whp and under. Or upgrade to i beams( turbo tuff rods )

 

Lol it’s funny I bought the pistons and rods when I only wanted like 450 500 hp but my power goals changed as I was building so many times. the wisecos with the upgraded pins I read somwhere should be good for over 900 hp someone who works for wiseco stated this to this person and speed factory rates their rods for 900 hp the turbo is only capable of maybe 680 if I throw lots of psi 30+ lbs at it so I should be good.

 

You should consider a larger capacity oil pan such as Moroso. The way Pauter explained it to me is that the stock oil pan is only good for a stock redline, but if you increase RPMs, then it’s better to have more oil capacity so that not all of the oil is stuck in the cylinder head draining back to the pan, there is enough oil in the pan to supply the block at all times.

 

I really want to wait till the car is back in my possession and to see what I start to do with it. Weather it be just backroad driving ,or highway pulls maybe throwing down some hot laps at a track. but for now I think staying with the stock oil pan seems the best route right now. But will be considered for the future.

 

Just wanted to add a pic of the rims and tires they just got mounted and balanced on the rims
tire toyo r888r on 15x8 et 20