Hey everyone,

I'm in the process of planning a restoration build on a DB8 JDM type R. Currently the car is in really poor shape, so I'm going to be doing a restoration from the ground up. The car hs

• B20 block
• B18 Type R Head
• ITR Transmission (if you can even call it that)

My goal is to make around 230 - 250 Whp with crappy pump gas. Now, I wouldn't say money is no object, but I'm trying to do thing right the first time, while still keeping things reasonable. So, with that said, I'm looking for feedback on my proposed build.

• Do you think it will hit the mark on WHP?
• Is there anything you think I don't need?
• Is there anything you think I could swap out for more cost effective versions, while still getting the performance & reliability?
• Is there anything missing?

On to the list!

ENGINE & EXHAUST

• Skunk 2 Pro Camshaft
• SKunk 2 Pro Series Valve Springs & Retainers
• Skunk 2 Pro Camgears
• Supertech Performance Intake & Exhaust Valves with Nitride Coating
• Supertech Valve Seals, Keeps & Locks
• Skunk 2 Pro Intake Manifold + 70mm Throttle Body
• Wiseco Pistons
• Manley Connecting Rods
• ACL Bearings
• Moroso Engine Breather
• ITR Oil Pump
• ITR Water Pump
• Golden Eagle Block Guard
• Golden 85mm Eagle Head Gasket
• ATI Harmonic Balancer
• Gates Racing Timing Belt
• PLM Tri Header
• Spoon Exhaust (N1)
• Spoon Exhaust B Pipe
• Spoon Sub N1 Silencer
• Mishimoto Radiator
• Mishimoto Fan Shroud
• Skunk 2 Lost Motion Assembly
• Spoon Magnetic Drain Plug Set
• AEM 30-0300 X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller Gauge
• AEM 30-0301 X-Series Pressure Gauge, Black, 52mm
• B&M CommandFlo Fuel Pressure Regulator
• Bosch EV14 550 Injectors
• AEM Cold Air Intake

DRIVETRAIN

• SynchroTech Carbon Rebuild Kit
• Fidanza 7.5lb Flywheel
• AI4-HDG6 - HD/Race Sprung 6 Pad
• Spoon Shift Linkage Bushing
• HardRace Front Sway Bar Bushing
• HardRace Upper Control Arm Bushings

SUSPENSION

• BC Racing Coilovers
• Tires
• Rays 57DR 17" 5x114
• JDM Type R RHD Steering Rack
• Hard Race Suspension Bushing set

Thanks for the help! Really excited about this project, so I want to make sure I do it right!

 

The Skunk2 Pro cams you get should be the stage 2.

Swap Skunk2 Pro Intake for their Ultra Street. 70mm throttle is still ok.

Aim for 12.5:1 on pistons.

I 100% do not recommend boring the engine out to 85mm, even if you're on sleeves. You should do the minimum bore to get a clean seat on the piston rings.

Make sure your exhaust is at least 2.5". I'd also recommend the 1320 SMSP big tube header over any PLM garbage.

 

What would you recommend on the pistons?

 

Stick with the tried and true companies, like CP, Wiseco, JE, etc. I would simply just re-hone to get the surface clean on the piston walls.
Use 93 octane or slightly higher for this power level goal. In addition to swapping out the radiator, Spoon exhaust system & silencer, (avoid the the B&M regulator altogether), and watch the welds on the PLM Tri-header.

200-220whp is a more realistic goal. 250whp, you gotta change out a lot.

 

This is what I was thinking. With CNC porting... maybe you get into the 230's.

 

Why do you say drop the B&M regulator?

are you saying no need for ANY regulator? Or just not the B&M?

 

Increased fuel pressure isn't necessary UNLESS your performance target is very close when you run out of injector duty cycle... then increasing the base/static fuel pressure provides a higher ceiling for your fuel injectors. I have had great success with B&M fuel pressure regulator modifiers for years... I haven't seen any of these in years. I am surprised that they still make them.

Shodan, what do you dislike about them ?

 

I don't like their failure rate, and the fact that it doesn't adjust fuel pressure below the pressure in the line if needed. It only raises it. Now, I admit, I haven't used them for a great many years, (to say they may have improved would be a nice thing to hear). But since 2002-2015, nothing but issues for me with those damned things. They only work with certain sized lines, threads strip causing leaks, and again, the functionality reminds me of the old VORTECH Rising rate regulators of old.

Why take that chance when even the stock regulator is more reliable than adding that thing? So, IMHO, stay stock, or get a real regulator. (Sorry... I mean, something other than B&M, and no eBay, please)

In addition, For Skunk2 Pro 2 camshafts, Don't use the standard 70lbs seat pressure valvesprings and retainers. Get something a little higher. I believe the Ultra series uses about 80-85lbs seat pressure.