How's it hanging, I've owned my 1999 5th gen V-tiR Honda Prelude for about half a year now and am looking to build it into a street crunching forced induction machine,
So far i've put the following on the car;
- Racing coilovers
- Bride bucket and likewise shift ****
- Installed my own roll bar
- Rear & Front headlights
- Fresh to death Enki Rims
Now, For my forced induction LOS
- Tuner Series Throttle body
- Rc 750 cc flow matched fuel injectors
- Garret T3 T04E Turbo
- HKS GT II external waste gate OR GReddy type R blow off value
- Mishimoto Universal Intercooler
Greddy Profec Electronic boost Set up
- Spoon Racing Spark plugs ( No.24)
- Skunk2 tuner Stage 3 Camshafts
Now i realise this is a lot of info and what not, but this is my first project car at the age of 18yrs, and I will welcome any and every piece of advice i can take, this process is long and time consuming and i want to know what im doing before i jump into it and mess up. REALLY just wondering if this set up is sound and if there is anything else i should add to my list to make this set up both as clean and as mean as possible.
Thank you for your time and effort, all is appreciated. : )

WHP Goal : 400

 

400whp you will need a built engine. H series are much too fragile and picky to run that on a stock engine reliably. Due to the nature and material of the OEM FRM sleeves they must be replaced with sleeves that use a more traditional material that can be used with forged pistons.

300whp is a more reasonable goal on a stock engine. Skip the Skunk2 cams, stock are good for 700whp+. Also you may want to look into a more efficient, modern turbo. There are also much better injector options on the market nowadays.

 

My advice to an 18 year old: take all that money you were planning on spending on your car, and don't.

 

+1

 

Sounds like you two aren't nearly as "Car Crazy" as some of us here are.

 

I was, and I would go back and tell my 18 year old self that. Of course my 18 y.o. self wouldn't have listened.

 

you can think that we have been stupidly crazy about cars but....its just stupid

 

T3 T04E is kinda said to be outdated, its likely a journal bearing turbo so your going to want to stay ontop of the oil supply to it and use a turbo timer to cool the oil down upon shutdown. Its a good turbo though for what your tryiing to do, kind of the go-to really. They are affordable and are usually good to around 350hp. Like others have said, i'd take your 400hp goal and bring it down to around 300hp. The H22 and its FRM cylinder liners are a no go on forged pistons and the cast oem pistons are no good past 350hp or so because of their ringlands.

Clearly your going to need some more parts to complete your kit, like a manifold, fuel pressure regulator, a way to tune your ecu, charge piping, couplers and clamps. You'll need the bov you have and the external wastegate but only if your t3/t04e is designed for an external wastegate and isn't internally wastegated. The RC 750's are nice, those will work. The throttle body and cams aren't necessary, I'd sell them to gain some more spending cash for the build.

When I was 18 I dropped nearly $7k on my '94 CD5 Accord. I spent over $1k on front big brakes, $1,500 on sparco seats, $1,200 on TEIN coilovers, wheels, stereo etc. I basically did the opposite of what your doing in the sense that I didn't spend a dime making more power which is funny because it must just be the culture growing and knowledge spreading and times changing. Anyways my point is I loved how the car handled and stopped it was crazy fun to lay into the brakes @ 100+mph and just slow right the f down with no brake fade or warped rotors. ANYWAYS I regretted not making it faster and speding so much on parts that a fast car should have, just something to think about. Spend your $ wisely, you might think back when your older and see the $ as more than $ and feel like you wasted it so consider other upgrades and consider being conservitive when it comes to your turbo build. Keep it loose, keep it tight homie.

 

Cheers for the info my man, this is defiantly help me map it out, I've recently just jumped onto some slotted rotors and aftermarket callipers. Along with everything ive stated above is mainly just forced induction, but i still have other things i want to do to the car, such as respray (open door) and body kit etc.

 

That sounds like you reside in Europe. I'm going to Echo Ross 2004's sentiment, but in a different direction.

Take all the money you were planning on spending on your car, and don't. Just spiff it up, maintain it, get it clean. Build up some education and/or skills so that in 2-3 years you have a good case for a green card here in the 'States and can bring your car with you* before [political opinion deleted] and the continent implodes. Worst case scenario, that car can turn into a nice nest egg. Best case scenario, you're automatically one of the coolest dudes at the car meets.

In all seriousness, I've been daily-driving a completely stock 5th gen Prelude base (over here that was the ~200hp H22) for a couple years and the car is almost perfect as it is. I'd like a bit more power felt in 4th gear and less body roll. Its comfortable, it gets good fuel economy, its super fun to drive, and aesthetically its aged very well. I would temper your power goals. A small turbo, even if its a Chinacharger will be able to make enough power to make the car dangerous to drive on public roads, especially for an inexperienced driver. Start with some basics. Drop the transmission and put in a 12-14lb flywheel and a stage-1 Exedy clutch kit. Open up the exhaust a bit, and see how you feel with those mods.

The car might actually feel faster if you put the stock wheels and /stock size/ tires back on. My brother sold me the 17x8" forged Kosei wheels off his 8th gen Civic SI before he traded it in and I drove on them, and I thought they were hot stuff, certainly at least a kilogram lighter than the stock wheels and tires. Come winter, I bought new stock-size tires for the stock wheels and put them back on. The car literally drives like it has 10 more hp than it did before, I believe because while technically lighter, the 17" Kosei wheels and wider tires put more weight at the outside of the diameter, thus increasing the moment of inertia of the wheels.

*In the USA an automobile older than 25 years is exempt from crash-safety and emissions requirements and thus can be almost freely imported.

 

Hey mate, im actually from Australia and dont plan to leave anytime soon XD the H22Z1 is the Australian jap spec engine and is what im currently running, im also running a fully build Honda racing clutch and am about 10cm on ground clearance. I do genuinely agree with you on the idea of keeping it relatively low key for now, as im currently re wiring the car and am saving currently as like you said, ive got a bit of learning to do first.

Cheers for the help,,
Robbo