Help, temperature gauge Civic

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Old Oct 20, 2021 | 10:42 AM
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Nes@lisbon's Avatar
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Default Help, temperature gauge Civic

1990 Civic ee9.
so, now my b16a1, is with the temperature gauge max even with the car off. Changed termostat, changed temperature sensor, and changed valve temperature. Made all the readdings, all good, fans work perfect.
is there a way to fix the gauge???

Heres a pic, with engine off. 1st time cranking

Engine off, 1st time of day cranking
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 06:05 AM
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Default Re: Help, temperature gauge Civic

There are three "temperature sensors" on the engine. One is a thermocouple switch on the back side of the engine for the fan. The second is a digital sensor with a multi-pin connector below the distributer which feeds data to the ECU. The third is a single wire analog sending unit just above the second which changes it's resistance based on temp for the gauge cluster. This, and it's yellow/green wire that connects it to the cluster, are what you will need to focus on.

When the wire is open (disconnected), the gauge will read "H". To check the sender, use an ohm meter to check the resistance. At 133 degrees, it should show around 142 ohms. At 185 degrees, it should read between 32 and 49 ohms. If the sending unit is well out of spec, replace it. If not, there is something wrong with either the wire going to the cluster or the gauge itself.
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 07:32 AM
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Default Re: Help, temperature gauge Civic

Originally Posted by TacoCat
There are three "temperature sensors" on the engine. One is a thermocouple switch on the back side of the engine for the fan. The second is a digital sensor with a multi-pin connector below the distributer which feeds data to the ECU. The third is a single wire analog sending unit just above the second which changes it's resistance based on temp for the gauge cluster. This, and it's yellow/green wire that connects it to the cluster, are what you will need to focus on.

When the wire is open (disconnected), the gauge will read "H". To check the sender, use an ohm meter to check the resistance. At 133 degrees, it should show around 142 ohms. At 185 degrees, it should read between 32 and 49 ohms. If the sending unit is well out of spec, replace it. If not, there is something wrong with either the wire going to the cluster or the gauge itself.

One is a thermocouple switch: had check, its connected and the fan works great.
The second is a digital sensor with a multi-pin connector below the distributer which feeds data to the ECU: have changed already cause car was not running fans, changing it, Starter to work.
The third is a single wire analog sending unit: got it changed as well, done the readings, all good, having the fans working at around 50-40 ohms. Whitch is 80-100 degree celsius.

Cluster was working till ive got all changed. Notice that it was working even after i Change.
Any way have already all the cluster comming. Should arrive 2morrow. Let you guys know something after.
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