Mini-me horsepower?
Can I find a table of the horsepower of each mini-me combo, mainly all the blocks paired with the common head swaps. I know there's a calculator for this but using it has been difficult and something like this would make my life easier. Thanks!
I tend to think the Beast7 build netted the best performance upgrade on the single jingle setups without turbo. This was a D16A6 cam in the stock B7 motor with the 95 valve springs or use the A6 valve springs and retainers. Don't remember the year necessary for the cam but the results was pretty decent or so it seemed.
After that I am thinking the Y8 head on the B7 block was then next and it just goes down from there.
After that I am thinking the Y8 head on the B7 block was then next and it just goes down from there.
D series are pretty much maxed out stock. They are the grocery getter engines. The D16Z6 stock is about the best you will get in the D series. Maybe the JDM D15B vtec is right there. After that, it goes down hill. So max power is 124 BHP from the Z6.
The only reason the mini-me came about as it was a cheap little bump in power with junk they had laying around. It didn't really cost them anything and instead of 90 bhp, now they had maybe 103 bhp. That being said, there is very little support for it because it was just franken builds that no one was interested in.
You will have to do your own research if you want an actual list as no one cares about the no potential D.
The only reason the mini-me came about as it was a cheap little bump in power with junk they had laying around. It didn't really cost them anything and instead of 90 bhp, now they had maybe 103 bhp. That being said, there is very little support for it because it was just franken builds that no one was interested in.
You will have to do your own research if you want an actual list as no one cares about the no potential D.
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Yeah, by the sounds, OP was looking at NA D series setups. I understand the enthusiasm, but felt laying it out straight and truthful was the best policy. Not being mean, just being straight and honest about what will be found when researching. And also where the research onus resides.
Cool, thanks for being honest! I was actually thinking of connecting a turbocharger too, I'm guessing that changes the situation? I'm guessing it's better if I just tell you that my end goal is around 200-250 hp, my expectations were a mini-me build, plus specialty rods and pistons, as Ryan said.
My logic with the whole thing is that since I'm looking for a car that's quite old, all the engines, at least in my area, are going to show wear (EU). And even with that fact, people will sell civics with stronger engines for a way bigger price than they are really worth. So my plan was to get a car with a weaker engine, because I was going to swap the head anyway, due to said wear.
That's really the reason I asked for head/block combos, I'm still looking for the car/block, and I'd like to find one that's best for a mini-me setup like this. If you've any advice I'd greatly appreciate it!
My logic with the whole thing is that since I'm looking for a car that's quite old, all the engines, at least in my area, are going to show wear (EU). And even with that fact, people will sell civics with stronger engines for a way bigger price than they are really worth. So my plan was to get a car with a weaker engine, because I was going to swap the head anyway, due to said wear.
That's really the reason I asked for head/block combos, I'm still looking for the car/block, and I'd like to find one that's best for a mini-me setup like this. If you've any advice I'd greatly appreciate it!
For that power goal a power adder will be the only option to stay D series. At that point it doesn't really matter what head and block you run. Just keep adding boost until you hit your goal.
More a function of power output than how much boost pressure is being made.
You could make 200hp on 20psi with a baby turbo or 200 on 4psi with a big turbo. It is about mass flow rate.
You could make 200hp on 20psi with a baby turbo or 200 on 4psi with a big turbo. It is about mass flow rate.
For turbo, I would say you would want to lean towards the D16Z6 block as it was the one with two oil ports per crank journal. It's a bit friendlier on bearings in high power output setups.
Also typically, the majority of engine wear in these old D-series is typically the block. The heads usually just need a little refreshing and they are quite often good to go. Valve guides might be worn, but usually the cylinders and rings are for worse than the guides I have found.
Also typically, the majority of engine wear in these old D-series is typically the block. The heads usually just need a little refreshing and they are quite often good to go. Valve guides might be worn, but usually the cylinders and rings are for worse than the guides I have found.
I typically just post in the GDD, but my y7 turbo setup in 2006 made 185whp/175tq and was a super fun street vehicle. I spent maybe $800 on the turbo setup back then.
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