Hi, I have an 05 CRV with 275,000 miles on it I’ve had for about a year. It’s had no major issues ‘til recently, but about a month ago I started seeing things like an intermittent check engine light, intermittent VSA light, and radio volume or engine revs or AC power dipping when I turned my brights on. I took it to my mechanic, who pulled up a pending P0685 code and told me to go to the dealer. The dealer said my battery was bad, but also that I would need a new PCM, which they told me would be about $2000, and given the age of my car and its value I would be better off just looking for a new car at that point. I really do not want to have to look for a new (used) car right now given my options, but the thing is, since the new battery, my car has been better than ever. No warning lights, no power issues, no issues starting, no shifting problems or anything. The dealer basically told me my car was running on borrowed time and could brick at any moment. But looking online, I’m reading that that code could simply be caused by a bad battery. Is that plausible? Or should I trust the dealer? Thanks!

 

A junk battery will cause that code. If the code has not returned I would say issue resolved and keep driving.

Dealerships are always going to be selling, even the service department.

 

That’s great news, thanks! Yeah I am not inclined to trust those people, they don’t exactly have the best incentives to keep my car running. So just to double check, if the check engine light doesn’t come back am I in the clear? Or should I get it checked for codes, in case it’s there but not showing (I know last time they were able to read the code without there being a check engine light, because it was pending? Clearly I am not an expert here)?

 

That specific code takes two drive cycles of persistent issue to set a check engine light. It will also self clear after two drive cycles when the issue doesn't appear but will be stored in memory.

You could have it scanned again just to verify but I think you are in the clear.

 

Super helpful, thanks again!

 

Scumbags. Run away to an independent dealer

 

Alright, well for 3 days everything was running totally fine, but Friday night the car was a bit slow to start, and I got some VSA warning lights when I turned the headlights on, as well as the radio ducking out sometimes when I turned the brights on. Tonight when I turned the car on I got a check engine light. I don't have a code reader, but I can only assume it's going to give me another P0685. It was even slower to start tonight, and I again got the VSA light when I turned the headlights on. Before I bite the bullet and start looking at cars, any other possible causes for this that I should look into next? I've been digging through threads and coming across ideas like a faulty voltage regulator, or a faulty main relay - but I don't know nearly enough to know what applies to me and what doesn't. I will say, nothing I've read about what a faulty PCM does sounds like what's happening to me, but again, what do I know.

Speaking of PCMs, the dealer told me that a replacement would be about $2000, because apparently they're discontinued, and the ones you can find are marked up. A quick search found me this, though. That's a bit less than $2000, and I'd happily buy that to keep this car going. Would that work for me, if I did ultimately need to replace my computer?

 

Sounds like it is not charging the battery properly. I would head down the troubleshooting path with that in mind.

You can buy second hand ECUs. They will require programming to match your immobilizer system. Something a repair shop or most locksmiths can help with.

 

Dang, that’s exactly what my mechanic said too. When I first told them about this over the phone, they said my alternator would probably need to be replaced, but after looking they said the alternator was fine.

Could this be a wiring problem of some kind? Something getting shorted out? Something is definitely screwy behind the instrument panel at least; the speedometer backlights have always flickered. I know I’ve got to see a mechanic (I’ll probably look for someplace totally new, just to get a third opinion on things) to really get to the bottom of this, just trying to be as prepared as I can.

Thanks again, and good to know about the ECU!

 

Pulling codes is not diagnostic. Sounds like the vehicle needs to be looked at by a competent person. Flickering of dash lights typically points to the diodes in the charging system. Used ecu can be programmed at home with a obd2 dongle.