So about a week ago I welded up my motor mounts and my dumbass forgot to disconnect the battery, causing something to fry. At first it would crank, get power to NOTHING and just keep blowing the ecu fuse. I replaced the under hood fuse box, eld, and replaced all capacitors inside the ecu, as well as a diode D5 for the fuel pump inside the ECU. Now the main relay clicks, the fuel pump primes, I’m getting power to everything (injectors and sensor under hood) but I crank it over and get no spark. I checked voltage coming to / from the dizzy and it’s correct, and the dizzy is pretty new. One thing I’ve noticed that weird, is when I turn the key to ig (II) I hear the fuel pump primes but the cel does not come on indicating that it primes, and none of the other dash lights do either (srs, oil, and battery). I have power to everything in the car, the only thing that doesn’t work is the 2 front blinkers / hazard lights (rears work). Also whenever they key is on ig (II) the windshield wipers get stuck on unless I unplug the fuse for them. I have checked the whole wiring harness for any shorts, as well as checking all grounds (tranny, battery, thermostat, valve cover, and the ground under the dash) and everything seems a ok. It’s a b20b swap in a 96 civic with pistons and rods, FBO, and a chipped and tuned p28 ecu with a obd2-obd1 conversion harness (no cps sensor) I really can’t figure this out for the life of me and would be great full if someone could point me in the right direction. I was thinking maybe there’s more in the ecu that’s fried, but with the ecu unplugged the Winshield wipers still go crazy with the ignition on, and I’m getting exactly 5v at my map sensor so I’ve been kinda ruling that out but I could be wrong. Before I welded up my motor mounts the car ran perfectly with no problems at all, and the cel showed up when priming the fuel pump, now it doesn’t. I tried running a jumper at the diagnosis port of the ecu to get a solid cel on my dash, but still no cel at all.

 

fuel at the injectors?

 

yea there’s fuel at injectors, and i believe there is injector pulse as well. I don’t have a test light, but with my multimeter the voltage drops up and down at the injectors while cranking the car.

 

check to see if the ecu is getting power?

 

yea the ecu is getting power. Before I replaced the D5 diode for the fuel pump in the ecu, it wasn’t getting power and kept blowing the ecu fuse, but it is getting power now. I did notice that half of the fuses in my underdash fuse box act as a ground and don’t get any power with ig (II). I know some fuses don’t get power all the time but it’s about half of them and they act as a ground so idk if that’s normal or not, I’m not the best electronics guy when it comes to cars haha.

 

so, going off of everything you said i'd check timing next

 

timing is good lol it’s clearly an electrical issue??? The car ran perfect until I welded up the motor mounts, has a newer timing belt too. What happened is the 200v from the welder went into the circuitry of the car frying something because I’m a dumbass and forgot to disconnect my battery

 

then you'll need to go back and verify again, ignition and fuel is a necessity to start the engine.

 

I think you missed something in my post. I have fuel, power at the ignition and all accessories but no spark, and the cel doesn’t come on when the fuel pump is priming like it should, or the oil or srs light with the ignition on. It’s a electrical problem because of the welder and me not disconnecting the battery.

 

ohm test the icm and igniter?

 

yea I tested both they are good. I swapped in a known working ecu today, and still the same thing it won’t start.

 

It finally runs!!!! After replacing a fuse box, all relays, resoldering main relay, rebuilding the ecu, rebuilding the dizzy, replacing the control module, and replacing the eld along with a ton of other miscellaneous electrical things. Everything I replaced was fried, it wasn’t just one thing, and there’s still a few more things fried causing blinkers and break lights not to work, but just in case anyone is as stupid as me, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE WELDING. It fried nearly every electrical component in my car, so if anyone is having the same problem, REPLACE EVERYTHING.

 

How did you conclude that you needed to replace each of those items? My EG b20 is about the same down to the wiper motor running nonstop and lack of certain dash lights.