Well, i'm embarrassed to admit it but i think i seized the engine after a auto to manual swap. I thought I did everything right. Wiring and everything. Guys i need so some help/opinions. My engine starts that's first, but it makes a horrible clank/ grinding sound. I try to turn to engine from the crank pulley but it won't budge. I don't think the flywheel is even turning. Did I forget a connection at all that i'm forgetting? theres alot of loose connection i have from the auto that don't have a place to go right now but all the connections I have connected are plugged in (IACV, all the IM connections) I don't remember unplugging anything else.

I got a manual P2P ECU and even depinned and rerouted the 14p plug at the ecu for the IACV. But the manual ecu didn't have plug B while my auto ecu did. So i left it unplugged. Could that be it? honestly clueless. So any fresh minds that can give me any ideas, I would appreciate it.

 

New ECU after the first start only had one code for the 02 sensor. the sensor on the front of the exhaust manifold has no where to go so i think that's why. But i doubt it would effect the motor like it did.

 

Pull your spark plugs & dump oil down the tubes until theyre mostly filled. Let it sit for a few hours, then wiggle the crank back & forth. Fill it again, let it sit again. In my experience, if the oil doesnt drain out of one of the tubes and you cant turn the crank by hand, it's seized.

 

i liked the idea. but okay so when i finished up doing the swap, I still had the car on jackstands from only the front and then started and it made the horrible noise instantly. Do you think that the incline starved the engine?

It wasnt that much of an incline...

 

Sounds more like a clutch/flywheel issue. Probably should drop the transmission off and have a look.

 

I was going to respond by Ryan beat me to it. I highly doubt ou seized the engine, and instead have an issue with transmission or clutch. Which can prevent the engine from turning freely by hand.

 

Thanks for the little hope guys. I'll drop the trans again tomorrow and update ya'll asap. Just to add: before i even started the swap, i replaced the input shaft bearing and all the gears turned and looked fine. Shifts through gears (without the car on obviously) and the wheels rotate too even you turn them by hand through every gear. Not that it matters right now. But i'll check the clutch and flywheel, maybe i fudged something up.

I didnt know the clutch/fw can prevent the engine from turning over. Maybe thats why it starts fine but makes a horrendous sound. Should add that there was a burn smell too.

 

Before you go too far remove the accessory belts to eliminate something on the accessory drive.

Also pull the starter off and check to see if that freed up the crank before dropping the transmission off.

Start small, work your way up.

 

hey ryan! i took the starter out and the engine turns nicely!
Do you guys think that the starter is bad? or my flywheel and clutch set up is misaligned? The starter is new, though admittingly is a cheapo. What should the next diagnosing steps be?

 

it's not likely that the starter would freeze at the moment you changed the transmission. the burning smell was likely your clutch dragging which is why your engine wouldn't turn over.

 

figured! i'll pull the trans out then and see if anything was grinding or rubbing at all.

 

did you also change the flywheel? could there be a mismatch of the
flywheel teeth and your starter?

 

You did get a starter for a manual transmission correct?

 

yeah bought a new clutch and flywheel set. as for the starter, pretty much just bought a regular manual civic starter.

 

Right is the one pulled from auto and left is manual. above pic is the teeth from manual.

 

did you count the number of teeth and compare the two gears?

 

between starters? they both have 9 teeth

 

Checked FW and clutch. Everythings solid, no wiggling or anything to me. Could it def be the starter then?

 

Also ive heard that sometimes bad starters stay on even after the car is fired up causing the grinding sounds and such.

In fhe ignition key lock, ive removed the piston that locks the key in the ignition.

 

Reinstall the starter and see if you can turn the engine by hand. Then start the engine with the starter and turn it back off. Does the engine continue to turn by hand?

 

okay major update. it's not the starter. i think it's the trans. i installed the trans again without putting on the starter and tried turning the engine by hand, it was turning fine with compression but then it stopped. i go reverse on the crank and it stops again. i keep turning the crank both ways and the distance between each turn is getting smaller compared to when it stops. so that points to a certain direction right? any ideas?

didn't even try starting it after that

 

i'm thinking either the flywheel or pressure plate is makign contact with something. sucks but i think imma have to drop the trans again lol.

also for the record i bought and exedy 08022 clutch and pressure plate and exedy FWHDC01 flywheel.

 

fellas it was my fault. i think i installed the flywheel wrong and the pressure plate grinded on one of the bell housing bolts. what a learning curve. geez louise.

 

That looks like a legit explanation to your issue.

Now why is the pressure plate not sitting correctly? Was the bolt flange pulled down tight to the face of the flywheel?

 

It all boils down to that issue now. I took out the flywheel and clutch plate and re torqued them again just to make sure i did it right. 87 ft lb for the flywheel and 19 ftlb for then PP.