In the middle of installing skunk2 intake manifold and oil catch can on 95 civic d series naturally aspirated,
and here is a diagram of oil catch can and pics of where i need to know where the couple lines go.


Diagram of oil catch can

IN port of catch can connected directly to nipple in place of factory black box thing, that black box WAS going to pcv valve then into intake manifold, what shouldy connect there now?

OUT port of oil catch can straight to valve cover?

This part of fuel rail needs connected to intake manifold but the holes are different sizes so how could i connect them? The left hole i highlighted is what used to be connected to pcv valve then to black box. What goes there now? Do i tee off from the oil catch can to black box line to that port hole or plug it?

 

Bump

 

I'm working on it now

New problems



Look at that throttle cable bracket



I just routed the catch can as planned and capped the pcv hole on the IM

I want the cable bracket to be correct.
I searched and seen someone suggested this cable bracket from P73 ITR
Part number 16411-p73-000
?

 

The line you have going to your valve cover is wrong. That is a fresh air inlet to the crankcase, should run to your intake tube or have a filter on it.

Also, hose clamps on braided line - It will seep and get gross. Been there done that. Get yourself some push-on hose and better clamps.

 

But spAdam, do you see i have an oil catch can? I did what i seen in YouTube video here. Is he also wrong?

 

Yep, just watched the video.

That is in fact wrong. He has left no way for fresh air to get into the crankcase.

 

What about the air filter on top of the catch can?

anyone know which throttle cable bracket to use?

i want to dyno tune it with hondata but was also looking at this video that shows a mega squirt, i want to do that digital dash, but is megasquirt an ecu like the hondata or anyone know?

https://youtu.be/t_w6BzN3ac0

 

I got to drive it hard tonight and it's kinda faster, no big difference.

It's kinda bogging down in 3rd gear. No CELs but I think it needs tune up like spark plugs and stuff

but also dyno tuned or whatever

and i have a walbro better fuel pump but idk if it's in there now because rarely car won't start so i swap fuel pump thinking that's the problem.
fuel pump is slow to prime usually matter of fact.

please let me get a recommendation where to go next I'll post pics soon of vacuum lines and please tell me if filter on oil catch can vents air for crankcase ok

thanks

 

Bump

 

My alternator just died so that's a reason.

Flipped cable bracket and beat with hammer. Are those vacuum lines ok?


Is my catch can correct?

 

Get rid of the "Whale P***s" Intake pipe and get a smaller diameter one... like 2.5" I.D. pipe. It will make the same peak HP as what you have AND increase torque significantly in the mid-range.

 

I got rid of the whale and went back to my AEM brand 2.5" and you seem to be correct, thanks.

anybody got any other help, like i think it's running rich or something just need some advice

 

Surely going to need to be tuned. BTW your revised throttle cable looks better than where you started. I still think you have the wrong racket on there though.

You still don't have your can plumbed correctly. Does it have any baffling in it, or just a bunch of stainless mesh/scrubber type stuff? It says in and out on the can, which would make me think it's a recirculating can, but then it has a filter on top like an open can. Doesn't make much sense.

Edit: Just watched the last couple of minutes of the video. The way the guy says he doesn't like to hook it up is exactly what you should be doing.

Looks like you have one of these:
The right way to do it for your NA street car setup:

- Run a line from your back-of-block fitting to the 'IN' fitting of the can*. Should be at least a 1/2" (-8) but can be 5/8" (-10) if you want.
- Run a line from the 'OUT' fitting on the can to one of the ports on the front of your manifold plenum. It should be 3/8" (-6) line. Add an inline PCV valve somewhere along the length of line**. One of these will work fine: - Run a line from the nipple on the valve cover to the nipple on your intake tube.
- Remove filter on the catch can and cap off the nipple.

This will provide you way more then enough evacuation for your setup without being a dirty open can.. It will also allow you to clean the crankcase emissions and reburn the air as originally intended without depositing film in the intake manifold and combustion chambers. The line going to your intake tube provides fresh atmospheric air to the crankcase under most conditions and additional venting in rare cases of low flow to the can or high crankcase pressure). The inline PCV valve allows the manifold to scavenge and reburn scrubbed air under vacuum but closes up at wot.

The way you have it plumbed is all outs and no ins. Think of trying to get a breeze blowing through your house. It doesn't matter how many windows you open on one side of the house, you don't get cool until you open at least one on the other side.

