Hi,

I have been long time Honda Civic user. 1997 Civic DX, MT. Owned from 2000 (80K miles) to 2013 (257K miles).
Engine blew by Somerset PA while driving from Washington DC to Chicago.
Next, I got 1997 Civix LX, AT in 2014.
I am new to this forum, so please take that into consideration .
So, the issue I have - subframe completely rotted out on passenger side (I think A/C condensation contributed
to it greatly). So I went ahead and ordered on eBay a subframe taken from a Florida car plus all the brackets, bushings and
bolts. Simultaneously I decided to replace rack and pinion assembly since the old one was leaking. I installed the subframe
with reman. rack and pinion in it. Now, I am failing to connect high pressure power steering line. That is, I thought I aligned
everything right, started turning - it turned even became tight and then .... just fell out again. At that point I stopped fearing that
I cross threaded the port on the rack&pinion. Got a M14 x 1.5 bolt just to check if I can thread it in. I can. So I pray port is fine.
Assuming than the fitting is bad I took out the power steering line and tried to connect it to old steering rack - no go. I can make 1, may be
2 turns and then it is just stuck. A bolt goes in and out by hand. The fitting does not look bad to a "naked eye".
So this is the story. Now a few questions.

I wanted to get a new power steering line, but the ones available in store do not have a socket for some sensor that was
attached to the original one. What is that sensor and what happens if I forgo it. Will I get a CEL?

The reman. rack came with two small O-rings. The instruction says "take out old O-rings put in new O-rings). I did not see any old
O-rings in the old rack ports. Are these O-rings required? They are kind of small, They would need to be perfectly aligned and given how hard it is
to get to the thing on the car I can never be sure they are not just blocking the flow. Or do I install O-ring on the flared end of the line? (original one did not have a O-ring on it).

Honda shop manual tells that subframe bolts need to be replaced without any explanation why. Is it a big deal? What's up with that? I just
used the old bolts I got on eBay with the subframe. I did not re-use my own bolts as their condition was much worse than the ones I got.

Generally, is there some guide / strategy / special tool on how to attach power steering line? It is impossible to reach with fingers to get it started. Space is so
tight that I think wrench has less than a quarter turn available.... And at the same time you need to push it into the port to get it started.

Many thanks.

 

Typically fluid based fittings are tapered by design. This is to make sure they seal and hold higher pressure. Teflon tape or teflon thread fluid is a good idea for these. They help lubricate for both install as well and removal of these fittings.

Compare the fitting to the bolt, you will see it starts the same size and towards the base of the fitting it should be wider. This might help ease your mind when installing and may explain the feel you are experiencing.

 

I know the fitting OP speaks of. It sucks. Likely the hardest fastener to get at on these cars.

Maybe try loosening the subframe bolts and lowering it down a little to be able to get a little more wrench in there. There’s not much advice to give. It just sucks.

 

Do the flare nut wrenches help at all. Like the ones you use on the brake fittings?

 

Definitely. At the are minimum when you’re trying to break loose or apply final torque.

 

Get them shorties too.

 

Guys, thanks for all the advice! This is what I ended up doing. Ordered high pressure PS hose from eBay. It came yesterday. Today took the newly installed subframe (with reman. rack in it) out. Once out, attached the hose. It is easy that way. Then put subframe back while carefully threading the hose up towards the pump. It worked out nicely. I did use Teflon tape for piece of mind. Just finished the job and test drove. Steering wheel is off-center. Will fix tomorrow by disconnecting steering column and re-aligning in so that it is horizontal with wheels pointing straight. Then to the alignment shop. Almost done. Dog tired.
Tthis is old rotten subframe:



I used hydraulic jack (low profile with Daytona written on it) and a hardwood dolly (the kind used to move furniture) which I got for under $10 from Harbor Freight. Put subframe on that dolly, then jacked it up slowly.