So my car just failed inspection because the SRS light never comes on. After taking apart the dash and unplugging the yellow SRS cables, the light still didn't come on. I decided it might be the bulb before I go any further, but when I'm looking at the back of the cluster, there's no bulb that lines up with the SRS light. So what do I replace for the SRS to see if it was the bulb that was the issue? Another helpful thing would be knowing what size the bulb is. . . if there even is a bulb.

 

There is a replaceable bulb. It is located in part # 16, SRS Unit.

Since it has a black base, it should be the same bulb size as the other black base bulbs on the cluster. Honda Part No.: 35505-SA5-003 or 35506-SA5-003 - Bulb (14V 1.4W).

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-...omponents.html

 

Wanted to toss this out there. Diode Dynamics are a great option for led replacements! Not OEM but I've used them quite a bit with zero problems. Though thier bulbs can be almost "too" bright.

 

Well guys I found the issue! After all this teardown I realized that it had its own connector and when I plugged it in lo and behold it turned on! So the bulb didn't need replacing thankfully. Unfortunately however, now it doesn't turn OFF. I tried resetting the SRS light, and even after the two flashes it goes back to constantly on. Everything was plugged back in, but light stays on. My horn also isn't working so maybe the SRS ECU is busted or something else is broken.

 

Have you removed the air bag from the steering wheel to see if the horn connectors are connected and the yellow SRS air bag plug? could have a bad air bag which is scary..

 

I did not. I went through this work because my car failed VA inspection, and at the end of the day I returned it back to the inspection station so they could take a further look at it. I will reply tomorrow when there's an answer from them what needs to be replaced. I was comfortable taking the dash apart but I'm still a noob at wiring so I wasn't confident enough to mess with airbags and risk an explosion on myself. So I'll update this post when I get some news tomorrow.

 

Hey guys I'm back in a new day. The mechanic said I needed a new clock spring, but since this looks like it's been gone through from the previous owner before, I decided to continue on the teardown. I got the clock spring disconnected and found this:

So in that tape there's two wires: a red + black, and a blue + white wire. Which one is which? I think the red + black is for the horn, but I'm not sure how to wire them up since there's a ribbon like cable and the horn wiring is also through that connection.

Here is a close up of the wiring:

 

You need to find a wiring diagram for the year chassis you have to see what that harness plugs into, the 1 wire plug your holding should plug into the inside of the steering wheel horn contact prong. I'm not sure where that cut harness/2wires plugs into..

 

Weekend update, I have ordered a used clock spring from Ebay, hopefully it's not an issue that it's a cruise control spring, but I don't see why having the extra pins would be an issue. I decided to test voltages on the clockspring I have, and I'm pretty sure it is indeed a bad spring. The car's connector was sending voltages, but none of the pins on the clock spring were outputting voltage, including the horn which I know would be 12V constant, because how else would you honk when the car is off? Anyways, the new clock spring will be here sometime next weekend, and I'll come back with more updates. The two wires that are cut don't have any power going through them, so I'm not sure what they're for. Still haven't found any wiring diagrams for what I'm trying to find.

 

Those cut wires are a problem. If I knew where they originate I could help diagnose. The horn not working is a flag for me.

 

MAke sure you install the new clock spring correctly or else soon as you make your first hard turn or U turn your gonna break the tape.. There's a certain way you set the clock spring by rotating it a few times on each side to 0 it out.

 

The wht/blu and blk/red wires go to a solenoid that's screwed to side of the ignition switch lock assembly. It should be where the 1 o'clock position is, on the white circle in your pic. Your's is missing. if you look up pics of these ignition switch lock assemblies you'll see it. it's a rectangular box, goldish in color, and it connects to that silver "fork" looking arm. I believe it locks your key inside the ignition switch in certain situations(like when your automatic's shift selector is in drive.).
As wun said, make sure the clock spring is centered and your tires are straight, before you install it. A centered eg Civic clock spring will turn like 1 and 3/4 turn, clockwise or counter clock wise, when centered. You know to stop turning when you feel a little resistance. I'm actually about to replace one of these in my car due to an error made when I installed my rebuilt rack and pinion .

 

Hey guys new update! New clock spring came in and it works! I was able to turn off the SRS light and it completely went away even after another cycle + fully turning over the engine! Now the only thing remaining is the horn. Unfortunately, this new spring did not send power to the wiring for the horn, so I kept investigating. I took off the bumper and removed the horn, and it looks like my voltage is super low for the horn wiring. (Picture is of "right" measurement) On the left side of the plug, I'm getting 0.7V-.10V, and the other side was properly grounded, I checked. On the right side, I was getting 0.2V-0.3V.

Just to narrow down some more, I hooked up the horn directly to the battery to make sure it worked. After directly blasting myself and causing a paper clip to get so hot and melt in my engine bay, I can confirm the horn does indeed work. Probably accelerated my tinnitus, but now I can say something with the horn wiring on all ends is broken, and I'll have to keep looking. If anyone has any ideas on where to first look it'd be appreciated. Thanks for the help so far! SRS down, horn to go.