My family cars are getting older (2005 MDX, 2008 TL) and developed rust spots on some corners of body and various parts. My goal is to cease or at least delay rust to extend the life of the vehicles as much as I can at a moderate cost. Perfect appearance or color match is not my objective.

1. My 1st question is on rust converters. I learned the best would be to mechanically remove rust completely, epoxy prime, urethane prime, color base coat, and clear coat. Since I don't have a blaster, I'd miss some of the rust in the pits and tight corners. I wonder if it's beneficial or even critical to apply phosphoric acid or one of the other rust converters to convert the remaining rust chemically. I'll then clean any residue off with isopropyl alcohol (Is 70% appropriate?) before applying epoxy primer. Would the rust converter extend the life of repair if everything else is equal?

2. I don't have a powerful compressor to drive a spray gun and wonder if you may recommend a decent paint system that can be applied by spray cans or brushes. I searched and only found Sherwin-Williams Automotive Finishes in my area (Seattle, WA). I haven't found a local source serving consumers for PPG, Dupont, Kirker, etc. Dupli-color Perfect Match is available at auto parts stores but doesn't make one of my colors. If I have a choice, I'd like to use something that lasts longer than Dupli-color.

Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge!

This is an example of what I'm dealing with...

 

first thing is to remove that rubber strip that goes around your wheel well. that is what is creating the moisture build up creating rust.
take a sander and knock down as much rust as you can. looks like the structure is still workable (not ideal, but workable)
you will most likely have little holes due to the rust eating through.

once you knock off as much rust as you can, you can use a brush and apply a rust converter of your choice.
use a thin brush to push as much of the chemical into the holes. if the rust is accessible from the back side, apply the rust converter to it.
if accessible, use a wire brush to knock off loose rust.

rust converters normally apply white and turn black/purple once dried. (on rusted surface)

you can then apply an epoxy primer of your choice to the affected area.
rust will form again if the area is not repaired correctly. without a way to seal the holes (if any), it will come back.

since you are limited to tools, there is no right way for you to do it.
this method should hopefully delay the rust from forming again, but it will form again.

applying filler and fiberglass to reshape panel will only hide the rust and it will eventually get worst without you seeing it

good luck

 

Thank you very much for your help! Your suggestion of not applying filler and fiberglass is brilliant!

Would you please recommend some epoxy primer and paints that are accessible to consumers? I suppose I can get everything from Sherwin-Williams Automotive Finishes. They carry SprayMax 2k epoxy primer. I saw SprayMax also available on Amazon.

Another issue is it's too late for me to do a complete paint job right now because it's too cold and wet already. Instead, I plan to use a cocktail of automatic transmission fluid, P.B. Blaster Penetrant, and Dawn to slow down rust till next summer. Should I still remove loose rust and paint chips now before applying this cocktail?

Thank you again for your help!

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knock off loose rust and use a chemical that convert rust to primer.

 

On my honda cancer, I am using eldorado 3500 and ac-182 before using aircraft epoxy for steel and a zinc chromate wash primer. I ordered it from skygeek they have a bunch of mil spec epoxy and coatings.