Installing VanTrue OnDash N4 on '97 Honda CX
I got a VANTRUE OnDash N4 dashcam for my 1997 Honda CX, D167-2 KA 5MT, and I'm new to the electronics part of it. I also bought the "Vantrue 11.5ft Type C USB 12V 24V to 5V Dash Cam Hardwire Kit with Mini, ACS, ATO, Micro2 Add a Circuit Fuse Holders, Low Voltage Protection for N4, N2S Dash Cam" and I have taken a couple of scans from the FSM: one the fusebox layout and the other a list of the specific fuses. My Honda comes from Canada and I've been trying to locate the appropriate fuse in the "Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box" for the starter and also the fuse for the "Always On" switch in the "Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box" - or are they one and the same? Or is the correct fuse a relay under the hood? I have a multimeter and a basic continuity pick with a bulb and a ground clip. It looks like only the multimeter's probes can fit into the tiny fuses in the fuse box, though.
My problem is that "Canada" and " Not used (96-97) models" on pg. 23-64 indicate different things. The list on pg. 23-65 further confuses me.
I don't have a clue as to how to safely proceed so that I don't do any damage to the vehicle or the dashcam. I'd deeply appreciate any assistance.
Thank you for your attention.
Page 23-64
Page 23-65

My problem is that "Canada" and " Not used (96-97) models" on pg. 23-64 indicate different things. The list on pg. 23-65 further confuses me.
I don't have a clue as to how to safely proceed so that I don't do any damage to the vehicle or the dashcam. I'd deeply appreciate any assistance.
Thank you for your attention.
Page 23-64

Page 23-65

There is a difference in "Made in Canada" and "Made for Canada". What Country do you live in and was the vehicle sold in that Country ?
Hello, thanks for your reply. A VIN Decoder supplied the info that I'm using. In "Tech Specs" it indicated: "Manufactured By Canada Cars." It was bought new in South Dakota.
It really doesn't make any real difference whether your car is Canada or not for what you are trying to do.
With the hard wire kit, you are either going to connect the power wire to a power source that is either (1) switched power (i.e., power with ignition in ON position) or (2) always hot.
With the add-a-circuit, you would just find a fuse slot that does not exceed 10 amps.
For example, under-dash Fuse No. 15, 16, 17 have power with the ignition switch in the ON position and the fuse slots are 7.5A. You can use these slots and many other fuse slots in the under-dash fuse box that provide power with the ignition in the ON position. When the power wire is hooked up this way, the dash cam is on only if the ignition switch is in the ON position (for example, when driving).
If you wanted the dash cam to always be on (such as for surveillance too), then you would hook up the power wire to a constant "always on" power source.
With the hard wire kit, you are either going to connect the power wire to a power source that is either (1) switched power (i.e., power with ignition in ON position) or (2) always hot.
With the add-a-circuit, you would just find a fuse slot that does not exceed 10 amps.
For example, under-dash Fuse No. 15, 16, 17 have power with the ignition switch in the ON position and the fuse slots are 7.5A. You can use these slots and many other fuse slots in the under-dash fuse box that provide power with the ignition in the ON position. When the power wire is hooked up this way, the dash cam is on only if the ignition switch is in the ON position (for example, when driving).
If you wanted the dash cam to always be on (such as for surveillance too), then you would hook up the power wire to a constant "always on" power source.
In your under dash fuse box there are three empty connectors, labeled 1-3 in your diagram above. There is on always hot, one hot in on/start, and one hot with the dash lights on. You’ll have to prove to figure out which is which or look at the FSM to figure it out. Just use a spade to tap them for power. No need to use the add-a-circuit in the fuse panel. They are all appropriately fused.
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