So about a week ago, I decided to weld up my motor mounts because they were cracked, and my dumbass forgot to disconnect the battery and now I can’t get it to start. It’s a 96 civic with a b20b FBO pistons and rods, on a chipped / tuned p28 ecu. Every time I turn the key (IG II) on I blow the 15 amp EFI fuse under the hood and the windshield wipers get stuck on. I also get no lights on my dash, and no fuel pump priming but the starter cranks. I’ve done a lot of research and tests but can’t figure out the problem so I was wondering if someone here can help me out. The only things I’ve been able to do to stop the fuse from blowing is unplugging the main relay or ecu, or for some reason if I unplug fuse #13 under the dash then my EFI fuse won’t blow. Fuse #13 powers the srs unit and fuel pump. Anything else I unplug does nothing and the fuse still blows (I’ve unplugged fuel pump, injectors, map sensor, tps sensor, iac sensor, dizzy, alternator, and a few other things.) note that after this problem started I disconnected my viper alarm from the car, and I’m 99% sure I did it right but I could be wrong. Also I opened up the ecu, and their are 2 capacitors that are kinda Burnt up and corroded (the board is fine) but I can’t find any info on if that will cause a fuse to blow and no lights on the dash. I’ve also checked all grounds (transmission ground was fried but replaced it and it did nothing) and I’ve followed every wire I can possibly find on the harness to try and find a short but have yet to find anything. So if anyone can point me in the right direction, I would highly appreciate it. I just find it weird that with fuse #13 under the dash disconnected (fuse that powers srs / fuel pump) that the EFI / ECU fuse under the hood doesn’t blow (I believe fuse #44). Also I disconnected the srs unit and the fuse still blows. Also I’m not sure if it’s normal, but I have power 24/7 to the fuse box under the hood, even with the key out of the ignition.

UPDATE!!
so I bought a ecu rebuild kit and replaced all capacitors, but the car is still doing the same exact thing. I’m really stuck at this point and don’t know what to do. I have studied the ecu for hours and everything looks to be in amazing condition so I don’t think that could be the problem. But does anyone know what ecu I could use just to try and start the car? Will a stock p28 be able start it just to see if my ecu is bad? Because A stock p28 is from a single cam vtec I believe, and mine is a dual cam non vtec fully built na. Also I have a obd2-obd1 conversion harness. Sorry if I sound stupid, this is my first major electrical problem on a car that I’ve done myself. Usually I would have someone else do electrical work, but I can’t find anyone that will even diagnose what my problem is.

 

It finally runs!!!! After replacing a fuse box, all relays, resoldering main relay, rebuilding the ecu, rebuilding the dizzy, replacing the control module, and replacing the eld along with a ton of other miscellaneous electrical things. Everything I replaced was fried, it wasn’t just one thing, and there’s still a few more things fried causing blinkers and break lights not to work, but just in case anyone is as stupid as me, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE WELDING. It fried nearly every electrical component in my car, so if anyone is having the same problem, REPLACE EVERYTHING.