Hi al....new Honda owner here.....gm convert......my question is this:. I recently purchased a 1999 Accord Ex that is CLEARLY a JDM model, the vin code begins with J and the vehicle itself is clearly labeled as "Manufactured in Japan".....however, when I started work on the engine, I noticed that it is an F23A1?!?!?! How can this be (other than it is not the original engine for this car). Did ANY JDM models come with the A1? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.

 

the engine should have a VIN plate riveted to the back side of the block near the oil filter. If it doesn't match the VIN of the car, you can still make note of it and decode to see where it is from.

 

If I have read my history correctly, there were plenty of Accords produced with the J (which I forget if that means produced in Japan or intended for Japan) but sold in the US during those years. It's one of the things you have to check when you buy parts, as there can be slight differences in items on the car. I wouldn't say that makes it a "JDM" car (in my head that is a car that was originally intended for Japan that someone brought to another country, such as the US or Australia). But, as far as I can tell, they all have the F23A as that was the engine for the US market.

Many people believe that the J-VIN cars are superieor builds but I haven't really seen anything to support that theory yet. I just know the only difference between the F23 and F23A is all external differences, such as exhaust manifolds because of the emissions differences.

So the short answer is you got a Japan-manufactured car but it was intended for the US market. Just always doublecheck when buying parts that there is nothing different.

 

Thanks so much for the info guys. I don't know if it makes it superior or not either, I do know that, at least for those years, the japanese steel was superior to that used by GM, as my other project car is a 2004 Cavalier, and almost ALL the sheet metal on it was rusted out when I got it, however, the Honda from 5 years prior (1999), has NOT ONE BIT of rust, and BOTH were Midwest cars! Crae!

 

I agree that these particular cars seem to do decently with regards to rust. I don't have any on mine, and it was originally a Florida car so I know it got wet a lot.

What one usually finds dead on these cars at this age is lights like interior button lights, power locks need replacement, dash lights might be dim.

Of course the other thing one usually sees occurs as well: replace the shocks, lower and upper control arms, valve cover leaks.

I also tend to replace the stereo as well, since I want bluetooth/hand free calling.

 

Yes, the valve cover gaskets are definitely leaking, as was the vtec selonoid gasket, which I just replaced last weekend. Also, the evap canister shut valve needs to be replaced as well. Surprisingly, the tranny is doing relatively well for the MAXA of this generation, from all I've read, they tend to die early, but more ne feels fine. Just to be safe I'm doing a fluid change with Honda ATF next weekend as well, but all in all, the vehicle is in real good shape for being 23 years old. I can't wait to start doing some mods to her. And as far as body styles go, personally, I think this 6th gen is the best, most classy yet sporty looking of the accords. Thanks again all for the info on the engine.

 

Yes, I should have mentioned the vtec solenoid, I also not long ago replaced the gasket (it was leaking oil but it worked fine).

When it comes to mods, I'll offer my thoughts: don't waste time on horsepower like exhaust and intake, there are zero horsepower gains in those "typical" types of mods. Although it's not something I would necessarily do, I can completely get some nice looking wheels, maybe lowering it a hair, and sway bars or handling improvements. But that's it.

For the transmission, Honda fluid is good, but consider I've found MaxLife to also work really well in these cars. I switched over awhile ago and the car seemed to shift smoother than with regular Honda fluid. Also...and again you probably know this, but change the fluid 3 times to actually get all the old stuff out. Generally, I change the fluid, drive for a week, change the fluid, drive for a week, change the fluid. Otherwise there is lots left of the old stuff if there is only one change.

 

What about adding an external transmission filter, like Magnefine? Are they of any benefit?

 

I added a genuine Magnefine 3/8" external filter on mine post-radiator cooler. I cut it open during my first change and I did see a bit of shavings in there, so it clearly was doing its job.

After that, added it to 3 of my other vehicles for additional peace of mind, without any problems. They are not the cheapest external trans filter, but considering you change it every 20,000 miles or something, why not?