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I have a '94 civic and I am trying to replace the timing belt and am currently struggling with the pulley bolt, I have read about a dozen other forums but I am having no success. The pulley is rounded on the inside no hex, I have tried 1/2 inch electric impact wrench air impact wrench rated for 1150 ft lbs doused in wd-40 Giant *** breaker bar that broke a socket this is a tough nut to crack also blow torched a little and hammered. Any suggestions? really just need this to get done
Must be rusted to **** in there....are you spinning it the correct way?
In which direction is the correct way? It's not reverse threaded right? I am turning counter clockwise. Currently attempting with a breaker bar to no avail. Thanks
if it's a manual put it in gear and put a big screwdriver in one or both front brake rotors to lock things up.
worked every time for me until i got the hex tool.
if not get the torch....
if it's a manual put it in gear and put a big screwdriver in one or both front brake rotors to lock things up.
worked every time for me until i got the hex tool.
if not get the torch....
I tried putting it in gear and it still rotates a little also tried having someone step on the brakes but this bolt refuses to come out I have also torched it with the yellow butane and whacked on it still nothing tried heating it with a blowtorch and use the air impact which is rated for 1190 lbs and it didn't budge.
if it's a manual put it in gear and put a big screwdriver in one or both front brake rotors to lock things up.
worked every time for me until i got the hex tool.
if not get the torch....
This is a great way to break a clutch hub. Been there, done that.
Clutches are rated for mmmaayybbeee 150ft/lbs doesn't take much to double or triple that with a cheater bar.
I use a nasty 1/2 air impact on 150psi with a heavy wall weighted socket specifically for the task of Honda crank pulley bolts. Hasn't failed me yet.
This is a great way to break a clutch hub. Been there, done that.
Clutches are rated for mmmaayybbeee 150ft/lbs doesn't take much to double or triple that with a cheater bar.
I use a nasty 1/2 air impact on 150psi with a heavy wall weighted socket specifically for the task of Honda crank pulley bolts. Hasn't failed me yet.
This information is critical... they work amazing. They can be purchased online or on your local tool truck (Snap On, Matco or GearWrench). The Lyle brand can be found online.
if it's a manual put it in gear and put a big screwdriver in one or both front brake rotors to lock things up.
worked every time for me until i got the hex tool.
if not get the torch....
Not sure you grasped the entire method here. Put it in gear and put a big screwdriver in the front brake rotor to lock it up... Then turn the key and BUMP THE STARTER. Let the starter motor break it loose.
Not sure you grasped the entire method here. Put it in gear and put a big screwdriver in the front brake rotor to lock it up... Then turn the key and BUMP THE STARTER. Let the starter motor break it loose.
That makes even less sense. Now the transmission AND bolt are fighting the starter. And you are going to have the clutch fully depressed anyway for the starter interlock to allow the starter to function.
I think you mean put a breaker bar on the bolt and brace the end of the breaker bar against the ground (or frame) and then bump the starter. But does that work on a CCW rotation engine?
That makes even less sense. Now the transmission AND bolt are fighting the starter. And you are going to have the clutch fully depressed anyway for the starter interlock to allow the starter to function.
I think you mean put a breaker bar on the bolt and brace the end of the breaker bar against the ground (or frame) and then bump the starter. But does that work on a CCW rotation engine?
Wait, you are right, it makes no sense whatsoever. I think I was remembering an axle nut problem, and probably on a different vehicle. Yeet, sorry. I hate misinformation, I apologize. But thanks for calling it out, because maybe someone will think there is an easy way to use the starter to solve this problem and read this and realize there is not.
I've always done these by hand with my 750 ft-lb torque multiplier and a 36 inch breaker bar. Almost no effort at all. I also have a custom 2 post lock bar for the non-vtec pulleys that don't have the hex hole in them.
I have also pushed out a wheel bearing without removing the c-clip once with the torque multiplier. Needless to say, I had to go pick up a replacement knuckle on that adventure.
This information is critical... they work amazing. They can be purchased online or on your local tool truck (Snap On, Matco or GearWrench). The Lyle brand can be found online.
No they are specifically weighted impact sockets. General impact sockets are just rated for use with impact tools but are not specifically heavier for greater impact.
Some have a flywheel ring and others have an extra extra thick wall and are solid core for extra mass. They also come with a handsome price tag. See comparison imagine below. Normal impact socket vs weighted impact socket.
I'll second the weighted sockets. I've got a Lisle brand 17mm and 19mm - they work every time.
Regarding the non-VTEC (non-hex) crank pulley - I bought a crank pulley tool about 15 years ago that has a breaker bar with two attachments - one is the typical hex, the other works with the non-hex pulleys. It's basically got a pin that fits in one of the holes on the face of the pulley. I've searched for this tool to show others where to buy it but can't seem to find it online anywhere.
Always had trouble with these. After coming so close to buying a big electric impact at harbor freight (with mixed crank-pulley results in the reviews) I opted instead for a 3/4" breaker bar (harbor freight), 3/4" extension set (amazon) and 3/4" socket (amazon). After lowering the car enough to wedge a 1/2" breaker with the honda crank tool into the ground, I was ready. I supported the 3/4" socket & extensions (sticking out past the fender) with a jack stand and began torqueing with the 3/4" breaker bar and a jack-handle to extend it out a bit a longer. Unlike a regular half inch breaker bars, this bad boy didn't flex or bounce at all. Bolt gave way as soon as I put serious weight on it.
Just as easy torqueing the bolt back on with the 30* degree method shown in more modern manuals.
I've used this setup on two daily driver J series V6s and both times the bolt came out without ANY drama. I had always had a lot of extra trouble with the Honda V6 bolt up until this point, I had done 4 prior to this and it was a nightmare each time.
BTW: The larger diameter 3/4" sockets fit the inside of the honda crank holder tool a lot better than 1/2" sockets. My 19mm dewalt socket had an almost perfect fit and really helped hold the tool in place.
^this. $20 hell, $40. Let them knock it loose then torque it back to spec. Then you be able to drive back home safe and break it loose again to do the job.
do yourself a favor and get a new bolt since you’ve been beating the crap out of that one. And probably a new crank pulley since you put the blue-tip wrench (torch) on the one that’s already on the car.
I'll second the weighted sockets. I've got a Lisle brand 17mm and 19mm - they work every time.
Regarding the non-VTEC (non-hex) crank pulley - I bought a crank pulley tool about 15 years ago that has a breaker bar with two attachments - one is the typical hex, the other works with the non-hex pulleys. It's basically got a pin that fits in one of the holes on the face of the pulley. I've searched for this tool to show others where to buy it but can't seem to find it online anywhere.
I believe this is an equivalent. I don't remember the honda part number for the one I think you have and can't seem to find online anymore. But this OTC should do the same thing.
^this. $20 hell, $40. Let them knock it loose then torque it back to spec. Then you be able to drive back home safe and break it loose again to do the job.
do yourself a favor and get a new bolt since you’ve been beating the crap out of that one. And probably a new crank pulley since you put the blue-tip wrench (torch) on the one that’s already on the car.
^this. $20 hell, $40. Let them knock it loose then torque it back to spec. Then you be able to drive back home safe and break it loose again to do the job.
do yourself a favor and get a new bolt since you’ve been beating the crap out of that one. And probably a new crank pulley since you put the blue-tip wrench (torch) on the one that’s already on the car.
I def did this for my cousins civic when my other cousins air impact wouldn't do the trick. He had a small compressor so it wasn't helping.
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Removal?
Re: Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Removal?
