2015 CRV Doors unlocking by themselves
I own a 2015 Honda CR-V EX. I bought it used in 2018. Everything has been fine with it until about 3-4 days ago. Normally my car stays locked until i walk up and grab the door handle or the trunk and then all the doors unlock. The past 3-4 days my car is unlocking as soon as i get close to it automatically without touching it. This wouldn’t necessarily be a problem except when i get out and push the button on the door to lock my car it will lock and then 3 seconds later automatically unlock itself again. The only solution I’ve found is to walk a certain distance away from my car and lock it with the button on the key fob and then it won’t unlock. Has anyone ever had this happen before or know a solution? I’ve tried searching online before posting here but couldn’t find anything else.
It Happens in Our 98 CR-V Driver seat, apparently when I sit in Driver seat Doors Lock/ Unlock, When my larger other half's butt gets in Driver seat, It doesn't seem to happen.
Would say the seat switch is sticking or More Likely, The Key button has gotten dirty, sticky or? Did you get 2 Buttons?
Would say the seat switch is sticking or More Likely, The Key button has gotten dirty, sticky or? Did you get 2 Buttons?
2011 honda crv passenger door lock problems
I have passengers in my car who manually unlock the passenger front door. Up til the weekend my car was functioning fine. Now the passenger door will not lock with the automatic locks but it will unlock just fine. When I click the lock button I can hear the actuator functioning perfectly. Could there be something wrong with the actual lock part by the door handle itself. Please and thank you.
I have passengers in my car who manually unlock the passenger front door. Up til the weekend my car was functioning fine. Now the passenger door will not lock with the automatic locks but it will unlock just fine. When I click the lock button I can hear the actuator functioning perfectly. Could there be something wrong with the actual lock part by the door handle itself. Please and thank you.
Very probable the locking bar system is Drying out and cant pull or push lock easy , maybe take the time to take off door panel and spray can White lithium grease on all moving parts including window cross bars, and lower window slide. be prepared and get clips to replace the broken ones that will no doubt break a few. There is a panel clip tool, Napa online maybe, that gets behind the panel head and pops them out easier, Keep your Chilton book handy for easy panel removal and install.
I own a 2015 Honda CR-V EX. I bought it used in 2018. Everything has been fine with it until about 3-4 days ago. Normally my car stays locked until i walk up and grab the door handle or the trunk and then all the doors unlock. The past 3-4 days my car is unlocking as soon as i get close to it automatically without touching it. This wouldn’t necessarily be a problem except when i get out and push the button on the door to lock my car it will lock and then 3 seconds later automatically unlock itself again. The only solution I’ve found is to walk a certain distance away from my car and lock it with the button on the key fob and then it won’t unlock. Has anyone ever had this happen before or know a solution? I’ve tried searching online before posting here but couldn’t find anything else.
This is my exact car model and issue as well. My mechanic is saying they need to replace the door but I’m skeptical to pay for it. At this point I’m wondering if they can just turn off the automatic touch unlock function.
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So I’ve been dealing with this issue for a few months now and here’s what I learned as far as my (undamaged) 2015 CR-V:
- The passenger door handle has a manufacturing issue that makes it so the smart entry system is always live. So when you get within 5 feet of the vehicle with the fob, it unlocks as if you were touching the door handle while holding the fob.
- The manufacturing issue may be linked to the electrical wiring being messed up. My diagnosis at the Honda dealership said the wiring could be connected to the wiring for the antenna and that’s messing with it somehow.
- The issue with the door handle always staying live was causing a parasitic drain on my battery overnight to where I couldn’t even turn my car on into accessory mode the next day. I checked/replaced my car battery multiple times and the issue persisted so it was not an issue with the battery.
- My Honda dealership ordered the replacement door handle for me but the part is on back order and has no expected time of arrival (been waiting for 2 months now). They can’t figure out if Honda even makes the part anymore or if they can get it color matched.
- I’m currently in conversation with American Honda, for the past 2 months, requesting them to pay for this manufacturing issue and figure out why I can’t get a replacement part. They are incredibly slow so I don’t expect to solve this issue for awhile longer.
- I went into the interior fuse box and tried to disable the “smart entry” system so it wouldn’t drain my battery, and I could just use my car without it, but had no luck (I believe the smart entry system was linked to fuse 31 but it still worked after I removed it. Curious if this is because of the wiring issue involving the antenna).
