Ok the other day I was driving my Honda crv, I noticed that the check engine light and D light were flickering, and the car was sputtering, it would come and go , then i drove up a hill and I notice that it was sputtering worst then all of a sudden it shot off , I tried starting it but wouldn't start , no the car only cranks but no start, also on the dashboard the oil pressure light is on , oil level is good, and no power to obd plug, also found out that the fuel pump fuse was blown, I replaced the 15amp fuse for the fuel pump and it keeps blowing up, does this only when I turn the key on, I checked battery and it's good, what could be causing this problem? Does anyone know if I have a short somewhere or could it be a sensor somewhere thats bad?

 

Update , I could not find any short on the yellow black wire that goes to the fuel pump , I checked fuel pump and socket all are good, all are receiving power, now the fuel pump (#17 under dash) and FI ecu fuse (#6 in front hood) keep on blowing , I removed the PGM FI main relay #1 and #2 and fuse #17 and #6 don't blow up no more, this is where I'm stuck , does this mean the 2 relays are bad? Is there anyone that can reply and help me out?

 

Driving atm, do you know how to check relay to see if it works?

 

No, just means that there is something on the circuit that the relays are controlling that could be bad.
if I were you I would start by testing the relays.

 

PGM-FI Main Relay 2 is the fuel pump relay. PGM-FI Main Relay 2 works in conjunction with PGM-FI Main Relay 1. PGM-FI Main Relay 2 relies on a functioning PGM-FI Main Relay 1 in order to supply power to the fuel pump.

If both separate fuses are blowing, there probably is a short in the wiring or a component where main relay 1 supplies power to. Bad relay is not as likely if both separate fuses are blowing. If main relay 1 was pulled,the circuit to main relay 2 would already to broken (opened). Therefore, if under-dash fuse # 17 for main relay 2 still blew with main relay 1 pulled out, then there is probably a short in the blk/yel wire or a components which main relay 1 feeds. A short can damage the relays; but, if a short exist and was not fixed, it can damage replacement relays.

There is a separate set of Yel/Blk wires that Main Relay 1 feeds to, which are:

• PGM-FI Main Relay 2
• IAC Valve
• TDC Sensor
• CKP Sensor
• Injectors
• ECM/PCM
• Immobilizer Control Unit Receiver

 

Ok I tested both relays and they both click but I tested if the the load goes out with multimeter and they both beep with multimeter but numbers go all crazy, does this mean they are bad?

 

I pulled both relays out and the fuses don't blow

 

Doubtful, what is the voltage going into the relay?
a relay is nothing more than a switch. It's either open or closed

 

I connected the battery directly to relay , I did the testing with multimeter and it beeps and numbers just go all crazy

 

I did change out my front o2 sensor like a month ago, do you think there might be something wrong with that sensor? Because it started doing weird things after I replaced that O2 sensor, like it would make the d flash Like crazy and the check engine light would do the same and car would run bad like it was loosing fuel pressure, but wouldn't do it all the time.

 

I would say that's a great place to start. If you installed one of those aftermarket make sure you have all wires correct.
yes, if it started acting up shortly after the o2 change I would say it's highly possible you screwed something up

 

Sounds lIke your fuel pump is bad.

 

that's what I thought as well..
not real familiar but is there a bleeder that you can push on the fuel rail? Here's the obvious, fuel is flammable and may spray out.

 

Well after doing some more testing I found out that when I unplug the brown pgm Fi main relay it makes a short every time I plug it back in coul that be my problem?

 

I don't think it's the fuel pump fuses still blow up when the fuel pump is plugged in or not , they don't blow up when I unplug the brown pgm Fi main relay on passenger side but as soon as I plug it back in it blows up Fuse #6 FI ECU fuse under hood, and fuse #17 under dash blows up only when I turn the key to on

 

I installed the denso one found it on Amazon Denso 234-9005 Oxygen Sensor

 

Starting checking the wiring. Connector C101, C103, and C452 are several of the connectors where the various Yel/Blk wires runs through. There are many Yel/Blk wires for the circuits protected by under-hood fuse no. 6.

If you don't see any obvious damaged wires causing a short, then start disconnecting individual connectors (C101, C103) and/or components to narrow down the area with the short. I listed components in my previous post that are protected by fuse no. 6.

 

@tech8 what source are you getting the labeled photos from? I’m a diy guy ad I’ve only used the factory manual. I’ve always wondered what alldata or Mitchell or identifix could supply in addition. It seems photos of connectors/parts locations can be quite helpful compared to the factory manual drawings.

 

In addition to service/repair manuals, Honda has Electrical Troubleshooting Manuals (ETMs).

An ETM has generally better circuit diagrams where you can more easily trace to connectors, components, etc. It includes some photos of location of connectors and components. You have to understand how to read circuit diagrams; but, it isn't that difficult. It doesn't really have any specific troubleshooting procedures like the service manual; however, if you understand the circuit diagrams, the ETM is an invaluable manual to narrow down electrical issues.

 

Thanks so much , I will check all of those connectors tomorrow, I'll give an update if I find anything

 

Thank you. @OP, Sorry for temporarily hijacking this thread,

 

(Update) I checked all sensors and all connectors and they all look good, I put a 20amp fuse into socket fuse #6 underhood and it's not blowing up , but #17 underdash still blows up, I tried cranking the car and it turned on for about 3-5 seconds and then shutoff

 

I tried doing the same thing with fuse #17 underdash, instead of putting a 15amp fuse I put a 20amp fuse but still blows it, then I tried putting a 30amp fuse and it did not blow but car did nothing when I turn the key, so I took off the fuse , tried turn the key wiout fuse the car started for about 3-5 seconds then shotoff, But now my battery might be bad

 

Fuses are meant to protect components, using an uprated fuse is good way to destroy electronics.

can you post the electrical schematics of fuse 6/17 and fuel pump?

something is shorted/drawing a lot. Double check all your wiring and every connection you touched.

 

What I'm thinking is that I have a bad ECU , because when I plug my obd reader it powers on but does not connect to car, the check engine light is on when I turn key to on position