I own a 2005 Civic VP, I bought it off my neighbor who never used it in six months before he moved, he had hit a rock and broke radiator & some a**hole mechanic told him 7K to fix, so he let it sit and never reported it to insurance not wanting it on his record & not wanting it totaled. Im a mechanics apprentice & it literally needed a new radiator & fan that's it. He originally wanted 1K but sold me car 400 & I put 150 into a new radiator & new fans. Done, perfect running car. I then started to replace all transmission (motor) mounts. Each was 20 bucks so about 100 that cost vs 2K from a shop or more. After that I added a new HU a Sony MEX-4300BT, new front 6x5's Kicker KS series, and new 6x9's in rear Kicker CS series, and then bought powered subwoofer. Had best buy install it. Idiots didn't use crimps for bare wire to terminal inputs, they grounded it to my passenger seat rail that's painted, used a painted bolt & washer to ground to a painted surface. So, I removed ground & sounded it to bare metal on car & bolt, bought power block to reduce the 4 gauge power to a 10 gauge because 4, 8 both wouldn't fit. Everything is now securely snug in it's housing. It's RCA are kickers that I feel are trash & should remove & replace with better rcas but my question is this: my audio cuts out when I brake or turn corner, just audio because HU stays on & continues playing & powered sub still puts out the bass but no sound & only when I brake, new battery, no blown fuses & alternator is good. Speakers are only connected by HU they aren't wired to powersub, what good be causing this to happen? It's 600 watt 200 RMS powered Amp, can I use a 1500 watt 1 channel monoblock amp to power sub instead or how can I fix this? Best buy f***ed it up & it's a month until I can get in to see them. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

2005 Civic VP Coupe 1.7L Naturally Aspirated

Speakers Front: two (2) front kicker KS series 6x5's full range 200 Watt peak, 100 watt peak RMSSpeakers Rear: two (2) kicker CS series 6x9's Mid-Range 300 Watt peak & 100 Watt peak RMS

Active Sub: Single 8' Dual Voice Coil with built in amp 600 Watt & 300 RMS that should have enough power to power sub & speakers without issue.

 

Your first mistake was taking it to Best Buy.

Not sure how applying brake pressure will lower the volume of a sound system because the two have nothing in common with one another.

1. What amp are you using to power the speakers?
2. Are you playing at high volume? If so, turn down the gain level on the amp

The sub is one of those "all in one combo" setups. Toss it in the trash and get you a REAL SUBWOOFER with an enclosure built for that sub. Powering the existing sub with another amp is pointless at the moment.

 

Looks like I'm junking it & just gonna buy the 10in kicker. I have a 1500 monoblock amp that should be enough & wires are already ran, so just swap em out I guess. Yes it was at higher volume & I think also the heat where I live plays a part. 124 today with 20% humidity so basically hell.