Is there any difference between a stage 1 clutch and a stock one
It has been my experience that most of the cheap stage 1 clutches sold online end up being lower in quality and performance than an OEM replacement from Honda.
What are the specs for the Stage 1 kit you are looking at?
What are the specs for the Stage 1 kit you are looking at?
Brand matters. If it's an Exedy Stage 1, yes it will be slightly better than stock. If it's a cheap-o chinese XTD/whatever clutch, it's junk.
Make sure you at least use an OEM throwout bearing if you go with a china clutch kit.
Make sure you at least use an OEM throwout bearing if you go with a china clutch kit.
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I second Aradin, exedy stage1 can handle extra torque compared to OEM.
Re those XTD kits, it'll get the car moving if you NEED something cheap, but they don't last and are only worth the trouble if doing the labour to change it yourself, rather than paying a shop.
If paying a shop, definitely get it done right the first time. If you have no performance mods, OEM exedy is perfect
Re those XTD kits, it'll get the car moving if you NEED something cheap, but they don't last and are only worth the trouble if doing the labour to change it yourself, rather than paying a shop.
If paying a shop, definitely get it done right the first time. If you have no performance mods, OEM exedy is perfect
Im doing all the labor myself with the help of a friend.
I think I’m just going to get a cheep clutch
almost got the tranny out atm
I think I’m just going to get a cheep clutch
almost got the tranny out atm
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From: Tampa, FL, USA or Somewhere in the Caribbean
Cheap isn't necessarily a bad thing, but don't make the mistake of doing cheap + high stage. As in, a friend of mine bought a DC5 type-r integra with a stage 3 XTD and it was almost undriveable in stop and go traffic. Would have been much better with a stage 1 XTD or even an OEM replacement.
Anyway, check out rockauto.com, can literally get an entire exedy OEM replacement kit with clutch and pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing for $80 plus shipping (can google rockauto 5% coupon as well)
Don't think a cheapo clutch will cost much less than that to be honest, so that would definitely be what I suggest. OEM exedy is definitely MUCH better quality than any cheap no-name ebay clutch
Anyway, check out rockauto.com, can literally get an entire exedy OEM replacement kit with clutch and pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing for $80 plus shipping (can google rockauto 5% coupon as well)
Don't think a cheapo clutch will cost much less than that to be honest, so that would definitely be what I suggest. OEM exedy is definitely MUCH better quality than any cheap no-name ebay clutch
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Payment is still pending. Retract your order
Also, i think the advice in the thread was very clear about what to buy and what not to.
Also, i think the advice in the thread was very clear about what to buy and what not to.
Couldn’t get There in time already shipped
I didn’t see your post about how cheep I could get the higher brand until it was to late
I didn’t see your post about how cheep I could get the higher brand until it was to late
Clutches are rated based on how much they torque they can hold. how much torque does your motor make? That determines which clutch you pick.
What is XTD’s torque rating on their “stage 1” clutch?
what is exedy’s clutch rating?
different companies will have different ratings.
personally, I’d stay away from XTD and would rather have a stock replacement exedy.
im going to assume that your motor is stock, and nothing more than a stock rated clutch is needed.
remember, no matter how fancy your clutch is, it’s not going to matter if you’re dumping the clutch all the time thinking it can handle it because it’s a higher rated clutch. You’ll burn up a stage 5 whatever clutch just as fast as an oem stock clutch with bad launching/driving habits.
What is XTD’s torque rating on their “stage 1” clutch?
what is exedy’s clutch rating?
different companies will have different ratings.
personally, I’d stay away from XTD and would rather have a stock replacement exedy.
im going to assume that your motor is stock, and nothing more than a stock rated clutch is needed.
remember, no matter how fancy your clutch is, it’s not going to matter if you’re dumping the clutch all the time thinking it can handle it because it’s a higher rated clutch. You’ll burn up a stage 5 whatever clutch just as fast as an oem stock clutch with bad launching/driving habits.
I’ve got a integra with a b20b(different car) in it that came with 2 clutch kits (not shure what brand)
your telling me the torque from the b20b is messing up the clutch
the clutch feels stock to me idk
also what is the advantage/disadvantage of haveing a lightweight flywheel
your telling me the torque from the b20b is messing up the clutch
the clutch feels stock to me idk
also what is the advantage/disadvantage of haveing a lightweight flywheel
No. I’m saying that clutches are rated for torque.
You buy a clutch based off of the torque rating.
if you have a stock motor, buy a stock clutch.
a b20 in an integra is literally the same as b18b. They make within 5-10ftlb of torque of each other.
You buy a clutch based off of the torque rating.
if you have a stock motor, buy a stock clutch.
a b20 in an integra is literally the same as b18b. They make within 5-10ftlb of torque of each other.
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Lightweight flywheel like what you ordered = faster revving, the engine will spin up A LOT quicker.
Downside, revs drop quicker between shifts/whenever you are off the accelerator, so it takes some time to get used to it in stop and go driving. In hilly stop and go, it can be tricky sometimes to be honest, but once you adjust you should be ok.
Just make sure to break in the clutch and flywheel very gently for the first 500 miles.
Downside, revs drop quicker between shifts/whenever you are off the accelerator, so it takes some time to get used to it in stop and go driving. In hilly stop and go, it can be tricky sometimes to be honest, but once you adjust you should be ok.
Just make sure to break in the clutch and flywheel very gently for the first 500 miles.
Ok so I got it canceled… now I need a light weight fl
ywheel but I need it to ship kind of fast (if possible) for around 100 bucks
if not I can wait the 2 weeks for the ebay one
thanks for telling me about rockauto btw
this is what I found on there .. idk if any of them are light weight
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,1996,accord,2.2l+l4,1167410,transmission-manual,flywheel,5348
ywheel but I need it to ship kind of fast (if possible) for around 100 bucks
if not I can wait the 2 weeks for the ebay one
thanks for telling me about rockauto btw
this is what I found on there .. idk if any of them are light weight
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,1996,accord,2.2l+l4,1167410,transmission-manual,flywheel,5348
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From: Tampa, FL, USA or Somewhere in the Caribbean
Are you sure your original flywheel is bad to begin with? When you pull the transmission, clutch and pressure plate you can see and judge if it really needs replacing.
Note that a lighter flywheel isn't really vital for a stock honda F22. It won't make much difference to performance other than how quickly it revs. The way I see it, if your OEM flywheel is good, go ahead with that since you are on a budget. If it needs changing then the Luk flywheel on rockauto for $37 should be fine, honestly.
Really a matter of cost prioritisation and all that
Note that a lighter flywheel isn't really vital for a stock honda F22. It won't make much difference to performance other than how quickly it revs. The way I see it, if your OEM flywheel is good, go ahead with that since you are on a budget. If it needs changing then the Luk flywheel on rockauto for $37 should be fine, honestly.
Really a matter of cost prioritisation and all that
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