- I went to a friend who is a mechanic and they were able to remove the interior passenger door panel and disconnect the wiring for the door handle so the touch sensors don’t work anymore. For anyone who needs a quick fix this was relatively easy to do. Fortunately, that worked! We confirmed the door handle was draining my battery and I can thankfully start my car again, just without the smart entry of the passenger door.
Basically, it seems like this is an manufacturing issue of 2015 Honda CR-Vs that I believe American Honda should pay to fix. Interested to hear if anyone else has experienced a similar story and if they were able to fix the issue a different way. Would like to make sure this issue keeps getting reported so Honda has records of the issue across this car model.
- The passenger door handle has a manufacturing issue that makes it so the smart entry system is always live. So when you get within 5 feet of the vehicle with the fob, it unlocks as if you were touching the door handle while holding the fob.
- The manufacturing issue may be linked to the electrical wiring being messed up. My diagnosis at the Honda dealership said the wiring could be connected to the wiring for the antenna and that’s messing with it somehow.
- The issue with the door handle always staying live was causing a parasitic drain on my battery overnight to where I couldn’t even turn my car on into accessory mode the next day. I checked/replaced my car battery multiple times and the issue persisted so it was not an issue with the battery.
- My Honda dealership ordered the replacement door handle for me but the part is on back order and has no expected time of arrival (been waiting for 2 months now). They can’t figure out if Honda even makes the part anymore or if they can get it color matched.
- I’m currently in conversation with American Honda, for the past 2 months, requesting them to pay for this manufacturing issue and figure out why I can’t get a replacement part. They are incredibly slow so I don’t expect to solve this issue for awhile longer.
- I went into the interior fuse box and tried to disable the “smart entry” system so it wouldn’t drain my battery, and I could just use my car without it, but had no luck (I believe the smart entry system was linked to fuse 31 but it still worked after I removed it. Curious if this is because of the wiring issue involving the antenna).
- I went to a friend who is a mechanic and they were able to remove the interior passenger door panel and disconnect the wiring for the door handle so the touch sensors don’t work anymore. For anyone who needs a quick fix this was relatively easy to do. Fortunately, that worked! We confirmed the door handle was draining my battery and I can thankfully start my car again, just without the smart entry of the passenger door.
Basically, it seems like this is an manufacturing issue of 2015 Honda CR-Vs that I believe American Honda should pay to fix. Interested to hear if anyone else has experienced a similar story and if they were able to fix the issue a different way. Would like to make sure this issue keeps getting reported so Honda has records of the issue across this car model.
I have this exact same issue. The sensor in the door acts like it is always detecting a presence under the handle. It constantly cycles and drains a battery.
This is definitely an issue.
This is definitely an issue.
So I’ve been dealing with this issue for a few months now and here’s what I learned as far as my (undamaged) 2015 CR-V:
- The passenger door handle has a manufacturing issue that makes it so the smart entry system is always live. So when you get within 5 feet of the vehicle with the fob, it unlocks as if you were touching the door handle while holding the fob.
- The manufacturing issue may be linked to the electrical wiring being messed up. My diagnosis at the Honda dealership said the wiring could be connected to the wiring for the antenna and that’s messing with it somehow.
- The issue with the door handle always staying live was causing a parasitic drain on my battery overnight to where I couldn’t even turn my car on into accessory mode the next day. I checked/replaced my car battery multiple times and the issue persisted so it was not an issue with the battery.
- My Honda dealership ordered the replacement door handle for me but the part is on back order and has no expected time of arrival (been waiting for 2 months now). They can’t figure out if Honda even makes the part anymore or if they can get it color matched.
- I’m currently in conversation with American Honda, for the past 2 months, requesting them to pay for this manufacturing issue and figure out why I can’t get a replacement part. They are incredibly slow so I don’t expect to solve this issue for awhile longer.
- I went into the interior fuse box and tried to disable the “smart entry” system so it wouldn’t drain my battery, and I could just use my car without it, but had no luck (I believe the smart entry system was linked to fuse 31 but it still worked after I removed it. Curious if this is because of the wiring issue involving the antenna).
