I have a 2005 Civic Vp 1.7L, for about a week my car has been sitting & unable to start. Last week I came home & changed my car's oil, I let old oil out & then removed old filter & replaced with Honda filter. When I was done & cleaned up, I we t to start my vehicle & get oil running through engine for few minutes. I turned key & it cranked but no start, tried few more times & nothing. My mechanic came by & said it's fuel pump "you're not getting any gas" he said so I pulled out fuel sending unit & replaced filter, still no start, replaced relays, still no start. Check voltage on battery 10.4v I thought omg yes, it's battery & mine was under warranty so I replaced it, went to start & everything works great except no start. It cranks but will not turn over & now the green light will not stop flashing. My key is chipped not a key fob. I replaced my grounds with 4g as well today. I'm stumped. Can someone ease tell me how to reset or reprogram the original key because I'm sure my car thinks it's been stolen. I have no clue how to fix it & it's cost me more money than I wished already before Xmas & I don't understand why this came out of nowhere with no warning signs. Any advice or help is greatly Appreciated guys. 2005 civic VP/DX American car, D17A1 engine 122,634 miles.

 

Time to attempt to pair the keys again with a proper scan tool. Your mechanic friend might have the correct tool. Needs and HDS or compatible tool. Lock smiths also tend to have the correct tool to program the immobilizer.

If the immobilizer won't pair it is likely a failed MICU. Surprisingly common on this generation Civic when the 12v battery goes bad.

 

It's the ring around the ignition that reads chip in my key. I replaced it, still blinking light. My mechanic is coming today to help but I'm suspecting my ECU is burnt now & I'll need a swap which isn't hard. What's hard is finding an ECU to match my numbers & it's been a month of no car. I literally am gonna go buy a cbr500 so I have a vehicle because of this.

 

If you replaced the ring around the ignition (IMMOBILIZER CONTROL UNIT-RECEIVER), it also must be re-written with HDS or a compatible programmer; otherwise the engine cannot start.

See page 2 and 8 of the attached bulletin.

 

Thank you for the help. I went to local junkyard & pulled the ignition ring thing & replaced my old one. I have a new ECU coming in day or two as I was told it was immobilizer. I had a locksmith come out & tried to reprogram my key & erased my existing key from computer. Now that I have the new chip reader in ignition & new ECU coming, what are the steps to getting my car up & running? Do I just replace the ECU & have locksmith come back & reprogram the new ECU to new key? My old ECU is bad so I cant swap EEPROM or anything. Hopefully I'm not completely screwed.

 

So I got a new ECU, it came in on Xmas Eve and the guy I bought it from made it "virgin" my car starts to do things it wasn't doing before like priming fuel. But still won't start. I tried the 30 minute thing, I tried complete reset. I was able to pull Vin from new ECU and literally just need to write my Vin into ECU and it'll work I think.

 

You need to pair the immobilizer antenna to the ECU and then program keys. Two step process.

 

Alright guys, I'm the original poster. I dunno how I have two accounts but anyway, let me start from day 1. Car drove perfectly I kept up with maintenance, kept up engine tune ups. Drove to Colorado from my home in Palm springs California twice, once Oregon & no issue except O2 sensor trip in Colorado from going below sea level to 6k ft or something. So, I got off work about month ago, changed my oil like I've done a million times, went to start car & nothing. Green key started flashing so I figured great immobilizer. Replaced key & locksmith told me the reader dead, fine. Replaced reader was told eeprom wouldn't store key, fine. Replaced the ECU & had it programmed & immobilizer paired to key. Now no more green light, it cranks but won't start. Before the programming of new ECU & immobilizer I tried ECU & it would prime fuel. After programming it will not prime. Everything works fine. I also replaced fuel pump. I'm dying guys, all the amateur solutions like relay, fuses etc I've tried I dunno what to do. Do I call Honda and demand my break code sequence?

 

Did you buy a brand new ECU from Honda or a used one from a salvage yard or something similar ? There is a good chance that a used one may be bad.

 

Ecm or ECU was purchased from a auto parts dealer & was virgin. I found the problem after 4 weeks & nearly 700 dollars later. I started to think electrical & my headlights would dim when cranking, most would think alternator or battery. As my battery was brand new & alternator was ground properly & no issue there I started thinking electrical short. I started under dash one by one & all good. Went under hood & here we go, thank God I started with fuse box. I have only heard "ELD" once before so wasn't too familiar with it or what it's functioning was. Turns out it controls nearly everything, took fuse box out & turned over & was shocked to see what looked like thick dark almost black grease all over connection on harness. It was everywhere, then I got to the ELD plug & found that there was charred wires & black charting around connection. The ELD or electric load distributor or director or whatever had shorted out. Literally could see where it blew. I removed it & put my engine bay back together & got in car put key in ignition & turned to on position & heard the fuel prime & thought "holy f***" I fixed it, I actually fixed it & sure enough the engine started. New ECU, new immobilizer, new keys, new fuel pump, crank sensor etc. I don't think I'm completely out of the woods as car started & died almost 3 seconds after but I think it needs to learn everything but I think I found problem. I don't know why the car would die & hoping it's just needing to learn everything but I couldn't have done any of this without you guys & this community, honestly. You guys are aces, all of you. Someone who's not 100% on cars like me this was a huge win for me guys & I thank you for your help. What should be my next move you guys think beside replacing ELD, already on its way. What should I goto next?

 

I just had a thought & don't know if this could be problem but when my Immobilizer intially started acting up I bought new key & replaced the reader around the ignition & got new ecu programmed to my cars Vin. Could it be my car isn't staying because of that reader I replaced? Could my key of just died & can I put the original back in it's place if it was just the bad key? I'll wait to hear back from you guys before I attempt it as I don't wanna make it worse.

 

What is the immobilizer light doing?

 

Immobilizer was reprogrammed and goes off with new key like it used it. Fuel injector idea didn't work car still won't start. I'm at my wits end. I don't know what to do. My mechanic friend said fuel pressure because everything works but won't start & when I use starter fluid it'll start & it'll run ok for a 3 second period and die out with foot on gas. Fuel pump is good as it's pumping fuel from tank. I don't know how to build fuel pressure, I just replaced the spark plugs & fuel filter. I'm almost 750 into this & don't know why. Everything works except it will not stay on. My friend is adamant it's fuel pressure & will bring it up and hopefully that works. I'm running out sanity guys.

 

What does the immobilizer light do when you key off and remove the key?

 

Blinks 3 times & turns off. It's been programmed & it's not the immobilizer. If it were it wouldnt spark, or turn over. I ran into old buddy from high school who's a teacher at mechanic school & he told me to test my battery which is less than month old & it's at 12.02v with charger on. So I'm guessing my alternator is blown & that's why car won't start & won't build the fuel pressure because battery is so low & alternator dead. Makes sense, I recall seeing my battery light flicker the day before & I guess that was my warning. But I don't wanna drop new alternator in & it not be the reason why. My mechanic told me 100% it's the fuel pressure, it's not pressurized enough. I never got to turn car on after replacing pump.

 

I want to thank each & everyone of you guys for your insight, your troubleshooting & mainly your help. This was by far hardest diagnosis I've ever had to figure out. I spent over 1,000k tracking down B******t dead end after dead end & replaced just fuel pump early on & it was coming out at tank but never making it past that. All this time and it was a fuel assembly I needed, no pressure, bad regulator I'm guessing? New one I installed today & my car has never came to life so quickly & purred so beautifully before. I literally would of lost a huge sentimental value with this car & you guys in this thread & guys over in wiring thread saved it. Thank you all, seriously thank you gentlemen & ladies if any. 👏👏👏👏