1998 civic dx automatic: just got this a few months ago and brakes not great, pulling to one side so I am checking the slide pins first and already lined up the drivers sides, they were pretty hunky and non-slippery but I cleaned them up and silicone greased them...but...I am realizing they are not the way they are in all the videos in YouTube: everyone seems to say 12mm bolts but my top ones are under a cap and are definitely recessed 10mm bolts...you need the skinny socket to even get in there to reach them, some of my 10mm sockets are too fat! And on one side the cap twisted and pried off easy leash but the other side seems to have a cap with a small pin and washer on the end...i think this may have been replaced as it looks...less rusty. I wasn’t sure how to remove that and figured I should better check. I am only getting brakes on the right side front (rears work) and I think the piston is seized in the drivers side caliper. Couldn’t get it to move much when I put a c clamp to it with a block of wood. The wood dented...but I thought it might be a liquid wrench spray and try again...
thanks for the insight on my mystery calipers...I want to lube up the slide pin on the right and hopefully do some work on both sides to make it safer.

 

I am assuming you don't have have ABS and the non abs front brake caliper does not have the top 12mm bolt on the top. It just swings up. But if the piston is seized, you might just want to replace entire caliper.

Just a basic question, did you either open the master cylinder cap or open the bleeder when you push the piston?

 

Thanks, I did open the master cap. The thing I was wondering about before was just a cap over the slide bolt which is recessed. It had a weird rubber tab on the end which the other one didn’t have so I got nervous! It is a 10 mm deep socket reachable bolt. Looks like one of the rubber bolt coverings (bushing?) is a bit off on one end. I think I want to try to get both calipers off and see if I can get more movement from the pistons. I think the right one is moving but I couldn’t get this one off the other day. But car pulls to the right so I assume this one is moving some. I lubed both slide pins and it seemed to help a bit on the “bad side”. Was wondering, is there a pic of what the piston.position is when compressed? I was thinking of pulling the calipers and putting a block of wood in there (where the rotor and pads were) and then replacing the master cap and pushing on the brake. If the wood is almost fitting I figure I can use the hydraulics to assist with moving the piston back and forth. Maybe pulling back the rubber seal on the piston and putting in some liquid wrench or I just heard brake fluid in there too, maybe with a a tip?
im hoping to get these to move a bit more as I’m not sure I can replace calipers...too nervous! Thanks for the reply.

 

I’m all by myself: how would I tell if it’s the front or rear brakes that are not working as well on one side. I assumed fronts as rears are pretty basic drums...

 

Well, what you could do is drive a bit and brake hard a few times and feel for heat on the disc's. If one side is much hotter then the other it would at least tell you which side is acting up. Then again, the colder side can still have a stuck caliper or slider preventing it from engaging properly. The drums are almost never a problem. I run those too and they always just work lol. I wanted to do a disc swap but honestly the drums work so well and are so simple I don't even think I will swap.

I had a stuck piston in my front right caliper and just replaced it with a OEM new one (they still sell them here) and it works fine now with Brembo drilled rotors and matching pads.

 

You have the 9.5" non abs caliper, most of the youtube videos shows the 10.3" rotor caliper, those caliper has the 12MM bolt on both the top and bottom. The 9.5" rotor caliper only has the 12mm at the bottom. There is ton of how to on the web on how to find sticky caliper, but easiet is just to check the temp of each rotor.

 

Thank you, I will check the temperature. Then compressingbthe piston, or trying to budge it if it is out, is that where some liquid wrench sorayed just under the rubber seal can help? And the c clamp or I have seen people use two c clamps to apply more even pressure. One side I couldn’t even pivot it up, the caliper that is, and I thought that was the better working side...but I will try this morning before the heat wave rolls in . Thank you for your help!