- I went to a friend who is a mechanic and they were able to remove the interior passenger door panel and disconnect the wiring for the door handle so the touch sensors don’t work anymore. For anyone who needs a quick fix this was relatively easy to do. Fortunately, that worked! We confirmed the door handle was draining my battery and I can thankfully start my car again, just without the smart entry of the passenger door.
Basically, it seems like this is an manufacturing issue of 2015 Honda CR-Vs that I believe American Honda should pay to fix. Interested to hear if anyone else has experienced a similar story and if they were able to fix the issue a different way. Would like to make sure this issue keeps getting reported so Honda has records of the issue across this car model.
- The passenger door handle has a manufacturing issue that makes it so the smart entry system is always live. So when you get within 5 feet of the vehicle with the fob, it unlocks as if you were touching the door handle while holding the fob.
- The manufacturing issue may be linked to the electrical wiring being messed up. My diagnosis at the Honda dealership said the wiring could be connected to the wiring for the antenna and that’s messing with it somehow.
- The issue with the door handle always staying live was causing a parasitic drain on my battery overnight to where I couldn’t even turn my car on into accessory mode the next day. I checked/replaced my car battery multiple times and the issue persisted so it was not an issue with the battery.
- My Honda dealership ordered the replacement door handle for me but the part is on back order and has no expected time of arrival (been waiting for 2 months now). They can’t figure out if Honda even makes the part anymore or if they can get it color matched.
- I’m currently in conversation with American Honda, for the past 2 months, requesting them to pay for this manufacturing issue and figure out why I can’t get a replacement part. They are incredibly slow so I don’t expect to solve this issue for awhile longer.
- I went into the interior fuse box and tried to disable the “smart entry” system so it wouldn’t drain my battery, and I could just use my car without it, but had no luck (I believe the smart entry system was linked to fuse 31 but it still worked after I removed it. Curious if this is because of the wiring issue involving the antenna).
- I went to a friend who is a mechanic and they were able to remove the interior passenger door panel and disconnect the wiring for the door handle so the touch sensors don’t work anymore. For anyone who needs a quick fix this was relatively easy to do. Fortunately, that worked! We confirmed the door handle was draining my battery and I can thankfully start my car again, just without the smart entry of the passenger door.
Basically, it seems like this is an manufacturing issue of 2015 Honda CR-Vs that I believe American Honda should pay to fix. Interested to hear if anyone else has experienced a similar story and if they were able to fix the issue a different way. Would like to make sure this issue keeps getting reported so Honda has records of the issue across this car model.
So I gave up and returned to HONDA they kept car over night and next day said HOOD LATCH was the parasitic draw and wanted $500- LATCH cost $102.00. Told em hell no.
What a racket. Watched a lot of YOUTUBE videos and they always come back to fuse 29 and that corresponds to fuse 29 under dash fuse box also. That is where I left off, and looked at many areas to question, LIKE the passenger seat TRW SRS module that weighs the passenger to adjust crash settings. Also will do the Hood latch which I replace 1 year ago but has no problems (except from Honda mechanic). I bypassed the hood latch when I check parasitic draw, so really doubtful of this being problem just a rip off technic used by HONDA to make money and it is always around $500. MY Problem now is finding electrical diagram for hood latch... cannot tell where the wire goes to from latch and what fuse??? Car bought new and has 93K on it.
This is a major defect by Honda. Will not address.. Better find your door part WEB not honda.
My honda dealer said it was the door key lock damaged, someone tried to jimmy lock. same car.
Last edited by tech8; Jul 11, 2022 at 11:21 AM. Reason: Multiple posts merged.
I have same car, 2015 CRV-EX and same problem (parasitic draw). Took to HONDA Dealer and said it was drivers door lock was damaged. So we thought someone tried to use a different key and force the lock, instead damaged lock. Replace lock and had to rekey lock. $500. It worked for 14 months and battery dead again. I thought it was that lock again, so I ordered part from HONDA $167.00 DID NOT FIX. Installed new door lock actuator for $65.00 no help.
So I gave up and returned to HONDA they kept car over night and next day said HOOD LATCH was the parasitic draw and wanted $500- LATCH cost $102.00. Told em hell no.
