My current issue is that my caster is off from an alignment. Any advice on what to do is appreciated.

 

Caster as well as Camber is not adjustable on these cars. If your Caster is off, it usually means the car has been in a fender bender and the unibody frame has taken some damage.

The fix would be a frame table and straighten the unibody frame to factory spec.

 

You might be able to shift the subframe a degree to fix that negative caster but to get it right you'll need that thingamajingie that tomcat mentioned.

 

I think I will call around tomorrow and see what this kind of service cost locally.

 

Well lowest quote i got was 700 dollars to pull the frame. Looks like I got some decisions to make, with 1.4 degrees of caster difference to fix I am wondering if the repair will significantly reduce the chassis strength.

 

I'd go over that subframe with a fine tooth comb looking for any damage before I go to a frame machine. The car is designed so that the subframe bends before the frame itself.

Also as Tony pointed out, there's some amount of movement available by shifting the subframe around. Had to do it from time to time on these cars even when they were practically new. I would try a dealer alignment or a dedicated alignment shop over the local tire shop alignment techs - You need an expert instead of someone who just knows how to turn the toe links until he sees green and ships it.

 

I am gonna get up under the car this week and look for any bent parts or bad bushings before I even think of going that route. My question is would moving the subframe without loosening anything else mess up my alignment or just change the caster? How would you go about this loosening just the side that needs to change and push it while tightening down the bolts or loosen all 4 subframe bolts for this? I also have a shim kit on the way for the lower control arms. Frame shop will be a last resort exploring all options.

 

Good side

Bad side I think i have found the issue

 

^ I'd say that's pretty suspect.

It's done on the rack as part of the alignment process. You do the subframe shift first, then the rest of the alignment.

You really can't just loosen one side. It has to be able to move. The way I would do it was to loosen the subframe to chassis bolts, then bring an extra coworker or two over with a few long prybars. Use the prybars to (gently) shift the subframe around until happy, keeping an eye on the camber at the same time. Then while holding the subframe in place you have one of those extra sets of hands zip the bolts back in with an impact and torque to spec. Usually took a couple of tries. Then set the toe. There's not a lot of movement in there but it's often enough to get back in spec. It's not a cure for a bent part though - You may want to find a better subframe before you go any further, or at least get an expert opinion since swapping the subframe is not a small task either.

We used to have to do it a lot on the 98-02 gen Accords/Odysseys under warranty to cure pull complaints (and sometimes with the owner sitting in the car after you realize they were >300 lbs lol). Less frequently on the 96-00 Civics.

 

Oh Joy!!!

 

I am thinking I will go this route until I can get all the parts I need.