* Note1: Since your can comes with the stainless media, I don't know if it has baffles or not. If it doesn't, the IN/OUT markings are irrelevant. Just hook up the lines in whatever way gets you the straightest shot.
** Note 2: a 1/2" outlet/3/8"inlet setup is enough for something along the lines of 600HP if your engine is healthy (but if your engine isn't healthy, no catch can will fix it). Going up to a 5/8"out isn't necessary for flow, but it can help by giving more surface area to help condense the fumes into liquid so they fall out into the can media.

 

Thanks, you seem to know what you're talking about more than the YouTuber so I'll do that asap.

i want to get her tuned but i need a new ecu first, right? I want to do the MegaSquirt route just so i can hook a monitor to use as a digital dash and all the options and features. I understand it's harder but what do y'all recommend

 

He also has a turbo car, so different requirements and more blow-by plus pressure in places where you have atmosphere, etc.

Megasquirt is great but is pretty advanced-user stuff. You'll still need to DIY a Raspberry Pi setup with a monitor to build an MS dash. Almost every tuning setup has a dash option of some kind at this point. Android tablets can run TunerView (https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...unerview&hl=en) with all of the OBD1 setups via Bluetooth (NepTune, HTS, Hondata, etc), and if you still want to play DIY there's always this:

https://hondash.com/

 

That hondash would be better for me i think. I like how they sell the kit with everything ready. I want to fit it in the dash in place of or on top of the gauge cluster. Will the monitor they provide allow that or can i use any monitor that has hdmi? I see this guy used a nexus android tablet.

 

The one in your video is a Bluetooth dongle and an Android app. The one I linked you to is an open source Raspberry Pi project. That one can use any hdmi display.

 

Agree with spAdam - your cable bracket looks MUCH better. I just ended up making my own on my car - I was surprised Skunk2 didn't supply a bracket that works / didn't make the manifold to re-use the stock bracket...but whatever.

I know Hondata S300v3 works with AiM dashes....possibly other brands too?

Unless you're going to learn to tune yourself, I recommend finding a competent tuner in your area and find out what tunable ECU options they are familiar with and recommend.

 

You should be able to clock the TB so the cable is even like my setup,

 

Wunfstgsr I didn't even consider rotating the TB but i did get that acura bracket i was talking about and it wasn't quite right either i had to weld pieces on it. Spadam i put the catch can just like you said and added pcv back and everything , I will add picture soon.

i want that ready to run kit on that hondash site, emailed info@hondash.com and
hondash.app@gmail.com
and messaged their Facebook but no response yet. Might have to just get hondata first.

dax those AiM dashes I didn't know about either. I was looking at this smaller one would fit well?

https://www.aim-sportline.com/en/products/mxs-1.2-strada/index.htm

 

He's in Spain so there's a big time difference, and the dash is his hobby so there might not be the quickest reply. You can't use the dash without an S300 or KPro anyway so you might as well start there.

 

https://www.aim-sportline.com/en/products-car.htm
interested in these aim dashes, would have to get one of the "strada" ones
oem gauge cluster is like almost 5" x like 12" so I could get the larger strada.

And i just pulled the trigger on this hondata s300 v3.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HONDATA-S300-V3-W-BLUETOOTH-in-OBD1-P28-VTEC-ECU-computer-S-300-honda-ecm-/131989130392?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m25 48.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I will do aim dash eventually. Do you foresee any problems plugging that in my 95 civic ex d16z6? The nearest dyno tuner is 2 hours away. Do i arrive at dyna tuner with it installed or install it there?

 

Look at the thread in the Forced Induction section by user @mynameisjustin - he has an AiM dash installed in a CRX so you can check to see how it looks...even though it's not an EG, you can get the idea.

I recommend towing your car to a dyno for the first time. Talk to the tuner and see what their requirements are for how much is assembled and how much they're willing to help you with once you get there.

 

I think I actually have the throttle body bracket you need from skunk 2 should work much better let me dig around and if i find it you can have it.

 

By the way, i used a special thicker gasket on my intake manifold, and it made the IM touch the firewall when i launch the car, it vibrates on it.

i got these solid urethane65 motor mounts to replace my urethane inserts and rubber mounts, specially my rear mount, which i barely got out because IM in way. but i got a set of three, but one doesn't seem to belong. Where does it go or is it a mistake?



The mystery mount

The mystery mount

Close to brake thing and iacv

Special thick gasket