What a racket. Watched a lot of YOUTUBE videos and they always come back to fuse 29 and that corresponds to fuse 29 under dash fuse box also. That is where I left off, and looked at many areas to question, LIKE the passenger seat TRW SRS module that weighs the passenger to adjust crash settings. Also will do the Hood latch which I replace 1 year ago but has no problems (except from Honda mechanic). I bypassed the hood latch when I check parasitic draw, so really doubtful of this being problem just a rip off technic used by HONDA to make money and it is always around $500. MY Problem now is finding electrical diagram for hood latch... cannot tell where the wire goes to from latch and what fuse??? Car bought new and has 93K on it.
This is a major defect by Honda. Will not address.. Better find your door part WEB not honda.
My honda dealer said it was the door key lock damaged, someone tried to jimmy lock. same car.
So I gave up and returned to HONDA they kept car over night and next day said HOOD LATCH was the parasitic draw and wanted $500- LATCH cost $102.00. Told em hell no.
What a racket. Watched a lot of YOUTUBE videos and they always come back to fuse 29 and that corresponds to fuse 29 under dash fuse box also. That is where I left off, and looked at many areas to question, LIKE the passenger seat TRW SRS module that weighs the passenger to adjust crash settings. Also will do the Hood latch which I replace 1 year ago but has no problems (except from Honda mechanic). I bypassed the hood latch when I check parasitic draw, so really doubtful of this being problem just a rip off technic used by HONDA to make money and it is always around $500. MY Problem now is finding electrical diagram for hood latch... cannot tell where the wire goes to from latch and what fuse??? Car bought new and has 93K on it.
This is a major defect by Honda. Will not address.. Better find your door part WEB not honda.
My honda dealer said it was the door key lock damaged, someone tried to jimmy lock. same car.
I just noticed the same thing with my 2015 CR-V touring. I am the original owner and never had this problem. For the past few days, I noticed that my door was unlocked when I came back to the car. I thought perhaps I had not locked the door properly. Then, I saw that the doors where unlocking, by themselves, due to key fob proximity. Only way to lock is to go some distance away and remotely lock the car...
Im having the exact issue with my 2016 CRV. The doors keep unlocking as I’m walking away from my vehicle. I’ve replaced 3 batteries as we thought they were faulty batteries but it seems this random unlocking is causing the battery to drain dead. Did you disconnect both driver and passengers door handle wiring? Or how did you know which one was causing the issues?
thanks a lot for your help with this frustrating issue.
thanks a lot for your help with this frustrating issue.
I have a 2015 Honda CRV EX-L with 100,000 km on it - have replace the battery three times and had multiple instances in which we have had to jump start the vehicle as the battery is dead if the CRV sits for a few days. Additionally the driver door would unlock and lock as we would walk away from the vehicle - so we took it to our mechanic. He replaces the latch assembly and several modules within the vehicle in addition to doing a few days of diagnostic - the parasitic draw still remained. If I pulled the fuse 29 in the engine at night I would have no issues I then took it to Honda. They noted the driver latch assembly and door handle need replacing - and pulled the the power from the driver door (ie. no more sensor), however my mechanic re-tested and noted a draw 2x normal still remains if the doors are unlocked and 4x if locked. I called Honda Canada and outlined the concerns and lawsuits I’ve seen occurring in the US as it pertains to battery issues - this is clearly a Honda issue. They refused to assist with any diagnostic assistance if their recommended fix (replace the driver door handle) does not work (cost is approx $600). Interestingly enough now the passenger door is unlocking and locking as we walk away - is it possible both door systems are faulty and causing the draw?? The truck will also not open even if all the doors are unlocked - unless you have the key fob in your pocket.
thanks
thanks
If any of you live near State College PA, look up the youtuber Pine hollow auto diagnostics and have him fix it, and hope he makes a video of it.
It will not be a waste of $ like going to a shop or dealer.
It will not be a waste of $ like going to a shop or dealer.
I just noticed the same thing with my 2015 CR-V touring. I am the original owner and never had this problem. For the past few days, I noticed that my door was unlocked when I came back to the car. I thought perhaps I had not locked the door properly. Then, I saw that the doors where unlocking, by themselves, due to key fob proximity. Only way to lock is to go some distance away and remotely lock the car...
