The AC on my 2002 CR-V died the other day. It had been working fine for the year or so that I've had it.

The light on the dash comes on as well as the condenser fans. I removed the front splash shield and inner fender liner enough so that I could see that the compressor clutch is not turning. I poked it a few times thinking maybe I had an air-gap issue, but it does not engage. I see no sign of a system
leak anywhere, and indeed the system appears full (I put gauges on).

I can see that the compressor is an aftermarket, so I am somewhat hopeful that I don't have the black-death scenario.

My question at the moment is.. how the heck do you even get in there to check for voltage at the compressor? I knew these compressors were hard to get at, but man..!

I'm curious what the favorite approach is here. And once I can make the call that the compressor needs to be replaced I'm going to need advice as to how best to get it out of there.

Anyway thanks in advance for any and all help! I love this CR-V.

 

Could be the compressor relay or the thermal fuse on the compressor.

 

Follow the wire from the compressor. There is a connection just about left of center along the lower rad support area. The wire is barely long enough so be careful not to pull the connector pin out of the socket.
Also try to turn the actual compressor by hand ( not the outer clutch) . If it jams in either direction its toast. In that case the lines need to be flushed and the condenser needs replaced or at the least the receiver/ dryer filter needs to be replaced.

 

Thanks guys for the feedback.

I unplugged the connector and I have 14.45v (alternator voltage) at the connector on-and-off with the AC switch.

I can't imagine I need to go any further. Time to order up a compressor I think?

 

Check the thermal fuse on the compressor. Probably blown.

Can't remember if that is replaceable on this model compressor. Some are potted in the coil.

Check for continuity to ground on the compressor side of the plug. If it is open the fuse is blown.

 

12 Mega-Ohms.

 

That seems way off. Service manual says 3.9-4.3 Ohms.

 

Yeah it's not open circuited, but way high. I'm thinking I've gone far enough though. (Thoughts?)

Regarding a replacement compressor I was going to go with a Denso, but apparently they don't make one for this application any more.

 

I did go ahead and test at the plug using a headlight bulb as a load - the high beam side which draws 5 amps.

It shined nice and bright and steady when the AC was turned "on".

 

Well I confirmed that the thermal fuse is not open. I cleaned the ground connection and I am reading a dead open at the clutch coil. So I just ordered a new compressor.

I notice that the piston replacement compressors (which I ordered) do not have a thermal fuse. Only the scroll compressors do.

 

Ya that's the best way. If your changongin it out yourself have a shop evacuate the system for you ( suck it down) so oil does spray out with 134A when you open the line. Can you turn the compressor hub by hand or is it binding up?

 

Yes the guy at the shop up the street is going to evacuate it for me.

I did not try to turn the compressor itself (should I?). The pulley spins ok with the engine running.

 

Ya... just to be sure the compressor isn't damaged inside and sent shrapnel down the line. Worst case is you charge it up and the condenser is plugged... i usually teplace the condenser as a matter of habit. They are 50 to 70 bucks online. When i do CRV compressor replacement on this model yeari usually go through the front...pinch off coolant hoses and drain the rad then rove the front bumper cover, condenser and rad and the RH headlamp and RH horn ( pass side) for easy access to the lines to the condenser.
there is zero clearance at the bottom to pull it out( changed in 2007) and going through the front, while a bit time consuming, is easier than going from the top, removing the PS pump and Alternator. There is no2f allot of room there.

 

I will check it tomorrow. I don't THINK the compressor itself is bad. It is not the OEM unit - it was replaced at some point before me. And this current failure happened while I was driving. There was no sound. Nothing. It just stopped cooling. So I suspect the clutch coil opened up. But yeah I'm prepared to replace the condenser also.

My plan was to go out the bottom by lowering the sub-frame. Today though I wanted to confirm that I didn't just have a blown thermal so I removed the upper trim cover, cooling fan and expansion bottle. That gave me "sort of" decent access to the compressor. I still plan to take it out the bottom tho. I already have the front splash guard off etc.

It will now sit until the new compressor arrives.

 

This is the way I changed mine. Plenty of vids on YouTube that show how and what to remove. Takes a while but not hard. Be very careful with the 5.5 attach bolt on the AC compressor. Stripping it would be painful.

 

Well I went to install the new compressor and noticed that the pulley is a different size. The belt will not fit.

Have u guys ever run into this?

 

The new compressor does not look like the correct unit. Just replaced mine and that is not what my 2002 looks like.

 

It's actually correct. It bolts up just fine. The pulley is just the wrong size.

I ordered an OE style scroll compressor from a supplier in Arizona. The owner called me to tell me that he recommended I go with the piston replacement instead. I agreed, but told him of my experience with the UAC piston compressor having the wrong size pulley. He checked, and sure enough his had the wrong size pulley also.

So they are just making these piston compressors wrong unfortunately.

 

So new size belt or change the pulley? Is the pulley size difference done on purpose ?

 

I briefly debated going with a bigger belt, but my belt is new and I didn't feel like going through whatever trial and error (and expense) it would take to figure out what size to get.

I can only guess as to why the pulley size is wrong. At the very least, these compressors are being listed as fitting this application when they do not.

My new compressor is "Out For Delivery" today so I'm hoping to be back up and running soon.

 

Well I be dang dog gone darn tootin and I stand corrected. My bad.

 

Well the new compressor is in and the system is cooling well.

After having done this now, I will say that it is easier than I thought it would be. And IMO it is definitely worth the extra 15 minutes or so that it takes to remove the condenser fan and coolant expansion bottle. This greatly improves access to the top of the compressor. And lowering the sub-frame in front is very straight forward.

 

I did pull the condenser fan and coolant bottle. I then removed the 2 or 3 passenger side bolts to the cross frame that holds the hood latch. On the drivers side I just loosened the bolts but did not take them out. This allowed me to reposition this frame piece just enough to get the compressor out and new one in. I did not want to tackle the subframe stuff.

I am getting low 50* / high 40* in 90+ South Texas heat and humidity.

Unfortunately, it will not last long as this new compressor is growling and will not last long....

 

Yes I did the same thing with the upper radiator support etc. But I still took the compressor out the bottom - ha. Guess I didn't need to.

It's only been a couple of days, but this new compressor is very quiet. I remembered a place that I had gotten AC stuff from years ago, and they are still in business. So I went with them. After ordering, the owner called me to confirm etc. and shipped it out the same day.

This is where I got it:

https://www.ackits.com/2002-85835161...pv7-100mm-3573

 

Thanks.