Hello world, So this is another CoPart special (for me). Purchase price is different than all in price? If so I won the car for 900 bucks but taxes, fees and towing I'm in for 2k. It's a 97 DX Automatic with EXTENSIVE service history, but HIGH miles. He's some pics of the car.





So the Car Fax shows the car is and original owner, and serviced at the same dealership since new. Here's the thing last mileage recorded was 207, 904, the last mileage recorded at the dealer was 207,744 in 2009. So my assumption is that it's been parked for over 10 years (as evident by the pictures). What does everyone think of the price paid all in (I didn't realized I was going to be charged 750 for towing, that totally shot my overall price).
I haven't even see the car or heard it start. Lets see. I'm hoping its a survivor and there's nothing catastrophic

 

Not everybody answer at once. So I finally took delivery of this car, and boy was it hurt. So exactly as I stated, in that it's been sitting for probably 11 years. Anything that's on a pivot or hinge is seized, starting with the hook latch. The cable was received broken as someone already tried to get it open, probably at the Copart lot. The driver's side door was completely sized as well and wouldn't open. The window was off the track and probably sat with the widow open for several years. No brakes to speak of but then again guild was really low, and obviously battery was completely dead. So 1st things 1st, the hood. After removing most of the bumper except what's under the hood, i was able to pry it back far enough and remove the 3 botls holding the latch and got the hood open. Pryed the door open by using a crowbar to get the door cover off of the top 1st, the. Spraying all the moving parts and exercising the mechanism, then opening the door and removing the panel. Changed the battery and starting going about trying to get it started. The oil was practically new, a little antifreeze added, the fuel didn't and doesn't smell bad so I added some additives to it and tried cranking it. It starts but then instantly dies. Stayed some started fluid and it stared, I got about 3 or 4 good revs then it died again. After it sitting for about half and hour it started right up no problem, purrs like a kitten then dies and doesn't start again. Leave it and it does it all over again starts, purrs then dies. Rinse wash repeat. I got tired of messing with it, and that's where I'm at.

 

It's been a few weeks and boy is this car rusty (in certain spots )

There were more spiders in here than a barn

I'd have to say it's just a but rusty. Does this add to stopping power ?

 

If the motor is rust free and not seized, it will be work it in the end I think. If the rings have created a rust spot in the cylinders, you got yourself a 2000 dollar paper weight low miles or not.

I moved our posts into a thread of your own as this now looks more like a project than just a what's it worth, or was it worth it post.

 

Thank you, I thought *knocks on microphone* this was a dead crowd or I was boring, lol (might still be true).

So as far as the car running, after going through the fuel system (changing the pump, filter, dropping the old gas) the car started right up (well after a few cranks. The motor hummed quietly with no loud knocks or weird noises. Then it started hunting/surging. I took the throttle body out and apart and cleaned the IACV. it was all black and crusted so it really needed it. Put it all back together and it still does it. So before I throw a new on at it, I realized I didn't take the electro magnetic part out ,cause on screw stripped on me, so I figured I didn't need to as now it looked nice and clean. After seeing a youtube video the guy said that I did a spray and pray cleaning, and the actual electro magnetic part should come off so I can spray and clean it and make sure it moves freely (it wasn't when I put it back). So I figure I'll try that before buying a new one (it's just time and not money). Then as you can see from the picture of the of the rusted rotors and breaks, I need to go through the system, and replace new where I can, I don't see anything drastic holding me back there. But again we'll see more when I get to those bridges. Thanks for the move and follow up

 

That looks like a nightmare, Kudos to you, Most wouldn't take on that project.

 

That rear quarter rust....

Cutting your losses might be a wise financial decision.

 

New (to me) OEM rims and tires
This car was a f***ING hassle to register (Thank you Copart for nothing ) I ended up having to go through Vermont. So after that whole fiasco , I finally was able to drive (legally) more than a few blocks, after changing the brakes, fluids, IAC valve, O2 sensor, a good car wash some OEM rims and tires and pretty much nothing else. She's been good. I haven't gone on a long haul but I've driven it about 500.miles in a few weeks. In the near future I'll work on these next small projects, Driver's window is a PITA to roll down order a new one an Amazon (reviews are spotty but it's cheap) and the OEM antenna is broken, so i got a new one as well. I want to clay wash the whole car, then buff it, and take it to a decent body shop and address the rust. I mean my goal is to stay as OEM with this car as possible (for a cheap price)