 

Ok test done: BOTh sides very hot, felt like brakes we’re not releasing. Got home, pulled both wheels and the left side was way hotter, even lug. Lots were too hot to hold for long. Tried to push pistons in on both sides with a c clamp and it worked on right side, then put a block of wood in there and pumped brakes and repeated a few times. Piston slid with clamp but never by just hand pressure (going back in) even with brake reservoir cap removed. Right side...ugh! Finally peeled boot back a bit and sprayed some on blaster under boot then it did move a little. Then it went further but...now it won’t come back out?! I blocked up the right side so all pressure would go to left but still no dice. Looks like rubber seal is bulging a bit...not sure if this is brake fluid or maybe the PB? PB blasting the bleeder screw and the bolts for the caliper as I am guessing...might have to try to replace that part but..,maybe if it isn’t engaging at all I could drive on it to work and back mostly hiway...until next weeeknd and maybe check on it and try to expand it a few more times this week...pads are worn, on left side the outer pad is very thin, inner much thicker,

other note: removed lower slide bolt to pivot up caliper (with much effort and trying to pry caliper in on both sides) and then when I was C-clamping, it slid off the other slide bolt?! What does the bolt in the recessed cap do for the upper slide bolt? I am guessing we need to lube both the skinny bolt and the wider tube part as that seems more important for sliding with this style caliper...the 10mm top and 12mm bottom, with the top bolt recessed under a little (rusty) cap...
thanks again!

 

I am realizing when I got the left caliper piston to move I should have done a little in a little out and not crammed it in there...I am guessing I did some damage to a part that needed a bit more thoughtful care. It was dark, working with flashlights if that’s any excuse...but I am nervous of the rusted connectors in replacing a caliper. I read that the brake hose could be faulty and not allowing fluid back into the system so I am spraying the bleeder valve and brushing it with an old toothbrush and thinking I will try to crack it and see if the bulging seal goes down and what else happens. Big hope: fluid in bulge goes down and piston moves when pedal pressed. I know this is not a Disney movie but maybe...?!

 

Brakes much better on the “good side” , releasing after engaging but non existent on driver side front, so I have been using the handbrake to supplement when braking at speed or anytime really...
I figure maybe they will loosen up, will keep spraying the penetrating oil on bleeder valve and see if I can bleed it a bit someday...weekend?!

 

Are new calipers expensive where you are? I didn't even bother trying to free my stuck piston and bleeder. A new (3rd party) caliper for my EK was like €70 with shipping and tax so really couldn't be bothered especially since the other side already had a newer caliper that was nice and clean and free.

I'm using drilled Brembo rotors and matching pads and just the stock drums in the back with new "pads" and brakes are great lol.

 

I was hoping they would free up mostly because...the brake hose connector is pretty rusty and I have never shanked a caliper before...
but there is always a first time I guess...how do you stop all the brake fluid leaking out when you take out the banjo bolt? I think someone said if you use a stick and jam the brake pedal to the floor it blocks up the master cylinder so it will leak some but then stop and I imagine you can put a piece of rubber in there to block it up while you do your swapping? Do you have to send back the used caliper when you buy one online? Is there anything to look for as far as quality online too? Thank you

 

Make sure when you pull off the banjo to zip tie it to the strut or upper control arm as high as it'll go, it won't leak much. Also pre fill the new caliper with brake fluid through the fitting hole, Saves a lot of time bleeding. Might need a new crush washer as well for the banjo, I didn't replace it as I didn't order one and it seals but yeah, luck may vary on that one.

The caliper I'm using is a Ashuki brand OEM replacement. It looked identical to the one I pulled and works fine.

Obviously there's a quality difference in brands but for calipers I usually just go for the cheap OEM replacement ones. Brembo, Zimmermann or Ferodo calipers are actually surprisingly cheap here so maybe just get some of those if your worried about quality.

 

Thanks, I managed to get the piston to move but I think the penetrating oil destroyed the dust boot on the piston, so it is not pulling back and the rotor is very hot when I stool on both sides?? So I was debat8ng trying to pull both rotors (ambitious) and try to replace the seals and rings. Trying to find a video where they show how it all goes together… it I should best make sure the bleeder opens first as it is very rusty and if that snaps…gotta replace the caliper, right? Super nervous. Saw calipers at the auto parts places around here for $65 after you give them your core, and online for as low as $27. I’m kinda nervous about this job as the parts look very sketchy, such as the rubber hose and where it connects to the metal brake line looks like fuzzy rusty coral…I feel like I’m gonna mess it up…but maybe that is just the ghost of my older brother talking…

the metal ring that holds the dust boot in place, how does that get put onto the car (if I go rebuild attempt)?
thanks!