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For the stock manifold it's good to polish the insides to as smooth as possible right? For turbo. I have an extra spare IAB plate so I could stack them. What should I do for a stock block DIY ported head h22?
Just bought a mini ram and might run my to4e or buy a new .82 a/r bigger turbo. Should I stack two IAB plates and gut them? Like blacktrax...I've done some searching and still not sure. Or 1 plate, or no plate. I believe the more plenum the better for high end so two stacked gutted plates is what I'm thinking and completely polish the inside of the manifold. Opinions?
Hmm so should I leave it stock? Is there a way to hookup the IAB's with Neptune on a p28 in an Integra? Or should I delete IAB? I believe it's good for low end tq. Wont porting out the mani help with some efficiency? Or just complete waste of time? lol.
Is it reasonable to aim for around 400 with e85 and low 300's with 93?
Up to you if you want to keep IABs. You can run them straight to vacuum without the black box and skip the ECU controlled portion. You need a P72 or P28/equivalent with IAB functionality to allow the ECU to control it.
It wasn't worth it for me. I just deleted them with a spacer. I cut out all the webbing and just did a quick smoothing of the walls with a carbide bit too. It's been fine, even on an F20B. Car doesn't struggle out of boost.
I would keep it at 350whp or less, regardless of fuel. Anything more is just a gamble if you drive it often. If you want to fiddle with boost by gear/rpm you can get a little more out of it in the top while keeping the torque at safe levels.
Ok sounds like running a gutted spacer will be fine. I do have a MAC EBC which I've used before.
HMM would it be beneficial to take out the pistons and re-ring it with wider gaps? I heard these FRM walls don't need a hone. You just slap new rings and/or pistons and run it. I'm guessing stock rings run tight gaps which will crack ringlands so the limit is 350. I was basing my guess on max hp on the highest stock block thread https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...al%2A-2036623/
They're well into the 400's and mid 500's! Ok maybe they won't last long. One claimed to make it to 27k. My cyl walls looked great last time I checked. I'll disassemble the engine again soon. Stock headbolts max hp? I know ARP's are good.
I've run stock head bolts up to 400 no problems. Your mileage may vary with all of it. Can't apply other examples to yours. Some engines will make crazy power without ever being opened, most others pop way sooner.
If you're gonna take it apart and re-ring it, might as well get some Nippon Racing cast pistons with their matching forged rods. The pistons are cast but made from a better alloy more suitable for boost. They drop right in, assuming you can find them in stock. And yes, opening the gaps some will help.
Alright I think I'll stick with stock bolts cause I'm pretty sure they're not TTY anyways so you can reuse them. Can't seem to find the nippon pistons in 87 so I'm thinking now to just re-ring it and check the bearings and such. I'll also have to check the oil pump clearances. Porting the pump would only be necessary for high rpm circuit racing or extreme high redlines right? I know the stock gears are sintered metal and brittle but I'm not trying to fork over 400 for new billet gears. Lots of ppl are vouching for the OEM pump. I'm not going to ask for a crazy high redline. What's the highest I should go with stock valvetrain and rods?
So the only decent rings I found are Hastings and NPR. Hastings > NPR? I've used NPR rings before and they were thinner than OEM. They also didn't have as high of compression. I broke the top ring in an NPR set and replaced it with an OEM and that one cylinder had higher compression.
Never had issues with any H/F oil pump. The gears tend to break if you run a solid crank pulley because a lot of vibration gets transferred into them. I have ported them before but didn't really notice any difference. There's not really much material to remove, just enough to smooth the edges/flow.
Stock valvetrain will outlive the rods and/or ringlands. Keep it under 8500 for Type-S springs or 7800-8000 for the normal variants. Every 1 psi of boost you run is effectively equivalent to 1 psi of valve spring pressure lost on the intake springs so keep that in mind.
Rods...heh. Hard to say. You gotta keep them happy because they are fickle, lackluster things. The lower you are under 300wtq, the better chance the engine has of living. It's important to limit the torque in the low end/midrange.
Rings, I use hastings on stock rebuilds typically. Never had any issues. Other people will have different opinions.
My block says H22A. Is this a JDM version? I bought it from a dude who crashed his EK. The cam gears were broken when I got it. I've never ran it. Would it be worth to get Supertech springs? https://www.ebay.com/itm/174731311985
Newer LMA's from h22a4 will require a shim right? https://www.ebay.com/itm/333894060611 .040" washer. Quote from another thread "$1 for the stainless washers at home depot. They are #10 and come in a plastic package with almost 15 of them." Should I even upgrade these if my LMA's seem fine? I pushed them and they didn't stick.
Stock pan is ok for H2b? I know it doesn't sit right but will work?
H22 manifold for turbo
