Does anyone know of a supplier that sells hubs to change from a 4 lug to 5 lug on 97 civic dx?

 

Nope.

Here are your options:

Integra/Civic Type R suspension swap. Swap complete front knuckles/rear trailing arms including brakes. JDM Integra swap will require upgrading outer CV joints to 28 spline.

Caveats: 96-00 knuckles are 11/32" shorter than 92-95 Civic/94-01 Integra/97-01 CR-V knuckles between the axle center and upper ball joint receiver. This jacks up your front geo and increases bottoming of the upper control arm to the tower.

Right way (in my opinion):

Fronts:
- Any 96-00 Civic knuckle from a 262mm front brake car (EX or Si trim)
- Press in USDM Integra R hubs
- Use Integra R front rotors/calipers
- 100% bolt on, correct geometry.
- Use Karcepts hubs if you want to upgrade to 28 spline outer joints: Karcepts, Inc. - Karcepts 36mm Swap Hubs / USDM 97-01 Integra Type R
- 97-01 CR-V knuckles are the same as 98+ JDM Integra type R knuckles and are an option, but with the same caveats listed above.

Rear:

- Any 92-00 Civic rear disc or 94-01 Integra trailing arm
- Use the Honed nut kit (https://honeddevelopments.com/produc...r-hub-nut-kit/) and Integra type R rear hubs/brakes.
- Type R rear calipers can be tough to find. You can substitute RSX/EP3 Civic rear calipers but they must be swapped left to right, leaving the bleeders pointing downward and thus requiring them to be bled off the car.
- 100% bolt on.

 

This. There are no quick 5 lug conversions...

 

No matter how short of an axle nut you use, it doesn't change the fact that the axle stub is too short for the 5 lug hub. The correct way to do it would be using an M22x1.5 lug nut for 22.5" Alcoa steel wheels and have a machine shop turn the OD of the sleeve down to the ID of the hub bearing.




I originally used the Mazda 626 REAR axle nut which is the actual shorter one compared to the front but it isn't good enough. You can barely see but this is how it ends up looking without a washer and the absolute shortest axle nut you can put on (626 rear) .

 

That’s exactly what the Honed kit is for. Most importantly, it retains the anti rotation washer. No more death traps. Your lug nut solution still sacrifices the washer and it’s critical to safety.

many years ago I mocked up with the 626 nut and refused to go forward with the install. It was sketchy AF.




edit: Better pic. Full thread engagement, stake-able. $70. At that price it’s not even worth the time and effort to machine something else:

 

The lug nut has a built in washer. It looks like the nut they sell is machined on the back side to provide more clearance and about 1/8" off the front as well. I'll have to take a look again at how much can be machined off the 626. Otherwise I ended up getting a pair of R spindles to not worry about it myself.

 

I ended up with R spindles too.

The flange on the nut is not the same as the washer. The key on the washer is what keeps it from ever rotating against the nut.

Again, they really haven't done anything you can't do yourself, but for the price they sell it for it's not worth the time unless you just really want to take the long road. If they wanted $300 for them or something, it would be a totally different story.

 

I wasn't talking about the flange of the axle nut being a washer.

 

Sorry. You definitely said the lug nut.