I have a 2015 Honda CR-V that started having this issue about 2 week ago. The battery was fully drained on fine morning. It is being driven a few times a week and it always started immediately. The battery was a little over two years old. I thought the battery was the problem and replaced it. But, 5 days later it was fully drained. I recharged the battery at a local auto parts store. I looked at the voltage drop across all fuses following the method described in YT videos. I see a voltage drop of about 1.8mV (a little over 200 mA drain) at fuse #29 labeled "Backup". If I disconnect all the wiring to the driver side door (three connectors), the voltage drop across at that fuse is 0.8 mV, still over 100 mA. I have read what others have described in this thread and I am feeling discouraged about finding a fix. I would appreciate any helpful advice from more knowledgeable folks here. Thank you!
Update here. Driver's side door handle is my confirmed issue. They believe the smart entry system is constantly active thus draining my battery (at least this time - not sure about all of the other times in the past...I think there's something else also causing parasitic battery drain). Parts and labor were quoted at $910. Fortunately, this was covered by my Honda extended warranty. Never thought I'd be happy to hear the words, "your car's extended warranty!"
I have a 2015 Honda CR-V that started having this issue about 2 week ago. The battery was fully drained on fine morning. It is being driven a few times a week and it always started immediately. The battery was a little over two years old. I thought the battery was the problem and replaced it. But, 5 days later it was fully drained. I recharged the battery at a local auto parts store. I looked at the voltage drop across all fuses following the method described in YT videos. I see a voltage drop of about 1.8mV (a little over 200 mA drain) at fuse #29 labeled "Backup". If I disconnect all the wiring to the driver side door (three connectors), the voltage drop across at that fuse is 0.8 mV, still over 100 mA. I have read what others have described in this thread and I am feeling discouraged about finding a fix. I would appreciate any helpful advice from more knowledgeable folks here. Thank you!
Update here. Driver's side door handle is my confirmed issue. They believe the smart entry system is constantly active thus draining my battery (at least this time - not sure about all of the other times in the past...I think there's something else also causing parasitic battery drain). Parts and labor were quoted at $910. Fortunately, this was covered by my Honda extended warranty. Never thought I'd be happy to hear the words, "your car's extended warranty!"
Another 2015 CRV EX-L owner with the same "auto unlocking" feature that has started happening several months ago. I have owned the car since new, no accidents or damage to the car.
I came here from another CRV forum with a few others with the same problem.
Original battery lasted 39 months. Replaced at dealer with the Honda "100-month" battery.
This second battery lasted just over four years; replaced again a few months ago with another Honda 100-month battery. (at least some pro-rated discount).
Recently, came home after five days, battery dead as a doornail.
Putting the car on a trickle charger later today to (hopefully) get it running.
Anyone have a solution yet?
I came here from another CRV forum with a few others with the same problem.
Original battery lasted 39 months. Replaced at dealer with the Honda "100-month" battery.
This second battery lasted just over four years; replaced again a few months ago with another Honda 100-month battery. (at least some pro-rated discount).
Recently, came home after five days, battery dead as a doornail.
Putting the car on a trickle charger later today to (hopefully) get it running.
Anyone have a solution yet?
No answers, but a few observations:
As described in an earlier post, came back after a 5 day vacation to a dead battery (around 4v). Put it on a charger- the battery would not charge back up over 12v. Since there was an issue with the battery install at the deater a few months ago (long story), I got a new battery (N/C from the dealer), which I installed myself Saturday 10/15.
I've been keeping an eye on the voltage, to see what kind of drop is happening. I have not locked the car since installing the new battery. Battery seems to be dropping from about 12.6/ 12.7 to 12.3/ 12.4 overnight. Not sure if this is normal or not.
I have been driving with the lights on to ensure that the battery is receiving the higher charge rate, around 14.2.
Not 100% confident in the car yet.
As described in an earlier post, came back after a 5 day vacation to a dead battery (around 4v). Put it on a charger- the battery would not charge back up over 12v. Since there was an issue with the battery install at the deater a few months ago (long story), I got a new battery (N/C from the dealer), which I installed myself Saturday 10/15.
I've been keeping an eye on the voltage, to see what kind of drop is happening. I have not locked the car since installing the new battery. Battery seems to be dropping from about 12.6/ 12.7 to 12.3/ 12.4 overnight. Not sure if this is normal or not.
I have been driving with the lights on to ensure that the battery is receiving the higher charge rate, around 14.2.
Not 100% confident in the car yet.



